Damn, I feel like a dumbass posting this, I can't get my idle to go back to normal, but I can build and install a complete turbo b series motor, go figure!!!

I've tried cleaning out the IACV
Ensuring the TPS was within spec per HELMS
Cleaned out inside of throttle body AND ensured the butterfly is closing completely.
Tried a different throttle body
completely removed the fitv and sealed off
check ALL vacuum lines
Using VX throttle cable on GSR Motor

I still have a surging idle from around 500-1500. It does not do it all the time. I have to adjust my throttle cable too tight for it to stop but then the idle is high and it is never the same.

I believe it may be the throttle cable itself sticking inside the line. It seems to be the only thing I haven't checked.

Any other suggestions???

 

Maybe the evap purge solenoid is stuck open. I know when mine was open my idle would surge just like that.

DAN

 

are you sure its not a vaccum leak?

 

Air in the coolingsystem will cause a funny idle.. The hot air bubbles causes the sensors for cold start etc to act funny

 

thanks for the replies.

No evap purge so I don't think that could be it.

I'll re-bleed coolant to see if that helps.

Any other suggestions?

 

I don't know. I have the same problem. I've tried all that as well. Mine only does it when engine is warm. Someone suggested replacing the O2 sensor since it's not metered by the ECU until operating temp is reached. Have yet to try that though.

 

my hondata has bypassed the O2 on my setup so it can't be that.

my car does it all the time, warm up or not.

 

bump.

 

Have you checked valve clearance and the IM gaskets??

 

Is vacuum normal on your gauge?

 

hondata cant control the obd2 4-wire iacv's. i had that problem when i was running uberdata, the idle would surge every now and then

 

This is so pissing me off, I can't figure this **** out!!!

Just did a valve job when we built motor so its good.

I just re-bled cooling system, no luck.

my vac on my boost guage is around the normal, but it is fluctuating with the idle.

Boost holds steady when I'm driving it.

I do not have a 4 wire IACV or an obd2 motor so that isn't the problem either.

 

Have you tried the Fast Idle Thermo Valve on the bottom of the throttle body? I know you swapped t-bodies, but this happens all the time from my experience. There's 2 x 10mm's holding it on. Take that off, there's 2 x phillips head screws, unscrew one and loosen the other, then swing that plate around, there's a white plastic valve right there with a slot running across it. stick a flathead in the slot and try to tighten it like a screw. If it's loose, tighten it all the way. That's not going to fix your problem perminatly, but it will tell you if the FIT valve is the problem.

Actually, First, take the charge pipe off, and reach your index finger into the t-body on the left side if you're facing it, and plug the finger-sized hole inside the t-body, but before the plate. I believe that's the vacuum port running to the fit valve.

 

REMOVED FITV

 

new intake manifold gasket or not?

 

yes I replaced all gaskets/seals when I built the motor.

I did tourqe the intake mani bolts to spec.

I just came in from trying to diagnose, I turned off my fan so I could hear better and it might seem like there is a leak somewhere, doesn't sound like mani/head area, maybe tb or somewhere on the intake mani. I gotta have a buddy listen too to make sure I'm not just crazy.

 

I am having the same problem right now. But with a D series build. I have come to the conclusion that either my throttle plate is not closing completely or I have a IM or TB leak.

 

do you have your turbo set up on yet? if so any codes??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">REMOVED FITV</TD></TR></TABLE>

So how did you close it off? You should try to put one back on.

 

yea, turbo setup is all on, NO CODES, just surging idle.

I pulled my piping off the tb and ensured the tb is closing completely and it is.

It got too dark last night to do anymore diagnosing, I'll have to try more after work today.

I'm also going to give it another go over with carb spray and see what happens.

 

With engine warmed up and IACV unplugged, what is your base idle set to?

 

EE_Chris, I don't know haven't tried that.

I figured out what was wrong, the map sensor itself somehow has a leak, its not leaking under it, like through the plastic, I don't freakin know!!!

I swapped with another I had sitting around and now it FINALLY IDLES!!

It idles low as hell though, like 500rpms, I have the idle screw turned out quite a bit, hopefully a little more will up the idle some.

Any new suggestions on getting the idle back to like 750-800ish???

 

If you have the ROMeditor and a burner, I'd confirm your target idle speed (I like 800rpm), base ignition timing, and idle fuel mixture.

Make sure that the Hondata is sync'd in with teh base ignition timing. Retarded timing can cause it to idle lower.

If you have Hondalogger & ROMeditor or a wideband, take a look at the idle AFR's or the STFT with the Hondalogger and closed-loop enabled. Aim for stoich or 0% +/-3% correction on the STFT.

If that doesn't help, then try giving the IACV a little more duty cycle.

 

I don't have the hondata software, any suggestions on how to fix without? Or how I can finagle a way?

 

You can turn the stop screw for the TB... or you can just bend the metal itself. I've done this before to get cars to idle right.

Disconnect IACV first....