Ok, So im told the ssauto is crap which i believe. But in many posts it seems the reason it cracks is it can not hold the weight of the turbo and the stress cracks it. In your opinion do you think this will help out. I dont have the cash for a new one so this will have to do till it breaks down on me.


>
>
>
MANIFOLD AND TURBO
>
>
>

>
>
>
PLATE STEEL TACKED IN PLACE FROM DOWNPIPE FLANGE TO STOCK HEADER HELPER BRACKET
>
>
>

>
>
>
BRACKET FINISHED AND REPLACED
>
>
>

>
>
>
THIS IS JUST A VIEW OF COMPRESSOR
>
>
>

 

looks strong man

 

looks like the same compressor cover as my car....(gt32e)

 

looks like it would be okay, let us know!

but it really looks like you have a nice *** turbo, i would hate to see a thread where it has been drug down the road show up on here in 3 weeks!


J/K should be okay

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks like it would be okay, let us know!

but it really looks like you have a nice *** turbo, i would hate to see a thread where it has been drug down the road show up on here in 3 weeks!


J/K should be okay</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL yeah i live in the middle of no-where and i have also created an earlier thread on a security key i am making which will help alot. but thanks for your concern

p.s. theyll have to drag me with it.

 

I dont think thats a very good way to do it. The turbo will not be able to move at all (except side to side) when the manifold expands, may make the cracking worse but i guess its worth a try.

 

if it does break will it be easy to remove that bracket?

 

Is the bracket only welded to the downpipe flange? If so, than I think it will work well

If it's as strong at it looks it would support the turbo even without the manifold.

Nice job, I like seeing creative ways to solve common problems.

 

what if the manifold wants to expand way from the head? That bracket is super stiff, the manifold will be the weak link and crack i bet.

 

I would of made the Bracket Bolt to the Downpipe Flange.....

eric

 

This is why i posted before i finished this project. VEry good ideas about header movement, i never even thought of that.

And yes it is currently attached to the downpipe.

So how about this. Since I have planty of room on the left side of bracket, How about i cut and weld a 1" round 3/8" thick bushing towrds the front of the flange.
I could then redo my bracket to extend under the downpipe and up to the bushing.
Cutting a hole in the new bracket to fit over the bushing therfor giving it a pivot point while still holding the weight.

Thanks again for the information and brainstorming with me. I think this new idea may very well work. Ill produce this new bracket tomorrow night and hopefully have some new pics up.

Im going to go work on a small diagram to post to give a better detail to the idea.

 

 

Ya that idea sounds better to me, i think i get it anyway.

The best case scenario would be hanging the turbo like a pendulum, but bottom mount turbos don't make it easy. I think letting it 'sit' on a pivot point so the turbo can rock but not hang off the manifold would be a good compromise considering the ease of fabrication.

 

rather than have it come off the Dp flange why not have it go to the center section so its more evenly balanced. I made a little plate for mine so i could attach a pivot point to the oil feed flange and one water port.

lots of factory T3s come with a turbine clamp plate thingy that has an 8mm threaded hole in it, perfect for your pivot point.

 

Looks like that will do!

My SSauto been holding for 8-9 months! Still no problem with the plain o bracing!

Im sure manifold will expand, but not to an extent where things will move drastically!

Just make sure take your time to bore out the collector and clean it up a bit, kinda messy with the welds in there.. And bore out the WG hole also! Its messy in there!

Other then that, no problems for me!

Good to see another, trying this manifold out with no fear. Doesnt hurt if it works, would it? Even better !

Goodluck!

 

Brace the turbo like the manifold isn't even there. Cut slots in the manifold flange holes to allow for expansion. Torque all bolts to spec. Done. The SSAC manifold is probably thin enough to flex enough (given you slot the holes) to allow for what little thermal expansion there is. Any bushings or play in the bracket totally defeats the purpose of having a bracket to support the weight.

 

not really true Loco, you want to take the weight off yes, but the turbo need to be able to move a little, look at any drag car with a tubular stainless manifold. usually they are hung with heim joints so there is play in every plane but vertical. The longer the manifold the more play you will need. Im not saying this brace wont work, or wont extend the life of this doomed manifold, just saying that there is room for improvment. I do agree cutting the head flange should help reduce some stresses also.

this is my setup, 2 heims and a brace off the head and engine mount.

 

Here we go and I will probably get flamed for this!

I bought one a few months ago without researcing the company because it looked good on e-bay, and allowed me to get a tubular manifold and keep my A/C. It cracked several times because I did not brace it or use a stainless flex tube in the downpipe. I have welded it back using a mig welder and it continued to crack. Here is what I did to fix it: I added a bracket like yours, I added a stainless flex line in the downpipe, I removed the factory braces on the manifold and welded in mild steel 1inch x 1/4inch L-angle. So far it has worked.

The last time it craked, I contacted SSAC and they told me there was no warranty because I welded on it. I was going to just get a different one but then I would have to remake all of my cold and hot piping to and from the turbo as a different manifold would change the position of everything. Instead I chose to just try and fix this one again.

If I had it to do over again I would have done more research and went with a reputabale company but now I have it and will keep it if it will last. The next time, I will probably build my own as I have the equipment and the ability.

 

thats why there are honda tech bandwagons......people don't just get on a bandwagon because the parts suck...they do it because they are proven to work, and work well!

 

yeah as 200cs said i fell pray to the same thing. I do have alot of money wrapped up in this setup so I am disappointed in myself for this mistake, but i have also hit the end of my piggy bank so im have to go with what i have.

Thanks to everyone for your help and suggestions.

As far as cutting the manifold flange, does anyone have a pic of the position in which i should make the cuts? Its 3 cuts between each runner right? But do i make the cuts directly thru the bolt holes? Thanks again.

 

I notice most break their manifold, due to the lack of having a flex pipe after the exhaust. Cmon guys. Common sense! No Manifold will survive under extreme condition and engine flexes!

But yep... It can work many ways, just get a flex pipe!!J@"P!@)()#*!

 

if your worried about cracking like others have said, go to home depot and buy some small rubber washers to go on either side of the bolt for the header bracket, that way it still supports the weight but allows for a littel expansion.