90 CRX W/ JDM d15b code 7???????
I keep getting the tps code and it wont go away. I converted everything to obd 1 and am using a p28 ecu. I swapped out the tps with one from my gsr and it still throws that code. I even put my p72 ecu in and it didnt change anything. The car idles low and cuts out at about 3500 rpm. I even got a new map sensor but that didnt do anything either. I am fed up with this motor and am about ready to junk it if I cant get it running right. Any help would be great.
Modified by IronOutlawz at 1:02 PM 6/1/2005
Modified by IronOutlawz at 1:02 PM 6/1/2005
Well then the question is what did you do to it before it started to throw a code? sometimes, ecu takes a while for it to throw a code.
i'm guessing you might of hit the firewall with the engine. Try using the original ecu intended for the engine or fiddel with the wires and inspect them at the tps. Double check connections.
cause i want to do this swap.
cause i want to do this swap.
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im pretty sure that the engine didnt hit the firewall cuz i have all new motor mounts with poly inserts which makes it pretty stiff. i checked the wires and it looks fine. im just ****** stumped and its pissin me off.
I don't know. It was just a suggestion. Usually after it works for a while, and it starts throwin codes, its an electrical problem. Possibly on some of the connections. Did you soder anything?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX-Fluffy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can you name the exact code perhaps you can troubleshoot it with the Helms service manual?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea I already tried it. Its throwin Code 7(TPS). I just cant think of anything else to try
Yea I already tried it. Its throwin Code 7(TPS). I just cant think of anything else to try
swaping tps's is a no no. Thats a tamper resistent part that honda designed to not be touched. Unless you recalibrate it via multimeter, then ur tps is always goin to show different angles. Does it idle funny? I'll look the cases up.
What gets me is that it read the code first then u changed it. So... unless u havn't told us something it's ur tps. Assuming that the wiring is done correctly, you shouldn't have a problem.
well i know that the tps that i took off the gsr is still good cuz i never had problems with it, so i might just take it back to the guy that did the wiring and make him fix it since it souldnt be doing this ****.
Check the tps first. If it is not re-calibrated then it can make your car run poorly. Also, make sure you re-set the ecu.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IronOutlawz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i know that the tps that i took off the gsr is still good cuz i never had problems with it, so i might just take it back to the guy that did the wiring and make him fix it since it souldnt be doing this ****.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd probably go with that. But assuming the wiring is correct. Then the tps is the problem. How did he do the wiring anyways? Did he get the obd0-obd1 conversion harness? And i think u have to add like 4-5 wires for alt, dist and o2 sensor if i am not mistaken.
I'd probably go with that. But assuming the wiring is correct. Then the tps is the problem. How did he do the wiring anyways? Did he get the obd0-obd1 conversion harness? And i think u have to add like 4-5 wires for alt, dist and o2 sensor if i am not mistaken.
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