The block was full of shavings from the factory. We had to clean the oil and coolant passages several times to insure the block was clean internally.


GE plugs were installed to seal the oil squirter holes. Squirters not necessary for forged pistons.


The block came with a 83.75mm unfinished bore diameter. Block was sent to Bensons for an 84mm bore. An interesting thing happened there. After boring, the sleeves had RAISED .006". (They came flat from the factory.) Benson pressed the sleeves back down to zero and then surfaced .003" off of the deck. If he had surfaced the block before pressing the sleeves down, we would have had dropped sleeves. Note the installed oil squirter plugs.


A 92mm Crower crank was chosen for the build. I had Benson spin it just in case but it was in perfect balance. Note the Crower counterweights are slightly thinner than the stock gsr crank behind it. Long rods were chosen for the build. The final rod/stroke ratio was a cool 1.69-1.


The crank was cross drilled by Crower for better oil control. Note the pipe cleaners going in 2 different directions from the same hole.


The main caps are torqued to 65lbs. Main bearing clearance came out at .0016" across the board. Nice QC on the block and crank made that easy.


CP Pistons were used in the build. The top ring was kept low on the piston for heat control with turbo usage. The rings were packed close together as the oil ring was in the pin hole already. Note the use of a button to support the lower oil rail and keep the pin in place.


A view of the long Crower rod to compensate for the 3/4" extra deck height.


Rod side clearance came out perfect at .012". Rod bearing clearance also came out at .0016", just like the mains.


Short-short is complete. Note the thinner counterweights.


Windage tray, typeR oil pump, Moroso pick-up and longer studs installed. You must use a Dart dip stick with the block.


Moroso pan fit nice. I was pleasantly surprised with its quality.


CP Piston dish was designed to help with the quench and allow an extra large SuperTech valve to be installed in the custom PortFlow head we did.


Birds eye view of the block. The size came out to be 2040cc's.


Block is sealed for shippment. Note the Fluidine dampner. Timing mark on the balancer was dead on.

Although the Dart block is a quality piece, I still think the better value is a sleeved block unless you absolutely must have a raised deck.

 

Wow, clean as hell. I want one

 

What size valves are you using on that?

 

you never cease to amaze me, earl

 

Mr. Earl, so Dart block don't use girdle? Interesting. It's purrrrty. Is it coming my way? lol I wish.
Vic

 

Earl, you wear DVS'?

 

all that and it still uses sleeves?? I do like the way it's closed deck though.

what made you guys go with the crower rods and crank for the build?? were they the only ones available in the correct stroke/length? I thought you were downing on crower in another thread not too long ago?

edit: oh yeah and what did you coat the pistons/rings with when you installed them?? just curious.

 

looks nice earl

 

Why does Dart recommend Squiters?? I thought it was to decrease detenation??

 

Another absolutely flawless write up...thanx Earl

PS...i agree with ur statement, i think the dart block is a lil over rated...

 

I think Crower makes the best crank out there for a reasonable price. Their kits come in at under $2500 and was available.

 

Looks similar to the Dart build-up in D-Sport latest mag. They are doing a talk deck and regular deck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fknfast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why does Dart recommend Squiters?? I thought it was to decrease detenation??</TD></TR></TABLE>Detonation happens above the piston, not below it. Oil underneath will not fix a tuning error.
BTW, Dart also makes plugs for the squirters.

 

Hey that’s my block

The only reason I picked the Dart block was for the taller deck. I didn't want to trust a deck plate to get a good rod/stroke ratio.

The thing about running the dart block is cost... There are so many little things that you will need to complete one. Thank god I had a donor GSR block for most of the little things I needed.

If anyone is thinking about getting a regular deck dart block.... save your money and just see Earl and get your block sleeved. It’s much more cost effective and proven to produce.

There were a bunch of other things we ran into while this block was being built. The "freeze" plugs are not a stock thread, so if you were planning on running an Endyn catch can setup, you cannot use the supplied block fittings. If you look closely at the pic's above, you can see that I ended up using modified 3/4" to -8an fittings. If Earl can find it, I had him take a pick of both fittings side by side.

Make sure that you have the Dart supplied dipstick tube. Honda tubes are too small and do not fit.

Earl had some problems fitting the flywheel side cover onto the block. The Dart block is a little narrower (is that a word? ) where the cover would go. Earl shaved a little material off of the cover to make it fit.

I can't wait to get it all together and running, I'm "hoping" to get it together by this weekend. But with all of the fab work I still need to complete for my car, I'm not sure if I will make it. I've been gathering parts for the better part of 2 years and don't feel like rushing (too much) it now even though it’s so close to being completed.

I would like to give a special thanks to Earl his customer service is unheard of and un-equaled in this industry. It's very rare these days to find a vendor that will go that extra mile for you...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TrueNorthStar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey that’s my block

The only reason I picked the Dart block was for the taller deck. I didn't want to trust a deck plate to get a good rod/stroke ratio.

The thing about running the dart block is cost... There are so many little things that you will need to complete one. Thank god I had a donor GSR block for most of the little things I needed.

If anyone is thinking about getting a regular deck dart block.... save your money and just see Earl and get your block sleeved. It’s much more cost effective and proven to produce.

There were a bunch of other things we ran into while this block was being built. The "freeze" plugs are not a stock thread, so if you were planning on running an Endyn catch can setup, you cannot use the supplied block fittings. If you look closely at the pic's above, you can see that I ended up using modified 3/4" to -8an fittings. If Earl can find it, I had him take a pick of both fittings side by side.

Make sure that you have the Dart supplied dipstick tube. Honda tubes are too small and do not fit.

Earl had some problems fitting the flywheel side cover onto the block. The Dart block is a little narrower (is that a word? ) where the cover would go. Earl shaved a little material off of the cover to make it fit.

I can't wait to get it all together and running, I'm "hoping" to get it together by this weekend. But with all of the fab work I still need to complete for my car, I'm not sure if I will make it. I've been gathering parts for the better part of 2 years and don't feel like rushing (too much) it now even though it’s so close to being completed.

I would like to give a special thanks to Earl his customer service is unheard of and un-equaled in this industry. It's very rare these days to find a vendor that will go that extra mile for you...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought that was yours. yeah so i need a dart Oil dip stick now too? WTF! Can i get get one from them or do i have to order one?

 

I called Dart and told them that the dipstick tube wasn't included in the box for my block and they sent me one out free of charge

 

Very nice!

 

nice build but you need a better camera.

 

"Rod bearing clearance also came out at .016", just like the mains."

I know you meant to put an extra 0 in there just wanted it to be right so if anyone sourced this for info they didn't set there rod bearing clearances at 16 thousandths. ;^)
Insane build, that thing will rev nice and take an incredible beating.

 

ooops, thanks, got it fixed.

 

Very nice....

 

Will a tall deck motor like this fit under a stock DC2 hood?

 

that is super sweet looking block. man look at the stroke! it's one hellova trq monster, what kind of power are you guys aiming for??! 1g+ hp+tq?!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16sedan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Will a tall deck motor like this fit under a stock DC2 hood?</TD></TR></TABLE>could be a problem, not sure. This one is going in a CRX

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">could be a problem, not sure. This one is going in a CRX</TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha. Hotrodding is alive and well, I see. Keep up the good work, Mr. Earl .