hi H-T er's...well after going through some depression and then some debating and hard decisions i've decided to turn the car into a drag car (94 or 95 civic cx Hatcback forgot what year it was)...some of you may know that the car was stolen and stripped...if you didnt know here is the link https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1050456...

I started to strip the whole car naked. All wires and straps have been removed maybe a few more to get. The front of the car still needs some work though. The winshield has been removed as it was already cracked and the rear side windows will also be removed and are forsale! the subframe will be pulled as well as the suspension parts. i know the car is dirty and it will be cleaned as well as sanded down and the rusty rear quater panel will also be treated. That heavy matt sticking to the firewall was completely torn out as well as everything that sticks to it. The gass tank will be dropped and gass lines removed. I am going to cut the front end off due to some accidents. All in all it will basically be a stripped naked lady, know what i mean?

i have some pictures and hopefully they are of decent size so you can see/visualize what what i am doing. ALso take note it is hella dirty and needs to be cleaned. I will let everyone here know that This is a Drag car on a budget. I do not know what class i want to participate in as of yet but i am preping it for a 9-8 sub sec car. Since i'm on a budget there will be no roll cage. However i will be purchasing the MB one peice front end, doors and rear hatch. ANd i will be using a pexi glass winshield and side windows. Remember this is a budget drag car so it will only see the track once in a long time untill i have enough money to really get started.

I'd like to get everyone's opinion and please no sarcasm. Oh and i have a few questions. If i get the car painted and the windows put in as well as the MB parts put on with out a roll cage will the drag strip allow me to run with a completely stock motor and maybe a turbo on later so i can work on my R/t and getting the car piloted down the 1320???all i want to do is take it there and run the car so i can get a "feel" of how the car wants to run and react down the strip. will they let me do this?

here are the pics...they are just pics of the car somewhat stripped...

full view of inside


more inside shots
















Now here is the rust part i was telling you guys all about...its just a lil bit thats all



this is the inside shot of that rust. Do you see how it spreaded.


and this is what happened when my bro fell off the side of the interstate...its not that bad...



your comments/suggestion will be greatly appreciated...dont expect this drag car to be finished anytime soon...COLLEGE students are broke...

thank you for looking

 

Well beauty is in the eye of the beholder. So if this is what you want to do then do it. As far as getting it track ready, just don't try and cut corners. Be prepared that it does not take over night, it will be a while. The front end and windows replaced with a stock motor should not be a problem. As long as you do not go faster than 11.49 you do not need a roll cage. But other safety things are if you out a fuel cell it has to be out of the drivers compartment (fire blocked). So you can not just bolt it in the tire sump in the back and get away with it. You will probably do what most have done and get a small 1 or 2 gallon and install it in the engine bay.

Besides that have fun with it.

Jason

 

hi, thanks for letting me know about the fuel tank...i was planning to get a 2 gal tank and putting it in the engine compartment. Also i hate to cut corners and i've learned to always keep my mind open so that i can expand on what i have already. thanks for the info...anything else you would like to add...

 

If you have a TAP Plastics around you anywhere, you can save some money and take your stock glass in and have them use it as a template to cut some lexan for you. Otherwise you have to pay a pretty hefty tag to FAL for their kit. Which still requires some trimming to fit. If you cut any of the metal out of the back (rear of the front seats) it has to be sealed off from the outside. Pretty much no holes or anything like that. So if you do any tin work or anything like that.

Jason

 

so pexiglass is off my list and lexan is on my list...from TAP plastics...and no i havent cut any metal off anything as of yet...if i do cut metal it will only be the front end...

 

keep the stock frontend on it until you have money.
The stock frontend parts are not that heavy

 

i'll have money to fund the one piece front end, doors, and rear hatch...its just the glass that i'm worried about...

SFWD 1934: i just looked and no Tap Plastics near or around me...all located in CA...Do you think that any plastic shop would carry lexan...i'm willing to cut it out myself if they dont do it...

 

WOW no TAP Plastics. That sucks. There is a good possibility that any plastic shop would have it. Can't hurt to try right. Minimum 1/8" thickness.

