I have done a search but nothing came up.

Does anyone have the Aem tru-pulleys and the unorthodox crank pulley on there ride????

I was just wondering becuase I was thinking about getting the unorthodox crank pulley But I was told by a vendor who sold both that it would mess up the harmonic balance of your motor. I had to get one or the other.

Is this true??????


Thanks Ahead of time!!!!

 

Anyone??????I don't want to install the wrong thing!!!


Help just need advice..

Could not find anything in the search area talking about this..

 

I have heard people talk about this before. Apprently the pulley isnt balanced and can mess up your crank shaft or something. But i have also heard stories of ppl using them with no problems. If im not wrong i think the CTR pulley is the one most ppl go with.

 

I never used the Unorthodox pullies, but I used the CTR N1 crank pully on my old B18B and it didn't have any negative effects on it.

I can't speak for the U.O. though..

 

well iv read that the CTR pully is so light that is has no harmonic balancing properties and it srips the oil pump gear. There have been a few threads on this and a guy on here had 2 motors with the CTR pully on them and both had stripped oil gears

 

waste of money. you dont really get much out of it if you actually gain something.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIK IN DA HED &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">waste of money. you dont really get much out of it if you actually gain something.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree, i wouldnt spend money on one.

 

I have the AEM pulleys on my 95 GSR. After installing the pulleys I started to have battery problems so I re-installed the stock alternator pulley and that seemed to cure it. I was about to buy the Unorthodox crank pulley but was told it messes up the balance of your bottom end and could eventually cause bearing wear.

 

my buddy has the Unorthodox crank pulley on his gsr and has been running it for a few years with no problems

 

I had similar concerns, and was addressing it with another HT member (743power), and here's how it went:

good article, never knew the role torsional vibrations play on the crankshaft beyond noise, and that it could lead to torsional breaks.
but honda motors don't have internal dampening, correct?

great piece with a good explanation (I've never read on motors, but I'm looking forward to doing more)
saw the graph, and dampening definitely makes a difference, but in reading the article, I also saw where the need to keep resonance to a minimum can also be achieved by preventing the engine from "being run at major critical speed", thereby making a dampener or lack thereof less of an issues.
On a honda B series vtec motor that major critical speed would be in the 9,000 rpm range, would it not?
so as long as I adhere to the stock rpm range, not going above 8,000 rpm, then dampening should not be an issue, if I'm understanding it correctly so far.
(with v6 motors it's a whole different story)

again, I believe this one is referring to the yamaha built celica gt-s motor that's power range is over 7600 rpm and on the first couple years of the model was meant to run to 9k rpm and slightly over........but then I think toyota even lowered the rev limiter restricting the motor from that high rpm range.
but this is all traching me a lot, so please correct me if I'm misunderstanding this.

again a great article...I think I love this stuff..haha.....
now when it refers to the E36, is that not a 6 cyl enigine, if I have my bimmers right, isn't the E30, the last bimmer made with performance 4cyl engine.
so being that the E36 had a performance v6 running well into the 7800 rpm range (major critical speed for a 6 cyl is reached at 5000 rpm) then the dampening and beefy steel construction is a 100 percent must.
I agree witht he characteristics of steels being much better than aluminum when it comes to dampening vibration and resisting fatigue (I know that from my mountain bikes )
but again when it comes to honda vtec b series operating well below 9000 rpm, is it as crucial. I wasn't convinced that it is, nevertheless it's better to err on the side of caution, and if a person is planning on going NA and making power above 8000 rpm, then they should not do it.

nah, no coincidence I'm sure
I'm assuming you were quickly approaching the 9000 rpm major critical speed with your NA buildups, so you would be accurate in your advice from what I've read in 743power's articles above.

all that said....if I had my way, I'd prefer to go without the pulley set, but it's already on there, and I don't know if I want to go back to stock.......let's see how it goes.........guess my setup will be a guinea pig.......but if I go NA buildup in the future, they are coming out........if I go turbo, they are staying in

then he replied:
(I didn't directly link the thread cause it was on another site called http://www.northest-hondas.com)

anyway, 743power's points were good ones, and ultimately they're are some negative side effects of running these...but then again there are negative side effects to racing your teg as well...like reduced engine life.

Read all the info provided, and make an informed decision. GL

btw, I've had this setup on my motor, between I and the previous owner for well over a year, and so far it hasn't ruined anything, but that's not to say it won't in the furture:

 

Thanks guys I'm going to keep the stock crank pulley and just put the new timing belt and Skunk2 adjustable cam pulleys on.