Im trying to decide witch would be better for street/track, If anyone could please help

 

well after reading alot on the forums, some main highlights for koni/gc are custom spring rates avaliable and lifetime warrenty. that's the reason why i went with the koni/gc combo. the BC racing spec damper seems to pricy for what it's worth

 

I don't know that the BC's are that much more expensive. If you're running more than 400 or 500 lb springs you need to get the Koni's revalved or get the SSP3 units they just started selling mainstream and are considerably more expensive than the standard units. The cost difference between the revalved or SSP3 Koni's and BC then is almost nil. And anyone seriously tracking or autocrossing will exceed those spring rate limits the standard Koni's have anyway. It then comes down to personal preference of which brand you'd prefer running.

 

crazy chicken is right


Modified by slammed_93_hatch at 10:00 PM 6/2/2005

 

mayhaps you're confusing BC with JIC?

 

What he said.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mayhaps you're confusing BC with JIC?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Buddy Club USA has the absolute best customer service i have ever experienced

Anytime i have had a problem with my BC RSD they have gladly replaced and fixed the dampers labor free

Personally, i have had no trouble with contacting them and service was fast and reliable as promised

I have all praise for BC USA

 

any personal expiriance's with BC coilovers

 

how about the TEIN typeRS dampers

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTeC4TheChildren &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Buddy Club USA has the absolute best customer service i have ever experienced

Anytime i have had a problem with my BC RSD they have gladly replaced and fixed the dampers labor free

Personally, i have had no trouble with contacting them and service was fast and reliable as promised

I have all praise for BC USA </TD></TR></TABLE>

could you give more info on this...like a contact name and phone number?

buddy club usa hasnt responded to ANY emails i sent them about rebuilds.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JOHN WAYNE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

could you give more info on this...like a contact name and phone number?

buddy club usa hasnt responded to ANY emails i sent them about rebuilds.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hello, My Name is Ray, I am currently employed here at Buddy Club USA. I would like to express my apologies on the delay with email response. It is alot easier to contact us here by phone, (909) 923 - 9188. Please feel free to call us at anytime you need assistance.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTeC4TheChildren &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Buddy Club USA has the absolute best customer service i have ever experienced

Anytime i have had a problem with my BC RSD they have gladly replaced and fixed the dampers labor free

Personally, i have had no trouble with contacting them and service was fast and reliable as promised

I have all praise for BC USA </TD></TR></TABLE>

We really appreciate your praise as we try to uphold the most professional approach toward our customers as we can. Glad we could satisfy you.

 

909-923-9188 ask for Albert

he has gladly helped me a few times, just remember these guys are busy sometimes and may take a few days to get responses out

most of the time albert will listen to your case then get your email and from a few minutes to a day or two he will tell you exactly what you need to do to get ur parts repaired.

I sent out my BC for repairs and within a week got them back... they payed for return shipping and even gave me some BC "stickers" if you like that stuff

just be courteous and most people will gladly comply
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the Buddy Club Racing Spec Damper is a very hard riding suspension set up

i am currently running 8kF /12kR on my crx but due to the relatively light weight of my chassis this can contribute to the harsh ride

even though the rates are very stiff the damper can easily handle these rates and the ride is not "bouncy" and dampens farely well

i havent gotten a chance to take these to the track and get a feel for them at max potential, so i cant comment on how they really feels when pushed to their limits

ive had a few problems with the adjusting ****, they do not like to be twisted to hard and tend to strip making the clicks useless, but BC USA took care of the problem for about $10 in parts and free labor.

the pillowball mounts do not squeek or make excessive noise compared to urethane mounts however you can definately feel the difference the feel is very direct and road vibration can be felt

buddyclubs get my
and services gets

 

awesome thanks!

i already spoke to Ray via AIM and he is going to try to help me once the technicians return to the shop.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K20A_EH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im trying to decide witch would be better for street/track, If anyone could please help</TD></TR></TABLE>

Buddy Club Racing Spec will be the good choose

 

I have a set of Buddy Club Racing spec. Damper and it is quite stiff even i set it to full soft...
I am planning to go back to stock, who want to buy a set?

It only has about 20,000km (12,500mi) on it, I paid $1600 usd a year back, letting it go for 1000usd, anyone? It is from my 1999 ITR
I located in Vancovuer , B.C. ,Canada


Modified by JAIBALL at 4:10 PM 2/15/2006

 

I have the Buddy Club Racing-Specs in 10K/7K however I don't install my suspension until the snow is gone...so early March, so can't give feedback.

I can say they are quality units and I look forward to using them.

- GC/Koni has custom rates...so does Buddy Club
- GC/Koni can be custom valved...so can Buddy Club
- Both have good customer service, but GC/Koni have better warranties
- its really personal preference. I personally choose Buddy Club over GC/Koni, because I wanted a full coilover where the shock is matched to the spring...but it really is personal perference.

Got my Buddy Club for $1650cdn, but they go for about $1200-$1300usd I think now.

I like Buddy Club service and products, so I actually sprung for SF 16" rims too. They make quality products thats forsure, but not to say GC/Koni don't...cause thats quality **** too

 

What's the I.D. of the Buddy Club springs???
Do the dampers allow any room for changes in spring rates?? (i.e. being able to stiffen/soften the springs without the need for revalving)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK4civichatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's the I.D. of the Buddy Club springs???
Do the dampers allow any room for changes in spring rates?? (i.e. being able to stiffen/soften the springs without the need for revalving)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, +/- 2K before needing a re-valve. Buddy Club even said that 3K would work without re-valve, but it generally recommended 2K. For example, I have 10K/7K, if 10K is too stiff, i'll buy some 8K and run 8/7 or if I want stiffer rear i'll run 10/9. re-build is not expensive at all either.

