I have a 97 Accord and finally decided to change the front brakes. Well, I aquire all the tools I think are necessary and get started.

1. Took off lug nuts

2. Took off spindle nut

3. Took off the Caliper/Caliper housing

4. Took off 4 front flange nuts

5. Took off 4 bolts on the back (can't remember the name of the bolts). At this point I thought it was going to just slide right off. A number of other frineds told me that the only thing holding the Hub/Discs on were the spindle nut and the 4 bolts in the front/back. They forgot to tell me what to do in case there is rust though....

6. Tried to pull the rotor/hub assembly off....but it just sat there and stared at me....laughing.

Now I've tried just trying to pry it out with a crowbar and some rust remover thinggy, but the thing is stuck like white on rice. I've tried a number of contraptions (I'll post pics of them later, after I get all this squared away) but they worked with minimal success.

I've tried calling several Napa, Kragen, and Autozones in the area trying to find a part that the service manual calls a "Hub disassembly tool" but the people working there have no idea what I'm talking about.....So HT, please help...I don't know what to do now

 

this happend when i got my rotors taken off and resurfaced.. they guys sayed i had rust and tehy spent about 3 hours banging and pulling.. they said it was teh harded job they've had in a while.. i guess all you could do is keep trying.. try geting wd40 or sum kind of substance to break the rust... good luck

 

put the 4 14 mm bolts back on that hold rotor to hub assembly do not tighten them up real tight you will remove those later,,i am assuming axle is out of the way thus you took the 4 bolts on back that are visible once you take axle out of the way right?? they are either 12 mm 6 point or 10mm 12 point bolts now get a big hammer and since you are putting new rotors hit the living **** out of the rotors they will come out that way ,,,,
to put back together make sure you sand down where the hub slides in in the knuckle assembly and the hub itself where it slides in

 

****, the rotors for my car sound like way too much trouble, isnt there a bearing that needs to be replaced or repacked?

 

There's a ball joint connected to a castle nut on the suspension that may need replacement. Is that what you meant?

Well, in any event they finally came off today. I wanted to have both rotors resurfaced but the other one looked fine I suppose. Well, I'll post pics of the procedure and whatnot that we used to get the damn thing off.....We called it "the device" and the thing worked like a charm.

 

yo confu no need to replace or repack bearing if you are just replacing rotor, bearing stays in hub assembly no need to touch it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deserthonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> bearing stays in hub assembly</TD></TR></TABLE>

not always. Sometimes the wheel bearing gets rusted into the knuckle and when you slime hammer or just hammer the assembly off, the inner race and the bearing seperate (inner race stays on the hub and the rest of the bearing stays in the knuckle) exposing the inside of the bearing. If that happens it is recommended that you replace the bearing. So people have had that happen and not replace it but I don't know how long it last or if it had any affect. But it is recommended to replace it if the inside of the bearing is exposed.

I believe this is what Confuc1ous was refering to.

After doing this once, my plan was to convert to rotor-over-hub the next time I was to change the rotors.

 

like i said no need to dick around with wheel bearing if you are just replacing rotors ,as long as you remove the 4 bolts from behind the hub the ones that you can get to once you take the axle out the bub assembly will come out as a unit with bearings in it ,,it is the part of the hub that goes in the knuckle not the bearing.....do not do not do not remove the 4 14mm frt bolts and use a puller than you will separate the bearing and that is a no no

 

there is a pdf on the internet that shows you how to remove the rotor using 4 eatra long bolts and an impact wrench. you thread the botls into the 4 holes and turn each one 1/2 turn in a circular pattern until the rotor comes off.

Saves you from beating the crap out of your suspension trying to get that rotor off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deserthonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as long as you remove the 4 bolts from behind the hub the ones that you can get to once you take the axle out the bub assembly will come out as a unit with bearings in it</TD></TR></TABLE>

As I said before, it doesn't always work like that. Even if you remove those bolts from the back, the hub can still be pulled from the bearing if the bearing is rusted hard enough to the knuckle. I know because thats exactly what happened to me and to others from what I've heard. It would be extremely nice if it did always work like that but it doesn't. When I had everything reassembled by a machine shop they cleaned the knuckle up real good and put some grease inbetween the bearing and the knuckle so that the next time the bearing should come out after removing the four bolts and not be rusted and not rust up.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there is a pdf on the internet that shows you how to remove the rotor using 4 eatra long bolts and an impact wrench. you thread the botls into the 4 holes and turn each one 1/2 turn in a circular pattern until the rotor comes off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, I've seen that pdf file. I think I even have it downloaded somewhere. The thing that makes you not want to use those instructions is that when you stick the longer bolts through the bearing and push on the rotor, you push the rotor/hub out of the bearing which you don't want because that will expose the inside of the bearing.

 

Bearing is going to be exposed no matter what .. I bought castrol grease and greased those babies up nice when I had my brake job done .. Id recommend greasing your too, b/c ones with higher milage tend to get dry.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AccordRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bearing is going to be exposed no matter what.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The inside? Not always, only if the hub is removed from the bearing is the inside of the bearing going to be exposed.

As long as the bearing/rotor/hub can be removed from the knuckle as a whole assembly then the rotor can be replaced without ever exposing the inside of the bearing. But like I said before, it doesn't always work out like that.