ok...so yesterday it was nice out so i decided it was time for an oil change and tune up. I went to go get oil for my car. i bought four quarts of Mobil 1 fully synt motor oil and a FRAM filter. today i did the oil, i didn't notice what type of oil i bought until i poured all four quarts into and realize that the lablel says MOBIL 1 5W-20, FULLY SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL.

BTW, I have an OBD2 b18b in my eg hatch. So what do you guys think? is the oil going to do any damage to my motor? slow my car anyhow? please let me know, because i have never put 5w-20 into my motor before.

 

Im sure you will be fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg6_rick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">MOBIL 1 5W-20 </TD></TR></TABLE>

actually that's the recommend weight.

 

so everyone thinks its okay to put Mobil 1 5W-20 in my motor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg6_rick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so everyone thinks its okay to put Mobil 1 5W-20 in my motor? </TD></TR></TABLE>

what...

you got the right one 5w20, that's the recoomend one.

But you can mix with any wieght you want...such as 10w or 20w

 

All the honda 4-bangers i've seen recommend 5w20...

 

thanks a bunch guys. i always thought that 5w-30 was the recommended weight. but now that i know

 

its not going to do anything but it is not the rec. weight. all b series motors rec. 5w-30. its not until the new d series motors (2001-on) they rec. 5w-20.

 

I don't know what everyone above is thinking , but 5w20 is not the recommended oil, 5w30 is. 5w20 won't be a problem to run though.

 

ya 5w20 is fine i run that in the winter time. and once its a little warmer i throw 5w30 in.

 

can i ask why u use one of the best oils and worst filter?

 

The actual recommended weight is 5w-30. The "B" series, wasn't introduced to 5w-20. But, you will be ok. If you lift the hood of a "01 civic and up you'll see the recommend 5w-20. Don't worry that oil is ok for your engine it won't hurt.

 

This is just my 2 cents but after disassembling a FRAM filter and seeing them leaking in my shop I don't trust them or recommend them. Buy an OEM Honda filter. It should only be 5 bucks from the dealer. Your already using high dollar oil. Why use a cheap filter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic-si-2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is just my 2 cents but after disassembling a FRAM filter and seeing them leaking in my shop I don't trust them or recommend them. Buy an OEM Honda filter. It should only be 5 bucks from the dealer. Your already using high dollar oil. Why use a cheap filter.</TD></TR></TABLE>

OEM Honda is just about as bad, unless you ask for the S2000 filter.

 

Doesnt fram making honda filters except the s2k? Go to napa and buy a filter, wix is what i use.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic-si-2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is just my 2 cents but after disassembling a FRAM filter and seeing them leaking in my shop I don't trust them or recommend them. Buy an OEM Honda filter. It should only be 5 bucks from the dealer. Your already using high dollar oil. Why use a cheap filter.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've used Fram filters pretty much my entire automotive career and I've had the best running, most reliable cars out of anybody I know. I also work for Valvoline and can say with confidence that the "cheap" filters you get through instant oil change places like that are just fine for all but the hardest-core road racing and rally autos.

Listen, fellas: save yourself some money and stop buying Mobil 1 for your Honda. Your car doesn't need full synthetic motor oil. It'll run just as well on the base or semi-synthetic or high-mileage brands out on the market and it'll cost you probably 50% as much. As for the filter, that doesn't matter either.

Unless you're turning 700whp with a $3000 turbocharger, none of this matters at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I've used Fram filters pretty much my entire automotive career and I've had the best running, most reliable cars out of anybody I know. I also work for Valvoline and can say with confidence that the "cheap" filters you get through instant oil change places like that are just fine for all but the hardest-core road racing and rally autos.

Listen, fellas: save yourself some money and stop buying Mobil 1 for your Honda. Your car doesn't need full synthetic motor oil. It'll run just as well on the base or semi-synthetic or high-mileage brands out on the market and it'll cost you probably 50% as much. As for the filter, that doesn't matter either.

Unless you're turning 700whp with a $3000 turbocharger, none of this matters at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>



Terrible advice. I couldn't disagree more. With the way some of these guys are running their motors (extremely hard driving, mix/match parts, un tuned) the engine needs some cheap insurance. Sythetic will give extended drain intervals and better thermal protection than dino oil, which should probably just be shelved forever. Synthetic is absolutely worth the extra couple bucks---don't be so cheap.

