Slave cyclinder replacing need diagram ASAP PLZ
My car is currently sitting on the street 11 miles from me and what i believe happened was being the idiot i am i forgot to fill/maintain the clutch fluid. So the pedal is stuck at the floor and of coarse I can't get it out of gear. I tried filling it/bleeding and since it drained all the way I think the left over 'gunk' clogged the slave cycl or the master cycle. Does anyone have the diagram from a helms manuel you can post? I haven't recieved mine yet and I don't want to leave my car on the street much longer. Thanks.
dont need a diagram man... the two bolts on the front of the slave hold it on. undo those, and the line on the top, and it comes right off. just put the new one on, and bleed it. bam, done.
I heard it's that simple but I was just hoping for a diagram because I don't know what tools I need and I won't exactly be working on the car at my house...its definately on the street in some sketchy area...Anything else? Thanks
Don't forget the flare nut wrenches if you're going to be removing any hydraulic lines. Regular wrenches will **** those things up.....
Just bring a good assortment of metric tools otherwise.
Just bring a good assortment of metric tools otherwise.
Thanks, But I'm going to have to get my hands on a helms or diagram first because I have no clue what the hell I'm doing...Anyone still?
Anyone? please or can someone tell me the tools and wtf to do? EVERY place doesn't have a helms manuel for my car ive tried 5 different autozones and pep boys
I have the Helms right here---
1. Remove the reservior hose from the clutch MC and drain the brake fluid into a suitable container. Brake fluid can be sucked out with a syringe.
2. Remove the clutch reservior.
3. Disconnect the clutch pipe from the clutch MC.
4. (from inside the car at the clutch pedal)--Pry out the cotter pin, and pull the pedal pin out of the yoke. Remove the nuts.
5. Remove the clutch MC.
6. Install the clutch MC in the reverse order of removal. Bleed the clutch system.
It's easy
1. Remove the reservior hose from the clutch MC and drain the brake fluid into a suitable container. Brake fluid can be sucked out with a syringe.
2. Remove the clutch reservior.
3. Disconnect the clutch pipe from the clutch MC.
4. (from inside the car at the clutch pedal)--Pry out the cotter pin, and pull the pedal pin out of the yoke. Remove the nuts.
5. Remove the clutch MC.
6. Install the clutch MC in the reverse order of removal. Bleed the clutch system.
It's easy
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Thats for the master cyclinder. I need to replace the slave cyclinder to the left of the battery. The bolts are nearly impossible to do without taking out the radiator.
you definitly need to bite the bullet and pull or tow the car home, bleeding a clutch on the side of the road sucks.. and no the slave cylinder will come out very easly without taking out the raditor.. are u sure thats the problem tho, judging from your last post you've had a leak for awhile, if that the case, 9 times out of 10, the MC goes out with the slave cylinder, or usually right after. In fact the helms recommends replacing both at the same time. I believe that how most dealers do it as well.
I'd love to replace them both but I need a helms manuel and the problem is I need to either fix the car by tomorrow or I'm going to have to get it fixed
And I swear to you no one has the f'ing prelude 5th gen helms manuel, and by no one i mean pep boys and autozone or any store near me.
Looks like I'm going to have to pay someone to do it unless I can get an online helms pdf or unless someone posts a diagram. thanks
And I swear to you no one has the f'ing prelude 5th gen helms manuel, and by no one i mean pep boys and autozone or any store near me. Looks like I'm going to have to pay someone to do it unless I can get an online helms pdf or unless someone posts a diagram. thanks

Bottom left corner of the picture.
The bleeder screw should be 8mm, the 2 bolts should be 10 or 12mm.
Then bring a 10, 12, 14mm crescent wrenches as well, the lines one of those 3 sizes.
When taking the line off I advise you to hit the wrench to break the line loose.
If you apply steady pressure you can strip the nut where the line connects
as stated before.
Bring a friend and some break fluid so you can mess with the clutch while he
fill the resevior.
Hopefully the slave cylinder is your problem. good luck
thanks a lot guys I think I can knock this out tomorrow. But one more question, how/what tools did you use to take out the 2 screws connecting the the slave cycle to the block? It's at a really weird angle and a swivel ractchet won't do the stop. Did you go from under or on top of the car?
And I'm assuming for the master cycl the bolt is in the foot rest near the pedal? Thanks again.
And I'm assuming for the master cycl the bolt is in the foot rest near the pedal? Thanks again.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by damonk »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks a lot guys I think I can knock this out tomorrow. But one more question, how/what tools did you use to take out the 2 screws connecting the the slave cycle to the block? It's at a really weird angle and a swivel ractchet won't do the stop. Did you go from under or on top of the car?
And I'm assuming for the master cycl the bolt is in the foot rest near the pedal? Thanks again.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just replaced both the master and slave cylinder on my 5th gen. the other day.. You can use a normal ratchet to get the bolts out for the slave cylinder. Tip: Remove the hose fitting before you take off the 2 bolts holding the slave cylinder on.
If I were you, I'd put the car in 1st gear and use the starter to bump start it so that you can limp it home or at least to a place that isn't in the ghetto. It's not difficult to rev match without a clutch if you need to shift, just don't force it in gear and you'll be OK. It's not good for the starter, but it won't hurt anything to do it a couple times.
Good luck.
And I'm assuming for the master cycl the bolt is in the foot rest near the pedal? Thanks again.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just replaced both the master and slave cylinder on my 5th gen. the other day.. You can use a normal ratchet to get the bolts out for the slave cylinder. Tip: Remove the hose fitting before you take off the 2 bolts holding the slave cylinder on.
If I were you, I'd put the car in 1st gear and use the starter to bump start it so that you can limp it home or at least to a place that isn't in the ghetto. It's not difficult to rev match without a clutch if you need to shift, just don't force it in gear and you'll be OK. It's not good for the starter, but it won't hurt anything to do it a couple times.
Good luck.
I can't drive it 11 miles like that and on the freeway
I'm going to give it another shot, if it doesn't work I have to tow it. It looks simple enough except for bleeding the clutch and those 2 bolt which honda placed strategically under the radiator fan and below the radiator hose. Thanks guys.
I'm going to give it another shot, if it doesn't work I have to tow it. It looks simple enough except for bleeding the clutch and those 2 bolt which honda placed strategically under the radiator fan and below the radiator hose. Thanks guys.
what gear is she stuck in ? i vote bump start and limp it home or rev match. you can still pull it out of gear when the car is running without using the clutch. how do you expect to tow it with the front wheels locked if the car is lowered and you need a flat bed ? just drag it up the ramp ?
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