I have a 1999 civic si I just dont want it to get stolen. I am thinking about getting the Viper 791vxr for my car. But some people have told me to keep the factory alarm because the new alarm is going to be about the same. I just dont want to get my car stolen. I am also going to invest in a autolock. Should I buy the 791vxr or just keep the factory alarm.

 

Your fctory alarm remote won't tell you when your car is being broken into and you are inside of a building. The 791 has a 2way remote. How many times have you walked away from your car and thought, did I lock my car. You will be able to tell by just looking at the remote. Your factory alarm also will not activate by a shock sensor. Get the 791... plain and simple.

 

get the 791xv w/ back up battery and 515r siren. I can recommend you to someone who knows what they are doing. I am in nova also. Don't go to best buy and circuit city b/c 9 out of 10 they don't know shiet

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM PRO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get the 791xv w/ back up battery and 515r siren. I can recommend you to someone who knows what they are doing. I am in nova also. Don't go to best buy and circuit city b/c 9 out of 10 they don't know shiet</TD></TR></TABLE>


I am actually going to get the alarm from best buy because I am getting my cousins discount but if you can refer me to that person maybe I can have him install it with he battery back up

 

pm me for details

 

I am the Mobile Supervisor at a Best Buy here in Iowa and I am MECP certified...guess I don't know ****. Civics don't require a brain surgeon, they are easy to work on. Where ever you go just ask if they have their MECP certification before they work on your car. JDM PRO is right, get the battery back up. I also suggest getting the pain generator, it's a small siren that will make anyone get out of the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EbpEm1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a 1999 civic si I just dont want it to get stolen. I am thinking about getting the Viper 791vxr for my car. But some people have told me to keep the factory alarm because the new alarm is going to be about the same. I just dont want to get my car stolen. I am also going to invest in a autolock. Should I buy the 791vxr or just keep the factory alarm.</TD></TR></TABLE> Why not both, most aftermarket alarms have outputs to control OEM alarms, You can leave the factory alarm in as a backup the more "layers" of protection you have the better.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM PRO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't go to best buy and circuit city b/c 9 out of 10 they don't know shiet</TD></TR></TABLE> That is a dumb *** statement, how would you know what they know at his cousins Best Buy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Loccusst &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am the Mobile Supervisor at a Best Buy here in Iowa and I am MECP certified...guess I don't know ****. Civics don't require a brain surgeon, they are easy to work on. Where ever you go just ask if they have their MECP certification before they work on your car. JDM PRO is right, get the battery back up. I also suggest getting the pain generator, it's a small siren that will make anyone get out of the car. </TD></TR></TABLE> 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Why not both, most aftermarket alarms have outputs to control OEM alarms, You can leave the factory alarm in as a backup the more "layers" of protection you have the better.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


Is that Possible?

 

i am just helping a member out and directing him to someone who I trust. I know he would not do some half *** job like most people. I have the back up battery, 515R siren(w/ built in back up battery), 2 Piezo sirens(interior), and a prox sensor. Also i still use my club for another layer of deterrent.

 

I just installed my 791xv, with the backup battery, the pain generator siren, and it took me 4 days. I am a former professional installer, and this was the best install I have ever done. The brain is well hidden and a pain in the *** to get too. All wires are taped, loomed, soldered and wired in with the factory wiring. Sirens are all hidden. NO ONE... I dont care where you are or who you work for, will install an alarm like this. If I charged someone to install their alarm like I just did mine, it would probably cost you about 1000$. Go to someone you trust to have this installed. Not some random shop, not best buy or circuit city. I dont care if you are MECP certified. MECP is bullshit. I've never been certified and ill garantee I install better than half the people that are.

Bottom line, you get what you pay for, and go with someone you really trust to install. I would offer, but your a tad far away from me. :]

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EbpEm1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Is that Possible?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes sir....I'm not an alarm expert but it can be done.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just installed my 791xv, with the backup battery, the pain generator siren, and it took me 4 days. I am a former professional installer, and this was the best install I have ever done. The brain is well hidden and a pain in the *** to get too. All wires are taped, loomed, soldered and wired in with the factory wiring. Sirens are all hidden. NO ONE... I dont care where you are or who you work for, will install an alarm like this. If I charged someone to install their alarm like I just did mine, it would probably cost you about 1000$. Go to someone you trust to have this installed. Not some random shop, not best buy or circuit city. I dont care if you are MECP certified. MECP is bullshit. I've never been certified and ill garantee I install better than half the people that are.

