Hey Guys,
I'm doing my timing belet and I couldn't get the vrank puley bolt out as usual so i looked around and found this.


I put a bar resting on the front frame rail and the put a bolt under and over it preventing the pulley from moving. The top bolt was hard to see in the pics so I circled it in black. Then I put a jack stand under the extension to make sure it didnt flex too much and break. It took ten seconds of pushing with only a 3 foot bar to get the job done and I didn't even use any WD40 or PB.


Really easy, and the bolts didnt do any damage to the pulley. A great way to do it if you can't gain access to an impact wrench.

This is meant to be used as a tool for people searching for methods to do this with, The 5th gear, hop in the brakes didnt work for me. Good luck guys!

~Matt

 

Good stuff! I feel for all of you that don't have accesss to a good impact gun.

 

Nice trick. I would hate doing that with extensions reaching out that far. Lucky I can use air when I do mine.

 

try a 1/2 drive instead of a 3/4. saves on rachets

 

You mean 3/8"?

 

on my d-series, I just unbolt the flywheel cover, stick a bolt in the flywheel, and crank. It will get stuck on the block and break the crank pully bolt free. only down side is the bolt u use bends a bit. works for me. never had a problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UltimX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on my d-series, I just unbolt the flywheel cover, stick a bolt in the flywheel, and crank. It will get stuck on the block and break the crank pully bolt free. only down side is the bolt u use bends a bit. works for me. never had a problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

But you have to remove your transmission housing from the block itself. This way is so much easier. However I just used a tool that wedged on the crank pulley itself and had two bars to break the bolt off. Easy way to do it.

 

no u dont.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX-Fluffy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

But you have to remove your transmission housing from the block itself. This way is so much easier. However I just used a tool that wedged on the crank pulley itself and had two bars to break the bolt off. Easy way to do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UltimX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no u dont.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Well you dont have to remove the trans, you can either take out the starter and stab a screwdriver in there on remove the flywheel cover in the B-series on the bosttom of the trans. side. This was the simplest way I've found in the three times I've done this.

Edit: Oh yeah, I thought for sure the Extension was going to break since it was only 3/8 and it's 20 inches long (kind of like my dong ) but the jackstand helped it to stop flexing.

 

I use a chain wrench wedged under the LCA with a breaker bar. Gets it every time.

 

Great info

 

yeah and guess what happened when my bro tried that on his crx.... his crank pulley pretty much shattered where the bolt was... i suggest not doing this

 

well that sucks. mine never even bends or cuts into my pully...something must have gone wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16CRXT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use a chain wrench wedged under the LCA with a breaker bar. Gets it every time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i have the same thing....harbor freight tools..

 

yes this will break the crank pullies. Some do some don't but it will eventually. I used to use 3/8 extensions through 2 holes and it was great most of the time, but has broken some. I have moved to b series since then and this will not work for them. I always use a sledge on the bolt itself like 5 or so really good smacks then impact it off.

 

It seems to me though, that if your crank pulley breaks from this, then there has got to be something else wrong with it, right? Because it didnt even make a mark in my pulley

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UltimX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on my d-series, I just unbolt the flywheel cover, stick a bolt in the flywheel, and crank. It will get stuck on the block and break the crank pully bolt free. only down side is the bolt u use bends a bit. works for me. never had a problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats what I do

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madhatter07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It seems to me though, that if your crank pulley breaks from this, then there has got to be something else wrong with it, right? Because it didnt even make a mark in my pulley</TD></TR></TABLE>

he said that it broke around where the bolt is. That doesnt make any sense if you are loosening the bolt and holding the pulley stationary.

BTW: Those holes that you screwed bolts into...are they threaded?

 

No they arent threaded, the bolts just fit in there nicely, they were actually honda Wheel studs!

P.S. I saw your in Greenville, I got ot Clemson

 

I had a situation where it was not in my best interests to use an impact gun. My timing belt tensioner pulley was broken, and my timing belt was slipping badly. I did not want the engine to turn over and bend my valves, so I needed an option that would hold the crank pulley absolutely still.

I just bought this tool along with a 24" breaker bar, and it works beautifully. This tool is specifically designed for pre-'92 Honda Civic crank pulleys. I used it on my D16A6. It has a round end that fits into the center hole of the crank pulley, and a slider pin that fits into one of the smaller holes around the crank pulley. Allow the tool to wedge against the ground or the frame and your crank pulley isn't going anywhere. You then put your 17mm socket and breaker bar on the bolt and go nuts.

http://www.etoolcart.com/index...=1217

 

yeah i wish i had bought a tool but i didnt think that far ahead and needed to get it off, im sure the tool would work better.