The I.D. i'm not sure, 2.25 or 2.5...call buddy club. Their number is on their site, Buddyclub.us. You always reach someone right away and they know their ****.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alwaysoverkill &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> its really personal preference. I personally choose Buddy Club over GC/Koni, because I wanted a full coilover where the shock is matched to the spring...but it really is personal perference.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would rather have my springs matched to how I want the car to perform not the shock... so lets go the expert and see what he has to say..

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by "CRX Lee" &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
First let's back up and say that you should not purchase springs because they "match" your shocks. Springs are upstream in the suspension from the shocks so you should select springs based on your car and your wants and needs for it. Springs carry the weight of the car and for a given input will establish basically how much movement you will get.

From there, you need to have dampers that will properly control the motions of the car on the springs. Yes, good shocks will cost more than good springs normally but don't put the cart before the horse. Don't underspring your car for your needs because you're shocks aren't too great.

The wider the adjustment range you have and the broader the piston speed range that the effect occurs in, the more the possibility of tuning them to fit your needs and to work with a wider range of spring rates. Just picking numbers, if you have one tool that can adjust from a value of 1-10 and another one to adjust from 1-50, obviously the 1-50 will give you more tuning range to cover more bases and find what you need. Don't be fooled by counting adjustment clicks though as there are shocks on the market that may have 30 clicks but actually only a 10% range of adjustment while another may have 5 or no clicks and cover 100% range of adjustment. So it would be helpful to see a dyno chart especailly with and adjustable shock so you know what and where the true changes occur and not simply hope that a lot of clicks simply means a lot of range.

Still when it comes down to it, you need to do your homework and see what sounds like should be the best spring set-up for your car and then see what should be the best shocks combination for the car. If the shocks are adjustable (and for performance and aggressive springs and use, they sure make it helpful to get the most from the package), then the more real working range you have the better. Once you have made your purchase, then you drive the car and tune with what you have to get what you want. Your area and road quality have a fair amount of input so what works well where you are may not be ideal in Minneapolis, Boston, or LA. As you develop as driver or as you simply get older and less interested in compromising (as I see myself on the street), you can find that your preferred set-up might also slowly change. This may mean the same parts with a different adjustment or you may change some or all of the parts as things change.

Mixing the data you can gather, the opportunties that you might get from different products and your preferences and needs is going to get the best package for you if you re willing to invest the time and money. If you aren't willing, then you can follow the lead of companies with good reputations for quality products or other people and there is a pretty good likelihood that it will work fine for you. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I've had the Racing Spec Dampers on my car now for 3 track events(I track A LOT). and I must say, I LOVE them. My friend got the off the shelf Kon's and GC's on his hatch, and while he really liked them, and this is partly his fault, he got WAY to stiff of springs for what the dampers could handle. Both of his rear dampers are blown now after only 6 months of street/track driving. The only complaint I have with the BC setup is that the spring setups are backwards. They come with a 10k front and 7k rear, and on track, with the car set LEVEL, the fronts sets to 5 and the rears set to 10, the car PUSHED BAD. I could not dial out any understeer and get the car to step out. I am running an ITR 23mm bar in the rear on my GSR as well.

To fix this, I set the car up with slightly more rake, and using the Omni Camber kit in front set the camber at 2.5 degrees negative. I also swapped spring rates front to rear, all this combined for the car to be INCREDIBLY neutral at speed. I was at Willow Springs last weekend and the car FELT GREAT. Overall the car had oversteer if I wanted it and was planted otherwise, I felt so much more comfortable pushing the car, but did not due to the fact that I was 400 miles from home and had to drive the car back to Phoenix. There's TONS of tuning left to be done, and i'm looking forward to finding out what works best on track but for right now, the coilovers feel awesome. HIGHLY recommend them to EVERYONE. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PSUCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've had the Racing Spec Dampers on my car now for 3 track events(I track A LOT). and I must say, I LOVE them. My friend got the off the shelf Kon's and GC's on his hatch, and while he really liked them, and this is partly his fault, he got WAY to stiff of springs for what the dampers could handle. Both of his rear dampers are blown now after only 6 months of street/track driving. The only complaint I have with the BC setup is that the spring setups are backwards. They come with a 10k front and 7k rear, and on track, with the car set LEVEL, the fronts sets to 5 and the rears set to 10, the car PUSHED BAD. I could not dial out any understeer and get the car to step out. I am running an ITR 23mm bar in the rear on my GSR as well.

To fix this, I set the car up with slightly more rake, and using the Omni Camber kit in front set the camber at 2.5 degrees negative. I also swapped spring rates front to rear, all this combined for the car to be INCREDIBLY neutral at speed. I was at Willow Springs last weekend and the car FELT GREAT. Overall the car had oversteer if I wanted it and was planted otherwise, I felt so much more comfortable pushing the car, but did not due to the fact that I was 400 miles from home and had to drive the car back to Phoenix. There's TONS of tuning left to be done, and i'm looking forward to finding out what works best on track but for right now, the coilovers feel awesome. HIGHLY recommend them to EVERYONE. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am also happy with my BC Dampers...i have been wanting to swap the springs arround but ive been to lazy...definitely going to try it for SOW in April

 

Just a side note on something I didn't realize. The dampers are obviously valved for the specific spring rates, and even though swapping front to rear on the dampers as they sit shouldn't have an impact. I completely overlooked the fact that the only things needing to be swapped are the lower portions of each damper. This will allow springs and shocks to be kept to together as they are swapped front ot rear. I'm gonna do it on mine in the next week or so.