Bottom line, you get what you pay for, and go with someone you really trust to install. I would offer, but your a tad far away from me. :]</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good stuff....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just installed my 791xv, with the backup battery, the pain generator siren, and it took me 4 days. I am a former professional installer, and this was the best install I have ever done. The brain is well hidden and a pain in the *** to get too. All wires are taped, loomed, soldered and wired in with the factory wiring. Sirens are all hidden. NO ONE... I dont care where you are or who you work for, will install an alarm like this. If I charged someone to install their alarm like I just did mine, it would probably cost you about 1000$. Go to someone you trust to have this installed. Not some random shop, not best buy or circuit city. I dont care if you are MECP certified. MECP is bullshit. I've never been certified and ill garantee I install better than half the people that are.

Bottom line, you get what you pay for, and go with someone you really trust to install. I would offer, but your a tad far away from me. :]</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EbpEm1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Is that Possible?</TD></TR></TABLE> Yes it is, [on most cars], the alarm will have outputs for arming and disarming the factory alarm, [so you only have to use the viper remote] there are a few OEM alarms out there that interfacing them is a pain in the ***, but most are just a matter of hooking up 2 wires.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just installed my 791xv, with the backup battery, the pain generator siren, and it took me 4 days. I am a former professional installer, and this was the best install I have ever done. The brain is well hidden and a pain in the *** to get too. All wires are taped, loomed, soldered and wired in with the factory wiring. Sirens are all hidden. NO ONE... I dont care where you are or who you work for, will install an alarm like this. If I charged someone to install their alarm like I just did mine, it would probably cost you about 1000$. Go to someone you trust to have this installed. Not some random shop, not best buy or circuit city. I dont care if you are MECP certified. MECP is bullshit. I've never been certified and ill garantee I install better than half the people that are.

Bottom line, you get what you pay for, and go with someone you really trust to install. I would offer, but your a tad far away from me. :]</TD></TR></TABLE> I have been installing for over 30 years, I still solder all my connections, shrink tube where necessary, loom or tape, [depending on car] hide the brain and wiring, the only thing we charge extra for, is if we have to pull an inside fender to hide the siren.
I have also seen some crappy work come out of other shops from other installers, Even MECP certified ones, but blanket statements like "MECP is bullshit" or installers at this or that place are no good because of where they work, I sure as hell resent being lumped in with bad installers
This is another blanket statement.....

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM PRO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Don't go to best buy and circuit city b/c 9 out of 10 they don't know shiet</TD></TR></TABLE> That's "bullshit"

Stuff like that serves no purpose, it sure doesn't,t help EbpEm1, maybe the best installer in his town works at Best Buy, I know the installer at Future Shop. [Best Buy] in my town is a good installer, and does good work.

You are right about one thing though, you do get what you pay for 94

 

I agree with the more layers is better. If a pro wants your car though they will get it. Remember the basics too. Park in a well lit parking lot or under a parking lot lamp, don't leave anything in the car to tempt a thief, and actually use your alarm all the time. The alarm is only as good as the install. If you go to a shop and have it done ask him questions about the detail of his install. Ask about where he is gonna mount the brain, how he makes his connections, how does he hide the wires, stuff like that.

 

http://www.neverstolen.com/ , I was seachign and ran across this. Anyone know anything about it?

 

get a compustar, i have a viper 680vx or whatever and its really starting to **** me off.. Ive had to take it back 5 or 6 times since Ive got it for adjustments just because the thing wont stop going off.... It either goes off all the time, for NO reason, or it doesnt go off whenever someone hits it or whatever. I know mines a different alarm, but its only one step down. Plus, the compustar has a longer range, but if Best Buy doesnt sell the compustar, I guess go ahead and get the viper. :-/

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EbpEm1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.neverstolen.com/ , I was seachign and ran across this. Anyone know anything about it?</TD></TR></TABLE>As another layer it would be ok, but you notice that they say no car has been stolen by bypassing the unit with cars being stolen by "flat decking" them or "trailering" them or just towing them, a unit that makes no noise is not much good.

