Well over the weekend I was Auto-xing and my first 2 runs went well. And on the 3rd run i launched and brought 1st gear up to redline and went to shift into 2nd and Nothing!!! (liked i'm locked out) So i try 2-3 more times... nothing. I end up double clutching it and I finally get in gear. I finish the run. I park the car and leave it for a wile (in between sessions) I go out before it time for my 2nd set and i still get nothing.
So i baby the car home. I was able to get home with skiping 3rd and 4,5 engaged ok.
THere is this "whirring" Sound when i depress the clutch. Now that sounds like the throw out bearing. But would a TOB make it hard/impossible to engage a gear?
Any help would be greatly appreacheted. I sure hope that i don't have to rebuild the tranny, yet.

Thanks
Kenlude97

 

Ken, does it engage in 1st, 4-5th ok? and is 2-3 the only gears that don't work properly?

 

Yea it engages 1st no problem... But that it when the car is stopped and it will do any gear nicely when stopped. Well 4-5 are a little better than 2-3 but not "normal"....

My thoughts are that it could be the T.O.B. or the pressure plate?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KENLUDE97 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Yea it engages 1st no problem... But that it when the car is stopped and it will do any gear nicely when stopped. Well 4-5 are a little better than 2-3 but not "normal"....

My thoughts are that it could be the T.O.B. or the pressure plate? </TD></TR></TABLE>

sounds a little bit like my problem a couple of months ago. one of the springs on the hub had popped out and was rubbing against the flywheel making it impossible for the clutch to full disengage from the gears and making it hard to shift gears. replaced the clutch and it was fine.

i was told that it's a result of popping the clutch too hard. i can believe something like that would happen at an a/x.

could also be the t/o, but it def sounds like the clutch isn't fully disengaging.

 

Thanks bad-mankey. I guess that it is time to pull the tranny. Thank goodness for the Escort beater!

What clutch did you put in?

I was thinking of just putting in a HONDA OEM clutch. I mean it lasted 120k and a good part of that was hard driving and Auto-x and drag.

Thanks for the help. And if ANYONE else has any thoughts PLEASE let me know.

 

if its 2nd and 3rd giving you problesm i doubt its an internal issue ..im leanin more towards pressure plate too

 

Well i think that i will pull the inspection plate tonight and hopefully give me a idea on what is going on.

 

ken, the oem clutch is a good peice, but you will ruin it quickly on the track, they dont hold up to the beating quite as well, but they will last the longest if you drive easy on them....

i would say go with the organic exedy, its a nice clutch, not too harsh and it can take a beating...

just make sure you get the one that is a full circle, not a puck thing.....

 

Well the OEM clutch has 120k on it and 3 seasons on it from auto-x and a bunch of drag passes. And it is CHEAP!!!
With just buying a house last fall i do NOT have $$ to upgrade to a clutch that when the oem seams to do quite well?

 

wow well it sounds like it lasted you well.....so stick with it....

all i was saying is i love the exedy......

 

I looked up the Exedy clutch. It just about the same price as the OEM clutch. I just might go with it!
Do you race much with that Clutch?

 

TTT


Any other thoughts out there?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by machine4321 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if its 2nd and 3rd giving you problesm i doubt its an internal issue ..im leanin more towards pressure plate too</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm about to say the same thing.
if your clutch is bad then you can't shift in all of the gears not only 2nd and 3rd. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KENLUDE97 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">TTT


Any other thoughts out there?</TD></TR></TABLE>

check the clutch first to see if it's still fine or not and then remove your tranny,
and here is how you do it.

start the engine, depress the clutch pedal completely, and shift into first gear. Do not release the clutch, then shift into neutral and wait 5 seconds before attempting to shift smootly into reverse.
It should take no more than 5 seconds for the clutch disc, input shaft, and tranny gears to come to a complete stop after disengagement.
if the shift into reverse causes gear clash, your clutch is bad. if it goes into reverse, 1st, and 4-5 smootly but 2nd and 3rd, your tranny has a problem.

 

i have the same problem,difference is i feel vibration on my floorboard like something is vibrating in my tranny,some say its my synchros,some say it could be clutch or pressure plate,i ran it at the track,on my last run,i felt vibration,my previous runs it ran fine,thing is the vibration or not it still got into gears fine,the next day i tried racing it and it wouldnt go into gears at high rpm,only low rpm,so i dont know im up in the air bout what it is

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22slohatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have the same problem,difference is i feel vibration on my floorboard like something is vibrating in my tranny,some say its my synchros,some say it could be clutch or pressure plate,i ran it at the track,on my last run,i felt vibration,my previous runs it ran fine,thing is the vibration or not it still got into gears fine,the next day i tried racing it and it wouldnt go into gears at high rpm,only low rpm,so i dont know im up in the air bout what it is </TD></TR></TABLE>

. if your clutch disc or pressure plate are bad that cause the vibrations, it should occur at normal engine operating speeds (more than 1,500 Rpm). your flywheel bolts also might be loose.

 

also if your synchronizer is the problem that causes vibration, it should stop when the clutch is disengaged or when all gears are in neutral.

 

i have vibrations at idle too.i hope its just my clutch or pressure plate

 

ill try tranny fluid first,then clutch then my tranny!

 

well i got the tranny out of the car. The pressure plate "looks" good. Is there anything obvious that i should look for?

I'm in the process of taking the tranny apart to inspect the syncros, shift forks, gears. But there is one question. When the tranny is sitting on the large diameter (clutch covering end) there are 2 large diameter plugs that you use a 3/8" drive and a 1/2" drive to remove. I get them both off no problem. And the one has a snap ring in it. The other has some sort of disk in there.... Now this is a M2b4 tranny and i only have a manual for a 5th gen Lude and it does NOT have this 2nd plug. If there is anyone that know how to remove this port let me know.

THANKS
Ken

 

dont worry about any other ones ..just the snap ring

the other is for the oil galley but it doesnt need to be removed

 

your going to have to use the snap ring pliers to undo that snap ring to get the case apart. i'm pretty sure you dont have to worry about the other plug. ... edit: ehh im stupid didn't see when its sitting on the fat end haha

 

UPDATE i finally had a chance to split the case.

Heres the clutch... Its looks pretty good. I still plan on replacing it wile the tranny is out.



All the gears and syncros look ok. Nothing is wearing un evenly or too fast. The only thing that i found is a Syncro clip that was stuck to the magnet! As you can see it hanging off the Mag in the first pic.






Here is what it looked like when i pulled it out.


Any thoughts? Do we think that this would have casued my issue?

 

ttt