I am about to install this manifold on a b16a2 and need to know what I should do about the Intake temp senor that is supposed to go on the manifold. The Si does not have this sensor on the manifold but in the intake tube itself. What should I do? Another question is I noticed that I have to remove the studs for the TB and the fuel rail from the old manifold to the AEBS....is this accurate and is it hard to do?

TIA

 

I never knew that about the Si IAT sensor. But i'm sure you need to relocate it to the intake runner. The studs you do need to transfer all of them to the AEBS. Also sometimes the flange on the manifold hits parts on the block and needs to be filed down a tad.
Transferring the studs is easy. Thread 2 nuts onto the stud and tighten the to each other, then they will be tight onto the stuf itself. You can then use a wrench on one of the nut and it will turn the whole stud so you can remove it.

 

Just use an Integra IAT and rewire your harness to plug into it; I believe that the plugs are different.

 

in my 92 gsr the fpr is hitting the air intake temp sensor too. how do i resolve this prob.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by icemangsr2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">in my 92 gsr the fpr is hitting the air intake temp sensor too. how do i resolve this prob. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Easy fix, you need a 95+ fuel rail, thich moves the fpr to the end. I use a 95 GSR rail on mine.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rjay8604 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. Also sometimes the flange on the manifold hits parts on the block and needs to be filed down a tad.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

It actually hits the top of the alternator bracket on 1st gens, never seen the problem on B16A2. It is very easy to shave down if it does occur

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ultimatehonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I noticed that I have to remove the studs for the TB and the fuel rail from the old manifold to the AEBS....is this accurate and is it hard to do?

TIA</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats true, some say its easy, but most of mine were a bitch to get out. I ended up using locking vice grips

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Thats true, some say its easy, but most of mine were a bitch to get out. I ended up using locking vice grips</TD></TR></TABLE>
Use the two nuts method, won't ruin the threads and you can get the best torque applied to remove them.

 

i have the aebs manifold on my si.
at first i left the sensor in the intake, and just put an original plug on the runner ( my friend happened to have one).
but now the sensor is in the runner bc i changed intakes.

either way is fine, but if u leave it in the intake just make sure you plug off that hole in the runner with the sensor clip

 

Yeah I took care of it....I cut out a peice of sheet metal and made it the same shape of the oval, and bought some screws that would fit into the threadings. I then hondabond and sealed it up....it seems to work fine.

 

Good idea man, you didn't have any problems with it hitting the block casting or anything did you?

 

Nope, everything bolted up fine. The only thing I was concerned about was the way the injectors sat in the manifold. It seems that the injectors sit lower in the manifold calling to remove the fuel rail spacers and replace them on top of the fuel rail. After I installed the manifold I allowed the car to reach operating temp and found a slight fuel leak out of injector number 4. I cleaned up the fuel and it hasnt leaked anymore. I think it was just a matter of letting the injectors seat themselves. Other then that it was a good install....I have felt a noticible increase in power through out the power band. I will really never know how much because I am waiting to install my buddy club cams and omni power valve train to fully tune the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ultimatehonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> It seems that the injectors sit lower in the manifold calling to remove the fuel rail spacers and replace them on top of the fuel rail. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I forgot to mention that

 

good

So its almost definate that the clearance prob is on the 12t gens, not the latter.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rjay8604 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Use the two nuts method, won't ruin the threads and you can get the best torque applied to remove them. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I tried that first, wasn't working to well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I tried that first, wasn't working to well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Really? What was it doing? IMO that is the most effective way , how did it not work?