The problem with tests and endorsements, if you test enough times, you will get the results you want, and you only mention the ones you want, [I bet if I had 35 min. I could bypass that unit] and if you ask enough people, you will find a 100 of them that would bet their house, that a car with that unit installed can't be stolen, [they would all be out in the cold] 94

 

JDM pro... pmed for details... i'm in nova too.. and need a good installer

 

First, it's not the alarm, its the install. If you're going to get it done at Best Buy, you might as well just leave the alarm that's in it. Your car isn't going to be any safer. Your best bet is to do it yourself or pay someone ridiculous amounts of money to actually hide the alarm and wiring. If you're new to the game, check out the site in my sig. Check back in a few weeks. I'm going to cover how a beginner can make good solid wiring connections. There's going to be lots of pictures.

Best Buy/Circuit Shitty etc install the alarm as quickly as possible. That's the nature of business. They use scotch locks that are prone to fail and give away the alarm. They hang all the alarm wiring on the outside of the nearest available wiring loom. They grab the needed wires at random locations beneath the dash, leaving a spider web of wires that is impossible to conceal creating a huge vulnerability. The siren they plant in the engine bay in a location that is easily accessible. The sensor sensitivity is extremely conservative so the customer doesn't complain of false alarms. These alarm installs can be silenced in less than 15 seconds, and defeated in less than three minutes. And that's me just being careful not to scratch or damage my customer's cars!

In short, I don't mean to disparage the corporate or small time alarm installers, but their installs are only useful as a mild deterrent. They are simply ineffective at protecting the car. If your car is worth stealing, you are basically wasting your money. Keep your current alarm and install a kill switch. Maybe add some bright red visual deterrents like a wheel/steering wheel/clutch lock.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Best Buy/Circuit Shitty etc install the alarm as quickly as possible. That's the nature of business. They use scotch locks that are prone to fail and give away the alarm. They hang all the alarm wiring on the outside of the nearest available wiring loom. </TD></TR></TABLE>

just an FYI, i dont know which CC or BB you got work done at, but from my knowledge, the CC Roadshop is obligated to solder every wire connection. i believe they have the same principle at BB

the alarm installs are not necessarily "shitty". most customers come in mostly looking for a siren and keyless entry anyway. the alarm installs in my bay are not "messy" as you describe; they are clean and properly wired. though most any security feature that is installed in any behicle can be defeated, you do get what you pay for. how can you expect a top of the line stealthest of stealth installs from $100 of basic alarm installation that we charge? it could take 8hrs + to do that more.

you can actually request your alarm to be installed a specific way (where to mount the brain and siren or anything else, where applicable) but of course there is also extra labor charges that is incurred and usually that steers the customers aware from anything other than "basic" alarm installation.

 

I didn't get my car alarm installed at CC or BB and I've never worked at a professional alarm shop. However, I replace alarms primarily installed by these two stores. I'm not interested in becoming certified because I've seen a lot of hack work done by certified professionals.

I don't like to see soldered connections because the heat put on the wire can make it brittle. This isn't a problem for experienced professionals, but I see a lot of hack work done by alarm shops. I use solder for some connections, but I very much prefer noninsulated butt connectors with heat shrink.

"Spider web" wiring is considered proper. The connections are all clean except when I see the scotch locks. Do you grab all the wires in one location, such as the big bundle in the door sill? Do you loom up all your wiring? Do you cut open the factory loom and tuck your alarm wires in there? When you run a wire through the firewall, do you tuck it in with the wire bundle already going through the firewall or just run it seperately. If you can take these steps and still meet the time constraints imposed upon you by your employer, I commend you.

Really, I don't mean anything personal against you. I'm not saying you're cheating people. You're just doing your job. I don't expect a stealthy install for $100. I charge around $300 but that includes a whole security setup (kill switches, extra sirens, etc), not just the actual alarm install. 8+ hours no kidding! It takes me about two 12 hour days. All I'm saying is that the kind of install you get at a normal shop for $100 in 3 hours is ineffective. I'm sure you can do a much much better job of it if you set out on your own and start your own business. I'm sure that if you're really concerned about your car, your alarm install looks a lot like mine.

