synthetic or non synthetic oil
i just threw some of that valvoline syn power fully synthetic blahblablah.... it definitly leaks out my cam seal a bit more but no smells of burning oil at all... too bad its a 40+ dollar oil change.. ill keep using it till i get cheap
does anyone know if its true that if you change from regular oil to synthetic all of the sudden at say... like 90k it will eat your seals and screw your motor??? i heard that and i want to run mobil 1 synthetic but i dont want to have to rebuild it...
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i have around 70k+ on my b16 i just switched to fully synthetic... runs great... not burning any oil, hope there arent long term effects tho now that u bring that up...
reviving this thread....
are synthetics a recommended upgrade for engines with 175k miles on them?
and is it true that once you go synthetic, you cant go back to regular?
are synthetics a recommended upgrade for engines with 175k miles on them?
and is it true that once you go synthetic, you cant go back to regular?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by z168 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">reviving this thread....
are synthetics a recommended upgrade for engines with 175k miles on them?
and is it true that once you go synthetic, you cant go back to regular?</TD></TR></TABLE>
ive been told you shouldnt do this because the motor needs to be broken or graudally weened to the oil, also synthetic supposively burns easier that NON
are synthetics a recommended upgrade for engines with 175k miles on them?
and is it true that once you go synthetic, you cant go back to regular?</TD></TR></TABLE>
ive been told you shouldnt do this because the motor needs to be broken or graudally weened to the oil, also synthetic supposively burns easier that NON
Early versions of PAO-based synthetic (Amsoil & Mobil 1) tended to cause old seals to leak. They tended to leak the plasticizer out of them and this was most noticeable on older seals that were on the verge of leaking anyway.
However, both the oils and the seals are better these days.
And "synthetics" can be a lot of compounds. This is almost always simplified to the point where the word has no real meaning. NEO and Red Line Oil are mostly esters ... and these Group 5 synthetic compounds are highly-effective seal conditioners. In fact, many of the high-mileage oils contains 10-15% synthetic esters in the formula to help condition the seals
Break the engine in using ANY appropriate oil ... just change it and the filter frequently to drain away break-in residue.
There is no problem mixing the two oils or switching back and forth between the "types."
However, both the oils and the seals are better these days.
And "synthetics" can be a lot of compounds. This is almost always simplified to the point where the word has no real meaning. NEO and Red Line Oil are mostly esters ... and these Group 5 synthetic compounds are highly-effective seal conditioners. In fact, many of the high-mileage oils contains 10-15% synthetic esters in the formula to help condition the seals
Break the engine in using ANY appropriate oil ... just change it and the filter frequently to drain away break-in residue.
There is no problem mixing the two oils or switching back and forth between the "types."
Definately use non synthetic for your break in as suggested previously, but after break in use full synthetic. I use Redline and it has been great. Never smokes and you extend the oil change interval when you use synthetic as it doesn't break down as easily. As far as cost is concerned, remember, oil is the life blood of your engine. Don't cheap out. Internal engine parts can be quite expensive as we all know so treat your engine to good synthetic oil.
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virgstyle
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Aug 22, 2006 01:26 PM





