This is a long post so bear with me. It all started out with my buddies 94 GSR with a B18C motor in it. The car would start up and rev between 3000rpm's and 1000 rpm's. The ECU threw a code 3, a MAP sensor, since no one ever heard of one going bad we tired other things. We replaced the IAT sensor, that didnt solve anything, disconnected the TPS and the idle calmed down. Pluged the TPS back in and the car acted normally. A few hours later the car's idle was very very low, checked the plugs and they needed to be replaced, black and covered in soot, the electrode was pretty worn too. Same thing after that, replaced the O2 sensor and still ran very very rich, however the car would go into open loop and drove fine, however the car should not idle normal when coming to a stop, the car would stall out. Got another MAP sensor off one of his buddies, put it in, no difference.


Today we decided to pull the cap off the car and clean the contacts, and clean the TB. When taking off the TB we disconneted the Map sensor, the TPS and the FIAC (coolent hoses). We noticed who ever serviced the car before used clear sealent between the gasket and the TB. I cleaned it with break cleaner and carb cleaner, taking the map off first. What we discovered was this. The tiny hole that the map reads off inside the TB was compleatly clogged with clear sealent (following the trail behind the gasket on the TB leands to a small hole on the inside of the TB, that was clogged), making the map i belive unable to read any air entering the motor. I Put a SMALL amount of grey RVT and reinstalled the TB.


The car started, ran for about 4 seconds and quit out. Now thinking somthing was wrong, we checked for spark, no spark at all. We have fuel pressure, ~40 psi, car cranks but no spark. After we installed the TB on the car we removed the backup fuse and the ECU fuse from inside the engine bay. We took the cap off the distrubutor and hooked a simple jumper (aligator clip) to the "coil sping" and grounded it against the exhaust maninfold. there was a tiny tiny spark.


Did somthing happen to the distrubtor during this process or is this unrelated? Any help, OHM readings, testing ideas would be great. I would love to have this car leave my driveway now because its not drivable right now!


Thanks,

Tim

 

First off, to solve that fluctuating idle problem check your vacuum routing. On the underside of your hood there should be a vacuum diagram. If there isn't a diagram under there, there is one in a Helms, Chiltons, or Haynes manual for your car (you should have one of these anyway). Remember, ANY extra air will confuse the ECU. Check for cracked or bad vacuum hoses. If in doubt just replace the hose, they are cheap.

The PCV valve could also be the culprit. Take it out and examine it. If it is cracked it could be causing a vacuum leak. Replace the peice if you arent completely sure it is ok (the helms/chiltons/haynes manuals tell you how to check it).

Even its a rare occurance, check that TPS sensor.. it may be bad. Probe the middle wire on the TPS plug (with the key on but not running, and the plug still connected to the sensor) with the + probe on the volt meter, and the neg probe to ground. You should have .5v with a fully closed throttle plate and 4.8v with it wide open. If the TPS is off, replace it.

Also, check ALL grounds. All your attempts to start the car may have drained the battery a bit. Although spark wouldnt cause the idle to coming and down like that, it can cause a rich mixture. Check TIMING, check COIL, check CAP and ROTOR and check the plugs again. hope this helps some.

 

would like to figure out why the car doesnt start right now and why there isnt any spark

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by [626 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">95-GSR]

Also, check ALL grounds. All your attempts to start the car may have drained the battery a bit. Although spark wouldnt cause the idle to coming and down like that, it can cause a rich mixture. Check TIMING, check COIL, check CAP and ROTOR and check the plugs again. hope this helps some.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

test the ignitor.. ive had like 5 of them go on me

 

where is that located? how to test it?

 

its inside your distributor... get a helms manual. it will tell you how to test the ignitor.

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HoUTX98GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">test the ignitor.. ive had like 5 of them go on me </TD></TR></TABLE>

it sounds like the ICM or coil. I have had both go out....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HoUTX98GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">test the ignitor.. ive had like 5 of them go on me </TD></TR></TABLE>

yup.. im on my 3rd... pull the cap and rotor off the distributar and the ignitor is behind it... very simple to replace.. i would get a new cap and rotor from Honda while doing this to make sure you will have good spark.. good luck

 

make it a little easier... borrow a distributor for like 5 mins.. find a freinds or someting and put it on and see if that helps. since you dont know how to test and know where the ignitor is.. dont mess it up if it isnt. just borrow a distributor and see from there.

 

have the same problem.. dist on its way.. perros

 

as soon as i get my sh//t going im breaking heads...