My method of installation is not a workable business model because there isn't a market for the amount I'm charging and the time it takes is unacceptable to people. This is just a temporary hobby that I'm doing for side cash and as a favor to people while the pain of getting mugged is fresh in my mind. **** THIEVES.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't get my car alarm installed at CC or BB and I've never worked at a professional alarm shop. However, I replace alarms primarily installed by these two stores. I'm not interested in becoming certified because I've seen a lot of hack work done by certified professionals.

I don't like to see soldered connections because the heat put on the wire can make it brittle. This isn't a problem for experienced professionals, but I see a lot of hack work done by alarm shops. I use solder for some connections, but I very much prefer noninsulated butt connectors with heat shrink.

"Spider web" wiring is considered proper. The connections are all clean except when I see the scotch locks. Do you grab all the wires in one location, such as the big bundle in the door sill? Do you loom up all your wiring? Do you cut open the factory loom and tuck your alarm wires in there? When you run a wire through the firewall, do you tuck it in with the wire bundle already going through the firewall or just run it seperately. If you can take these steps and still meet the time constraints imposed upon you by your employer, I commend you.

Really, I don't mean anything personal against you. I'm not saying you're cheating people. You're just doing your job. I don't expect a stealthy install for $100. I charge around $300 but that includes a whole security setup (kill switches, extra sirens, etc), not just the actual alarm install. 8+ hours no kidding! It takes me about two 12 hour days. All I'm saying is that the kind of install you get at a normal shop for $100 in 3 hours is ineffective. I'm sure you can do a much much better job of it if you set out on your own and start your own business. I'm sure that if you're really concerned about your car, your alarm install looks a lot like mine.

My method of installation is not a workable business model because there isn't a market for the amount I'm charging and the time it takes is unacceptable to people. This is just a temporary hobby that I'm doing for side cash and as a favor to people while the pain of getting mugged is fresh in my mind. **** THIEVES.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes everything youre saying is so true. i'm not taking anythign personal just noting some things. its just that its not exactly CC or BB fault. I mean like you said, there is no market for it. And certainly, big retailers like those would never do such a exquisite install for just $100 and to do it in a timely manner daily is just nearly impossible.

MOst people are so discouraged by the price markups when they want something other than "basic" and they just rather save money. though, it is very true that if they really wanted your car, they will get it. but its just how hard you make it for them (other than towing; cause i have experience with that bIsh and its just a matter of minutes before its on the truck)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGPrelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yes everything youre saying is so true. i'm not taking anythign personal just noting some things. its just that its not exactly CC or BB fault. I mean like you said, there is no market for it. And certainly, big retailers like those would never do such a exquisite install for just $100 and to do it in a timely manner daily is just nearly impossible.

MOst people are so discouraged by the price markups when they want something other than "basic" and they just rather save money. though, it is very true that if they really wanted your car, they will get it. but its just how hard you make it for them (other than towing; cause i have experience with that bIsh and its just a matter of minutes before its on the truck)</TD></TR></TABLE>What gets me is, the same guy that ***** a brick when you give him a quote on labor to do the extra work to hide the alarm real good is the same guy that paid the extra $250 for the better alarm, and is the same one that has no problem blowing an extra grand for a better paint job on the car, and that goes for almost anything you can get, it has to be Momo it can't be the no name brand, they will have no problem spending an extra $100 or more at a better machine shop to get head work done, and many will pay in the 1000s for installation of big audio/video systems with any kind of custom work that they can see, but have heart failure when you tell them what it would cost to do the alarm the "right" way.
If all he wants to pay me is a $100 to do the alarm, about 2.5hr of work, then that is what he gets, a basic install, if he is willing to pay the 6-15 hrs, [depending on car] that ICBC, [our gov. car insurence] pays @ $52 per hr to R&R a dash, I will pull the dash and install the alarm.

All that said, there is no reason not to do the "basic" install neat and clean, you can hide the alarm and wiring pretty good, all the connections can be soldered, you sure as hell don't have to cut into wiring any place, [so you don't need elec. tape or shrink tube unless it's to hide wire] in most cars it's not hard to run alarm wiring in the oem harnesses or looms, [ a few custom made "snakes", it's amasing what kind of "tools" you can make from a busted car ant.] And the one thing that I see the most on "shitty" alarm installs is, the installer did not remove the unused wires on the alarm, I mean ,come on, what the hell do you need the pos. (+) door trigger wire for on an alarm installed in a Honda/Acura 94