Before flaming, I have searched. I just want to know what kind of spring rates people are running---I have read all about how to chose and I have a good idea of what I want. I want to know what people are living with on a daily basis. I have an opportunity to pick up some DC2 Tein Basics for my EG, which is a bonus because I get the extra rate associated with the DC2 setup. This setup is 8K/6K, and I feel very confident that would still be livable on the streets while giving me adequate performance when I hit the track. So....

What rate are you running on what kind of car? How is it?

 

i had a freind who had the tein basic on his EK coupe, he hated them. and when i drove his car it sucked also. the ride was plushy but the performance was lack luster.

So he upgraded to the DC2 basic, perfomance was a little better, but nothing still wasn't that good.

The basic were fine for a plush ride, but really were nothing at all in the performace area which isn't suprising since there not for preformance.

All in all he ended up selling them off and going back to his koni and ground control setup.

this was 4 or 5 yaers ago when teins were just making there way into the US market and he paid upwards of 900 bucks for them back then, which after driving with them installed we new they were not worth that. now there price of 700 is better, i guess.


now on to you "what rates" question. I ran KYB AGX and GC with integra rates (with an LS swap), and SRR sway bar. and that was fine, ride was fine, performance was fine on the street also.

I then switch to Koni yellows and GC with 380-450 with the comptech rear sway bar was alot firmer then the pervious setup but was still fine.


I know have a d16 back in the car with koni yellows SPSS3 valving, and GC coil overs with 600f 800r spring rates and the comptech rear sway bar. I haven't driven the car yet with this setup so i can't comment on how it feels.

 

I was worried about the plush ride, so I wasn't going to buy basics for the EG. But the rates for the DC2 are comparable to the flex setup for the EG.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suprfast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1990 crx si
ground control 450f/600r
koni yellows
yes, street driven
kris</TD></TR></TABLE>

those are nice rates. i wish i would of had gotten stiffer rates.

kyb agx with 350/450 ground controls.
it's stiff, but its okay. i wouldnt mind 500/800.
i would still drive it on the streets. the problem with the 800 is i would have to revalve koni yellows to handle those rates and that more money :\

teins are okay

if i were u, i'd get the koni yellows with gc's. tein rates are soo..ugggh. they like oversteer. if you read up on spring rates, you should know that if the rear rates are higher than the front, it helps rotate the car easier. another reason why people get high rates in the back and a thick *** sway bar.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eMpAtHy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

those are nice rates. i wish i would of had gotten stiffer rates.

kyb agx with 350/450 ground controls.
it's stiff, but its okay. i wouldnt mind 500/800.
i would still drive it on the streets. the problem with the 800 is i would have to revalve koni yellows to handle those rates and that more money :\

teins are okay

if i were u, i'd get the koni yellows with gc's. tein rates are soo..ugggh. they like oversteer. if you read up on spring rates, you should know that if the rear rates are higher than the front, it helps rotate the car easier. another reason why people get high rates in the back and a thick *** sway bar.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Teins rates are lower in the back...the car should be close to neutral with the right sway bar setup and I could actually probably dial in some oversteer with a thicker rear bar. With these rates alone I won't be oversteering.

 

so your tein rates are 8k f/6k r,
that means 450lbs/in f, 335 lbs/in r...

I would say that the rates are fine, but i highly reccomend switching them front to rear as rear to front.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnnyWash1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Teins rates are lower in the back...the car should be close to neutral with the right sway bar setup and I could actually probably dial in some oversteer with a thicker rear bar. With these rates alone I won't be oversteering.</TD></TR></TABLE>

All hondas have excessive understeer, I doubt that using the tein set up with a sway bar will neutralize the understeer and oversteer.
I personally love the koni/GC setup, similar spring rates to your tein rates, but swaped front to rear.

Koni Yellows
Ground Control 375 Front/450 Rear
Oem si front sway bar
Comptech 22mm rear sway bar
still have lil understeer.

I would love to have 450 Front/ 650 rear, but then i will have to get my konis revalved.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Naturally Aspirated &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so your tein rates are 8k f/6k r,
that means 450lbs/in f, 335 lbs/in r...

I would say that the rates are fine, but i highly reccomend switching them front to rear as rear to front.


All hondas have excessive understeer, I doubt that using the tein set up with a sway bar will neutralize the understeer and oversteer.
I personally love the koni/GC setup, similar spring rates to your tein rates, but swaped front to rear.

Koni Yellows
Ground Control 375 Front/450 Rear
Oem si front sway bar
Comptech 22mm rear sway bar
still have lil understeer.

I would love to have 450 Front/ 650 rear, but then i will have to get my konis revalved.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I have always read that to achieve neutrality with springs you must account for the weight distribution of the car. Since my car is likely 60% or more front heavy, I need the extra rate in front to achieve neutral balance. This is all speculation until I get the car corner-weighted, of course.

 

I was running 10k (560lb/in) springs all around, Koni Yellows, no front sway, and Suspension Tech. rear sway for over a year on the streets. Insane lift throttle oversteer, I basically used the throttle to decide which direction the nose pointed at all times with slight steering modulation. The chassis was extremely sensitive to the slightest throttle inputs. I loved the setup in terms of handling and car feel, but I found a job quite far from my home and after half a year of commuting 100+ miles a day I started to wear out. I got tired of hitting my head on the roof (im 6'1") and after having some health problems with my internals (no joke, relamy intestines were bleeding) I decided to go soft.
Right now I'm still running the 10K springs in the front, although in the rear I have put in some 235lb/in springs. I took out my rear swaybar also as it was starting to pull on my subframe even with the prior 10k rear springs (ST rear sway). Right now, with no front or rear sways and 10k front springs and ~5k rear springs, the car feels like ***, although it still grips, but its a night and day difference between chassis stability and comfort. However, I can't make the rear come out. The e-brake hardly will convince the rear end to break. I'm going to get either the A-spec kit or the comptech kit and I think I'll have a decent street machine.

 

i m running koni yellow with 560lb front and 800lbs rear. with 19mm ST rear sway.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by frozenb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i m running koni yellow with 560lb front and 800lbs rear. with 19mm ST rear sway.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

for those rates, the sway bar seems really "soft"

 

civic 97
h r sports 330f/280r
kyb agx shocks
13mm si rear bar

too stiff for me!! hehe

 

GC/OTS Konis 450/550 street driven track *****.

i could probably live with more spring, but don't think the dampers can.

if it was track dedicated i'd probably be in the 700/1000 area with SPSS3 konis.

you will never achieve "neutral" handling on a honda with higher spring rates in the front without having a very large rear sway or some other compensatory mod (like 225's in front 195's rear, or 3 dead bodies in the trunk). the differential F-R is a matter of preference, but the natural understeering tendencies of the car (brought about by the FF layout) require some voodoo to get the car to handle neutral.