 

Yeah....people always say hondas are reliable...

They sure are, until you start replacing all the damn parts and redlining it at 8600 rpm...

With the stress we put on our engines, I say don't skimp on maintenance.

 

your good

 

is it ok if i use 10w30 on my motor.. i use castrol gtx 10w30 and frame filters.. i've used it for about 1 year since i had my swap..

btw: gsr motor in a hatch

 

ok, I have observed that many of you who have posted on this thread don't know much about oil so lets get some things straight

if an oil is 5W30 that means the 5 or 5W is the winter weight (W for winter), and the 30 is the weight at high temp. Now one common misconception is that 5 weight is thinner than 30 weight, wrong, it flows faster, not thinner.

Now what you want to consider when picking an oil is is it cold outside, if yes, then a 5w30 is needed, and even better is a 0W30. If it is warm a 10W30 is great. But there is ABSOLUTLY no reasone to change from a 5W30 to a 10W30 every season. This is because a 5W30 will only flow like a 5 weight when it is colder, and the viscosity (weight) increases as the temperature increases. The reason it is important to have a fast flowing oil is at cold start up you want it to lubricate your parts FAST because most engine wear occurs at start up. (FYI castrol GTX start up is a marketing ploy)

Now the reason honda and other car makers are now using 5W20 in the NEWER cars is because a 20 weight oil yeilds better gas milage than a 30 weight, but the trade off is that it does not protect as well under high stress.

Any weight oil can be used in any engine, every car maker recommends a certain viscosity, but the best one depends on your climate and driving nature.

Synthetic is the best, protects better and longer than any dino juice could ever dream of. And Honda filters are made by fram (crap) if they say Honda of Canada on them.

 

^^^^^ this guy ish good ..

take notes guys and gals...



Modified by Zing Xiong at 2:09 PM 5/30/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnnyWash1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Terrible advice. I couldn't disagree more. With the way some of these guys are running their motors (extremely hard driving, mix/match parts, un tuned) the engine needs some cheap insurance. Sythetic will give extended drain intervals and better thermal protection than dino oil, which should probably just be shelved forever. Synthetic is absolutely worth the extra couple bucks---don't be so cheap. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I road race my car and work for an oil company. My father works for Ashland Chemical, owner of Valvoline, and he is also a master mechanic.

Unless you have a d16z6 Si hatchback with 254,000+ miles on it that you flog the **** out of on a regular basis with nothing more than extended life Valvoline dino juice, you can go ahead and shut the **** up. I road race my car - that would be floating around 5000-6500 rpm for hours at a time, junior - on 10w30 petrolium-derived ****.

Also, synthetic bleeds off and burns much more quickly than organic oil because of its chemical makeup. Therefore, especially if your engine has more than 100k on the clock, you shouldn't really be using anything more pricey than a semi-synth because it might be hurting your gas mileage and emissions systems due to burn off and blow by.

Furthermore, for all the "hard driving" professed to be done by members of this board, I can ******* guarantee that 80% of them have never seen any action more severe than a couple passes at the drag strip. For daily driving, highway trips, drag racing and even autocross, you don't need special oil. If you get into road racing, you probably still don't need special oil (at least mine doesn't and she's got over 250k on the original drivetrain), but it's not really going to kill you.

So unless you have some credentials that I am unaware of, i.e. anything substantial beyond your adolescent mythology, kindly stay out of these threads. Is synthetic oil and a $10 filter going to ruin your engine? Hell no. Is dino juice and a $1 filter going to ruin your engine? Hell no.

Don't waste your money.

 

One thing I forgot to add is that the most important thing IMO is the interval, I use synthetic but I still change the oil at around 3000 miles. This is because the oil will suspend contaminants, and at a certain point the oil will not be able to safely hold any more. So if you go 5000+ on any oil you are not helping yourself. Another thing to know is that the molecules themselves get sheered by the moving parts of the engine, and when a molecule gets sheered it looses its effectiveness. Synthetic because of its design/refining has a smoother molecule than conventional (like comparing marbles to granola), and therefore resists sheer better.

 

Yea ok whatever. I use the Fram Sure Grip and castrol 5w-30..But i also change my oil every 2000 miles. Never had a problem with either product..Except accidentaly double stacking the oil filter gaskets one time