Just finished up installing the Mugen oil pan. I am a bit paranoid about the gasket and getting it in there straight and not over-tightening the bolts/nuts. I think it all worked out ok, but I noticed the gasket 'squished' out near one of the bolts more than anywhere else. I'm sure it wasn't overtightened but it has me worried. The last thing I want is an oil leak around the gasket.

Should that be fine? Is it normal to see some bits of the gasket 'squished' out a bit?

 

ive seen some parts of the gasket squisehed out before and never had a prob with leaks. but if you want to be safe, bust of the torque wrench

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thaiphob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive seen some parts of the gasket squisehed out before and never had a prob with leaks. but if you want to be safe, bust of the torque wrench </TD></TR></TABLE>

I used a torque wrench to factory specs and it still squished out a tiny bit in one spot. Should I be ok or is that a sure sign that it will leak? Would I be better served pulling it off and trying again?

 

I have tried numerous times to seal my pan properly. I have been through $250 in gaskets. I tried the factory torque specs and I found the best way is to use a little rtv in the corners to hold the gasket and then snug all the nuts, then in a clockwise rotation begin to tighten them down. I did three tightening sequences, gradually getting tighter each time. Use a small 1/4'' rachet and you'll be good.
The moral of my story is that the only time the pan actually sealed was when the gasket squished out a little.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by btotherizzle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have tried numerous times to seal my pan properly. I have been through $250 in gaskets. I tried the factory torque specs and I found the best way is to use a little rtv in the corners to hold the gasket and then snug all the nuts, then in a clockwise rotation begin to tighten them down. I did three tightening sequences, gradually getting tighter each time. Use a small 1/4'' rachet and you'll be good.
The moral of my story is that the only time the pan actually sealed was when the gasket squished out a little.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I followed the procedure you mentioned (in the Helms manual). Maybe I'm ok.
Here is a pic of what I am talking about. If this is a problem I'd rather fix it now with everything already apart than later when I discover a leak...

 

I really doubt thats gonna leak

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kavehman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I really doubt thats gonna leak</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cool. I hope not. I jsut took it all off and put it back on again without using the torque wrench and it did the exact same thing at the exact same location... I guess that is how it is going to be.

 

Why dont you spray the area spotless with some brake cleaner, drive around a bit, take it up a few times and see if you can see anything. Other than that if its a new gasket torqued to spec like others said I doubt itd leak.

 

it looks fine, just drive it for 15 minutes then crawl under there and check it out if your worried about it.

 

I went through 2 gaskets when I put on my Mugen pan. Even when using a factory spec, it can still squish out. When it stopped leaking, I used this procedure: torqing it to spec in three steps, and when it started to squish out, I stopped, whether the wrench clicked or not. I think the key is to watch it and compress it, but not squish it.

 

just little though..maybe when you bolt on gasket possible to slip out little bit from where it suppose to be??

 

The gasket has more of a tendency to 'squish' at the spots on the block with oil on them. Getting everything very clean and dry should help some.

 

Just discovered that it is in fact leaking a bit through the gasket seal...
Nothing I hate more than carefully doing everything as perfectly as possible and it still doesn't work.

I'm going to have to leave it for now (I have a track day planned on Thursday) and fix it soon I guess...

&lt;--- keeping a close eye on oil levels.

 

The oil pan gasket has a flat side and a side that has 2 ribs. Which way faces what direction?

 

yeah after seeing that pictures i would of bet that was going to 'seep' at that part of the pan. you are correct in using a bit of RTV or hondabond on all 4 corners and it is easier to have someone hold the pan in place while you are putting on all the bolts/nuts and going around 5+ times getting slightly tighter each time. I believe the spec is only like 20 ft/lb which is next to nothing. I didn't torquie mine just used a 1/4 wratchet and you can feel when they are tight (about the same tightness of the bolts holding the valve cover down to the head). Good Luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EleanoR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah after seeing that pictures i would of bet that was going to 'seep' at that part of the pan. you are correct in using a bit of RTV or hondabond on all 4 corners and it is easier to have someone hold the pan in place while you are putting on all the bolts/nuts and going around 5+ times getting slightly tighter each time. I believe the spec is only like 20 ft/lb which is next to nothing. I didn't torquie mine just used a 1/4 wratchet and you can feel when they are tight (about the same tightness of the bolts holding the valve cover down to the head). Good Luck!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Heh, the intentions are good, but you're like 3 years late, hehe.

I think Mike just posted it in here instead of starting another Mugen Oilpan thread.

Mike, pretty sure the ribs down towards the pan, I think it's how I installed mine, but it was a bit ago. No leaks...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JjuuN R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Mike, pretty sure the ribs down towards the pan, I think it's how I installed mine, but it was a bit ago. No leaks...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep.

What I do to make sure the gasket goes on properly is to put the gasket on the block. The studs hold it up... some what anyway. I then bring the pan up to the gasket.

 

The gasket should get a small dab of sealant where the rear main seal and oil pump seams are, that is also done by the factory because there is a very small step that the gasket cannot squeeze into.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Runnerdown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The gasket should get a small dab of sealant where the rear main seal and oil pump seams are, that is also done by the factory because there is a very small step that the gasket cannot squeeze into.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have done it with and without Hondabond. The consensus is that if you use sealant it has to be extremely thin or the gasket will leak anyway.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Comp97GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have done it with and without Hondabond. The consensus is that if you use sealant it has to be extremely thin or the gasket will leak anyway.</TD></TR></TABLE>


A very small amount of sealant is needed, most people use way to much and makes a mess anyways. Usually the gaskets tens to "seep" slightly and you will see some dirt collecting around the outside of the gasket after quite some time. If its actually leaking/dripping then you have a problem with your pan or sealing surfaces.

 

Question on replacing oil pan and gasket. It looks like the A pipe needs to be removed from the manifold in order to do this project. Is that right? Is there another way?

I've got a stock exhaust with 100k miles on it. Those 3 bolts on where the A pipe meets the manifold look mighty rusty. How difficult to you think it will be to get these bolts off? Is there a gasket I should be replacing when I do this?

 

Just drop the entire exhaust manifold.

 

That's the easiest way? Replace the manifold gasket? And the 2 self locking nuts?

 

Its been a while since I've seen the stock manifold, but, I replaced my pan with the exhaust/header still on. SMS header....

 

Did you prep the block properly by removing all traces of the old gasket?
Clean the sealing surface carefully and throughly with a scraper and acetone or varsol. Use a little blue gasket maker around all the bolt holes and tightnen using the factory sequence. Also, check to make sure that the oil pan isn't warped or damaged. Good luck.