Help!!! Fabricating a Wheelie Bar?
what size tubing(O.D.xwall),tube adapter(size n thread),rod ends(thread n holes) and what diagonal link r u using on wheelie bar? And where u buy the parts? need info!!!(be specific pls.) thanks......
i'd say the most common tubing is 1.125 in .058 chromo. on a turbo car id go with some 1.25 058 or 065 chromo. for an 8 sec car id do the 1.25 bottom section and a 1.375 065 top bars. anything you need to build bars can be found in any chasis retailer (rick jones, tim mcimis, etc)
could use mild steel easily. just bump your wall thickness up to .125 or so. if you are fabricating these yourself...be VERY careful and do not cut corners! if you do not consider yourself a great fabricator who could build a full chassis car...fabricating a set of wheelie bars probably isnt for you. not sure in the import scene...but in real racing(sorry for my biased opinion haha)...the v8 cars will hit them with 800+ psi, when they are smashed into the ground. just something to think about.
good luck!
kyle
good luck!
kyle
chromoly isnt much more than mild steel raw. spend a few extra bucks and save the extra weight
and fwd cars hit bars just as hard. alot of turbo cars will see in the 1k psi range in 1st and around 2k psi in 2nd.
and fwd cars hit bars just as hard. alot of turbo cars will see in the 1k psi range in 1st and around 2k psi in 2nd.
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as for accord...i hope u didnt take my post offensively. i was just stating. and also...when you say it came out pretty solid....has it hit the wall at 150+ mph yet? if not, i dont know how you can say it is pretty solid. again, not saying anything against...just simply be safe while fabricating stuff!
as for FWD cars hitting the wheelie bars with the same force...that is about the craziest thing i have ever heard. a fwd car delivers the power to the FRONT tires...creating virtually no weight transfer to the rear tires at all. not saying they doint hit the wheelie bars, but they come NO WHERE NEAR what a 500+ cubic inch big block motor will do to a set of wheelie bars.
chrome-moly a LITTLE more expensive?? hmm....i dont know where your buying yours from...either your paying way to much for mild steel or getting 4130 super cheap! heres some prices:
Mild Steel: 1" o.d. x .083 - $1.80/ft
4130: 1" o.d. x .065 -$2.90/ft
as for FWD cars hitting the wheelie bars with the same force...that is about the craziest thing i have ever heard. a fwd car delivers the power to the FRONT tires...creating virtually no weight transfer to the rear tires at all. not saying they doint hit the wheelie bars, but they come NO WHERE NEAR what a 500+ cubic inch big block motor will do to a set of wheelie bars.
chrome-moly a LITTLE more expensive?? hmm....i dont know where your buying yours from...either your paying way to much for mild steel or getting 4130 super cheap! heres some prices:
Mild Steel: 1" o.d. x .083 - $1.80/ft
4130: 1" o.d. x .065 -$2.90/ft
yes the very impact is harder on a rwd but the people that know what there doing can leave with the bars on the ground before they move in a fwd. and we are still on the bar through the traps, not for 15-20 ft.
and i have no idea what id pay for mild steel because i dont use it. and at $1 extra a foot if you need 30 ft of tube to make the bars, $30 is too much to save 15-20 lbs of dead weight? if it is then your in the wrong sport.
and i have no idea what id pay for mild steel because i dont use it. and at $1 extra a foot if you need 30 ft of tube to make the bars, $30 is too much to save 15-20 lbs of dead weight? if it is then your in the wrong sport.
i would like to fabricate a 2 wheel wheelie bar for a hotrod class crx (800HP). I dont know if im going to use a 1.0" O.D .58 or 1 1/8" O.D .58.....where to get it cheaper 4130 chromoly tubing and the rest of the parts. Need info also where to put the lower part of it in the chassis, im not using a solid rear axle right now, coz of the budget, so guys thanks for some info
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I would use 5/8" + rod ends. I woudl also make sure your using teflon races with chromoly bearings, Personally I dont like tube adapters but I suppose if you must...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ASR_RAMBO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would like to fabricate a 2 wheel wheelie bar for a hotrod class crx (800HP). I dont know if im going to use a 1.0" O.D .58 or 1 1/8" O.D .58.....where to get it cheaper 4130 chromoly tubing and the rest of the parts. Need info also where to put the lower part of it in the chassis, im not using a solid rear axle right now, coz of the budget, so guys thanks for some info
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Randy if you need metal and parts im a distributor for Any Metal supplies i can get you the best price in any tubing..
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Randy if you need metal and parts im a distributor for Any Metal supplies i can get you the best price in any tubing..
want2race....just curious as to why you dislike tubing end adapters? ive never heard this from anyone and was just curious of your reasoning...
kyle
kyle
Thanks danny
and im randy's friend. Remember u did my fuel tank brace. i'll call u up sometimes to get a wheelie bar and fix something on my roll bar......
and im randy's friend. Remember u did my fuel tank brace. i'll call u up sometimes to get a wheelie bar and fix something on my roll bar......
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueoval557 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">want2race....just curious as to why you dislike tubing end adapters? ive never heard this from anyone and was just curious of your reasoning...
kyle</TD></TR></TABLE>
probably because its easier to just tap straight into the tubing..
kyle</TD></TR></TABLE>
probably because its easier to just tap straight into the tubing..
good point tony. never really thought of that, but you would indeed have to use some thick *** DOM tubing. also....ever tried to hand tap threads for rod ends? lol. i did for all of the adjustable lower ties i used to fabricate....its not easy!
kyle
kyle
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueoval557 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good point tony. never really thought of that, but you would indeed have to use some thick *** DOM tubing. also....ever tried to hand tap threads for rod ends? lol. i did for all of the adjustable lower ties i used to fabricate....its not easy!
kyle</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have hand tapped holes, infact I have done over 80 of them in one day!~ Its not easy but it worked hella well!
As for thickness, If you put an almost wedding band thin ring around before you tap it its infinitely stronger!
kyle</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have hand tapped holes, infact I have done over 80 of them in one day!~ Its not easy but it worked hella well!
As for thickness, If you put an almost wedding band thin ring around before you tap it its infinitely stronger!
So, generally you will run around 1.125" tubing and around a 1/2 to 5/8 heim. It's going to take an awefully thick and heavy tube to make that happen w/o tube adaptors. Not using tube adaptors in this situation would just be dumb. If tube adaptors are good enough for professional chassis builders like Jerry Bickel, Rick Jones, Don Ness, etc, then they're good enough for the rest of the world. I've built lower wheelie bars out of .035 tubing that weighed 14lbs, and you're not going to accomplish that w/o tube adaptors of some sort. Thick tubing is NOT the way to go!
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