Hi Everybody

Am new to honda-tech and am having a problem with my R. I can put my foot down and the car has to crawl before it starts to get power, now this is in 2nd or 3rd, obviously cant complain about higher gears cause you have already worked up speed so cant really feel a difference in that area. When I first got the car I did not notice that at all, there was plenty of power there, now it seems as though there is nothing. Got a JDM '97 Type R. Got AEM V2 Cold intake and racetech exhaust. Nothing is blocked and cant find any problems with the engine. Has anyone had this problem before or can you shed some light on the problem or perhaps point me in some kinda direction.

Thank you all very much.

 

Um since when did they release the V2 for the ITR? Also at what speed are you trying to accelerate in 2nd and 3rd gear? If you doing 10 mph in 3rd gear it will feel like eternity to get up to speed.

 

I think it was the end of last year, not sure when the V2 was released really , but only got the car in feb. Was in 3rd doing 30mph, put my foot down to speed up and the car kinda sat there waiting for something to happen. Been keeping a close eye on it ever since.

 

Checked AEMs website and unless you have a GSR manifold on your R they don't make one for it. As for the car when was the last time you did a tune up? 3rd at 30 isn't going to be the same as say 3rd at 50 or so. check plugs, air filter, fuel filter.

 

Wow I hope that doesnt mean this is a GSR Instead of an R. Had it serviced about 6 weeks ago. Did a major service as it was only imported and me being the first owner in this country.

 

Hopefully its not a GSR motor with a red valve cover or something. Check the intake manifold. If there are gaps between the runners and its concaved upwards then its a Type-R manifold but if all the runners are connected and it kinda curls over on the top its a GSR.

 

you mean your not sure now on what your car is??????????????

 

Hello

From the intake manifold it curls down (concave) to the block. Before I bought it I was checking all the forums to find out how to check between the two models and everything points towards an R. But on the engine is stamped B18C Only.


Modified by quicksupra at 10:08 AM 5/30/2005


Modified by quicksupra at 1:35 PM 5/30/2005

 

The JDM ITR block stamp is B18C. Only USDM is B18C5. If you have the rear lower tie as below, it's probably a true JDM Type R.

I'm puzzled on the intake then, as the throttle body diameter should be different for the GSR, so the V2 GSR intake would not fit. Strange. Please post more info.

Can you take a digital pic of the motor?

Does the car have a rear lower tie bar? (Underneath on the crossmember, between the rear wheels). Should be tubular with flattened ends and painted silver. Attached to bosses welded onto the crossmember. This is a good (but not infallible) way to tell if the chassis is R.


Modified by Ill at 8:13 AM 5/30/2005

 

Yeah no probs, will post some pics tonight.







Modified by quicksupra at 11:49 AM 5/30/2005

 

I think it has to do with the fuel injection, either one of them is clogged or not working. Am going to check that out anyway.

Cheers

 

hard to tell from the pics of the motor but it does not have the rear lower tie bar. Can you see any stampings on the head/block to verify?

 

Looks like an R with an R motor to me.

Only other test I can think of is to measure the throttle body throat. It should be 68mm for R (to rule out GSR TB/intake on R mani). If so, I guess the V2 intake is now available for R.

 

Wait a second this things a RHD. Hmm that makes me wonder if the V2 will fit on a RHD, although the TB diameter would still be the same

 

The only thing stamped on the block is B18C and a serial number beneath it.

If thats not the lower tie bar then where abouts is it?. I also have a bar at the back of the boot just beneath the lights. The only other way of checking is to remove the valve cover and check the numbers stamped on the valves.
I didnt really want to open the engine though. There is also a slight difference in the header where the 4 goes into 1 , on the GSR its a U shape and the R its a V shape, the clocks are also different where the red line on a GSR is 8100 and R is 8400. VTEC engagement is also different as far as I know. The blue tag on the Chassis in front of the engine bay is stapmed Type R but that can just be put there and bought off ebay. But the chassis numbers match and dont look altered in any way. Would I have to get the car diagnosed by a computer?. Or would I be able to gat a mechanic to check the fuel injectors.


Modified by quicksupra at 6:53 AM 6/1/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 01PY0559 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hard to tell from the pics of the motor but it does not have the rear lower tie bar. Can you see any stampings on the head/block to verify?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You mean it DOES have the tie bar, right?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quicksupra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://img.photobucket.com/alb...5.jpg</TD></TR></TABLE>

This pic clearly shows a Type R rear lower crossmember and tie bar! Pretty clean one too.


Yes, a mechanic should be able to check the injectors. Have you removed and examined the plugs? Do you know how many kilometers are on it?

Check your oil, and always do so frequently. Start doing some H-T searches, everything you need to know about the caR is here in the archives.

Although the Helms manual for the USDM R will not cover some specific aspects of the JDM R, it's probably still a worthwhile buy. I think we are all SOL on a JDM manual - unless you can read Japanese.

Good luck and welcome!


Modified by Ill at 8:04 AM 6/3/2005

 

You can tell that the V2 on his car is for a GSR... See how it comes upward from the tb, then back downward under the car...


Modified by 4U2NV at 5:31 PM 6/3/2005

 

yeah I was just blind and it blended in when I looked at it. One thing to think about it oil level. If the oil is low Vtec may not be engaging.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 01PY0559 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Checked AEMs website and unless you have a GSR manifold on your R they don't make one for it. As for the car when was the last time you did a tune up? 3rd at 30 isn't going to be the same as say 3rd at 50 or so. check plugs, air filter, fuel filter.</TD></TR></TABLE>

IIRC they did make it for a short period of time, however quickly discontinued it since lost HP over their regular CAI for the R.

 

Hey all

Yes did check the plugs, no problems with them. Oil is fine, no problems there, just recently got it changed. The VTEC is definately engaging, can tell by the sound of the engine. I was talking to a very good friend and he said it could be the cams, he doubts anything else could be wrong. There is 114000kms on the clock aswell.Was still thinking if I should check the injectors anyway, but didnt want to waste money, but hey she is beautiful and well worth it. Thanks to one and all for your help. I will keep you posted.

 

how could it be the cams?! the cam gears?

 

Yeah cam gears, he said if they were off/out in any way the timing would be wrong and that would mean slow responce from the engine. Why what do you think?

 

check your timing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nightrider &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check your timing. </TD></TR></TABLE>

+1 Ignition timing, and cam timing (for which you will need a dial indicator or other method to determine true TDC).

114,000K, so that's about 70K Mi? It's not time for a timing belt or anything yet. If not done already, I would definitely replace your plugs. After you check and set the timing, adjust your valves. I'd also check the dizzy cap and rotor for wear.

Plus, if you have not yet, check everything, change the trans fluid, and if the brake and clutch fluids are dirty, change them too.

 

clean your tb & intake manifold 3 cans of carb.
cleaner will do the trick usually.
After maket air filters allow dust & oil to inter into tb & intake.