im throwing a code 9 which is cyl. positon sensor anyone know how to fix this porb let me know.

 

btw its a dual cam zc with pm7 ecu

 

get a new distributor would probably be the easiest. that is the only thing that fixed my code 9.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sanimalp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a new distributor would probably be the easiest. that is the only thing that fixed my code 9.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And the most expensive. Thats what I did when I had a code 9, it didn't fix my problem because I had a loose connector. So i just spent 200 bux for a new distributor when I didn't need it.

1. Check for continuity FIRST.
2. If there is continuity, resolder the connection at the ECU and make sure the connection at the distributor plug is good. If there is not continuity, replace the wires, and that solves your problem.
3. If there is contuinty and good connections, then you need a new distributor.

Here, use this, it works:
Page 1: http://www.we-todd-did-racing....3D%3D
Page 2: http://www.we-todd-did-racing....3D%3D

 

because this is on a ZC...the cyl sensor is separate from the distributor.
A common cause for this on a ZC is cam timing...check to make sure the timing belt is properly aligned.

 

I have the same code..... Everything runs fine still though lol I tried all the connections an resoldered all the connections from my fields controller. How do I check continuity ?

 

yea my cars runs fine too hell no i aint buying new dizzy mines just fine,anyone know how to make sure the timing belt is aligned i never heard of that and how do i check the exhust cam sensor cause thats the cyl. postion sensor and i want to check it make sure its good

 

I have same problem cannot figure it out....I have checked everything.....I have tried a different ecu.......I just put on another dizzy ......it is unknown if it is good or not but it still throws the same damn code......I guess I could get a new dizzy but it runs perfect....if your cam is off by a tooth it would run like crap.....so I am just going to have to live with my check engine light....BTW it is an obd 1 swapped mini me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Here, use this, it works:
Page 1: http://www.we-todd-did-racing....3D%3D
Page 2: http://www.we-todd-did-racing....3D%3D</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah do that. the reason i said get a new distributor is because i chased mine around for a while before i actually figured it out. i spent money on plug wires, a new distributor cap, new rotor, etc..etc.... before i finally caved and bought a new distributor. my experience since then is that the ecu doesnt lie. if it senses that the tdc or cyl pos sensor is not reporting information, it throws a code. i got a distributor off ebay for $150, put it it, and it works. no codes, no problems. granted the things i replaced werent necessarily things that were directly related to the code problem, i still spent money hoping it would magically fix the problem. i was just trying to save him some time. and use those links.. that is the oem honda manual troubleshooting guide. and use your multimeter set to ohms, that will tell you if you have continuity in that circuit. if your meter reads 0 ohms, then you need a new distributor.

 

anyone know how to test an exshust cam sensor