Jason

 

thanks a whole bunch...i'll keep looking...

 

I would invest in a cage before I did anything else to that car...it protects the most important thing in the racecar

 

yes i know...but i'm not going that fast...remember i'm only putting in a stock ls motor and turbo to get used to the track and conditions as well as practice. I will however get one later down the road...my plans were to get the cage and then paint it but being a college student i'm low on cash...thanks for watching my back...

 

stock ls with turbo can be pretty quick

i can't see any of the pictures

 

yes, ls/turbo is also fast. saftey is "key" to me all the time...but since i own one already it doesnt really bother me...and as for pics, i suck at hosting them so my sister did them for me...i dont see how you can see them but i can...does anybody else not see them???

 

As far as your windows goes you can also find a shop that sells polycarbonate and just pick up the sheets (I believe it comes in 4x8 or 4x6) and just cut them yourself using your stock glass as your template. It's alot cheaper then having someone do the work for you and you'll probably still have to do a little trimming.

 

i d def put a cage in it. if your gonna put fiberglass doors in theres nothing to protect you from a side impact.

know what your getting yourself into. there are expected expenses then double that budget for mishaps... don't choose one thing over another to save a few bucks. buy quality parts first then you don't have to buy again. look at your total picture and goals.

don't be like me. i got a 25k race car that sits in the garage that i can't sell for half the money i spent.

 

You should really start with a cage. Its the perfect time to put one in because the interior is stripped. If you are going to build a drag car, you need to do it right the first time (unless you have tons of expendable monies). Let me explain; these days, goind 11.50 or faster is pretty easy with light cars and decent turbo set-ups...why limit yourself right off the bat by not being legal as your times drop!?

Also, it would be smart to pick a class that you would like to race in, download the rulebook, and build the car from there. For Example; if I moved moved my fuel cell to the engine bay, I would have to run ProStock instead of Comp.4...

I know this was said before but I'll say it again...get ready for a long journey. Building a drag car does not come cheap or easy. It took me 15 months of work to get my Comp.4 car finished (including engine and back-up engine). Even if you have the money and resources to build a car, you still end-up waiting on other people. In my case, I tried to have someone on the west coast build my engine, they had all the pieces they needed to build it but instead sat on the engine a few months, then told me they didn't have time to build it anymore.

Overall, it was a rewarding experience. I started the car for the first time this weekend and actually had a tear in my eye listening to it. See you all at the the next Nopi event!

Good luck!

 

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If you can afford a one piece front end, you can deffinetly afford a cage. I spent $750 on a 6 point chromoly installed. Come on bro, do it right and get a cage. I know your used to the power, but you never know what could happen in a 1/4 mile.

 

hey thanks...while searching the net i found out that you can just by the sheet and cut it out yourself..thanks for the heads up...

 

wow...relocating the fuell cell puts you into a different class...i'll definitely DL the rule book to find out what class i want to join in...btw your right about putting in the cage first and work from there on but let me check on my budget...i was thinking over night while i was sleeping if i should save up and by the cage and the front end together...Does it matter what style cage i use...i mean they offer 6 pnt, 8p pnt, and even 10 pnt cages...and i know that they have to be nhra or whatever legal but which one will be worth my budget...remember if you went to college you know how college students are broke...thanks for the input

 

I think 6 point is good for 11.50 and under and a 10 point is required for anything under 10 seconds. Forget the one piece front end for now, spend the money on the cage. I don't think you can run SFWD or T4 (which is most likely where you'd eventually end up racing) with a one piece front end.

 

can anybody verify this...sorry i havent downloaded the rule book yet...i'm going to get the one piece so what classes am i open too...

 

With a one piece front end, you will not be able to run any street classes.

 

thank you for your input..let me keep working on it and cleaning it up more...i will post pictures of it when its more cleaned up...

 

keep the stock front buy a cage and go from there. unless your building a hotrod car which i don tink you are

 

thanks for all your comments guys...i'm going to work on the car more...ofcourse i'll come and check to see if you guys replied but i'll be working on the car more than here on HT...