Will the 17" CTR wheels clear the ITR Brembos? Offset +60mm or not?
Anyone know the CTR wheel offset? i.e. whether it will clear the ITR brembos?
I know the ITR wheels are +60mm offset, but not sure if the CTRs are like +48mm or so since they don't have the brembo option... do they?
I know the ITR wheels are +60mm offset, but not sure if the CTRs are like +48mm or so since they don't have the brembo option... do they?
Thank you 
So I would not be able to use the +45mm CTR wheels on the ITR hub with Brembos unless i used a spacer to get to the +60mm required to clear the Brembos...
is that correct? dang. I like the CTRs much better.

So I would not be able to use the +45mm CTR wheels on the ITR hub with Brembos unless i used a spacer to get to the +60mm required to clear the Brembos...
is that correct? dang. I like the CTRs much better.
Not sure about the clearance for the Brembos but if you use a 15mm spacer on a wheel with +45mm offset the result would be offset +30mm, not +60mm.
http://aj-racing.com/pages.php..._ajr5
they're running the itr brakes with spoon calipers with the ep3r wheels dunno if this will help or not
they're running the itr brakes with spoon calipers with the ep3r wheels dunno if this will help or not
Thanks, it looks like they say they're running the ITR calipers? not too familiar with the Spoon calipers if they are as large as the ITR brembos...
It looks like they're running at 18x7.5, which is .5" wider than the ITRs which are 17x7".
The ITRs are +60mm offset and the Work Emotion CR Kai are +42mm offset...
I have heard you can get by with a 55mm offset with the brembos. So it is possible with their 7.5" wide wheels they are getting another 12mm, but not sure... they could be using spacers and not saying so, I certainly wouldn't say it if I was running a car like that...
I will check out the spoon caliper sizes, thanks
It looks like they're running at 18x7.5, which is .5" wider than the ITRs which are 17x7".
The ITRs are +60mm offset and the Work Emotion CR Kai are +42mm offset...
I have heard you can get by with a 55mm offset with the brembos. So it is possible with their 7.5" wide wheels they are getting another 12mm, but not sure... they could be using spacers and not saying so, I certainly wouldn't say it if I was running a car like that...
I will check out the spoon caliper sizes, thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ocelaris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have heard you can get by with a 55mm offset with the brembos. So it is possible with their 7.5" wide wheels they are getting another 12mm, but not sure... they could be using spacers and not saying so, I certainly wouldn't say it if I was running a car like that...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm running MF10's at +55, with 8 inches wide, without any problems using the DC5-R setup. This is on a 2001 EM2 as well.
I have heard you can get by with a 55mm offset with the brembos. So it is possible with their 7.5" wide wheels they are getting another 12mm, but not sure... they could be using spacers and not saying so, I certainly wouldn't say it if I was running a car like that...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm running MF10's at +55, with 8 inches wide, without any problems using the DC5-R setup. This is on a 2001 EM2 as well.
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I don't see any MF10s at +55 offset that are 8 inches wide except
MF10 Bronze NSX 16x8, +42, 5x114.3 Bronze Front
are you running 16s?
For every inch wider you have a tire, how much can you take off, of the offset?
Like the ITR wheels are 17x7 and +60mm offset, if you get 8" wide can you do +50mm offset? like is there a standard plus width, minus offset ratio?
They also have some:
MF10 Bronze NSX 17x9, +42, 5x114.3 Bronze Rear
That seems very wide, do you have any problems tracking at all with such a wide tire? what size tire do you run, 215, 225, 205?
MF10 Bronze NSX 16x8, +42, 5x114.3 Bronze Front
are you running 16s?
For every inch wider you have a tire, how much can you take off, of the offset?
Like the ITR wheels are 17x7 and +60mm offset, if you get 8" wide can you do +50mm offset? like is there a standard plus width, minus offset ratio?
They also have some:
MF10 Bronze NSX 17x9, +42, 5x114.3 Bronze Rear
That seems very wide, do you have any problems tracking at all with such a wide tire? what size tire do you run, 215, 225, 205?
I found out a good calculator...
http://1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp
If you are adding width of a wheel, you can get roughly 6mm more clearance, i.e.
17x7 with 60mm offset has the same internal clearance as
17x7.5 with 54mm offset and it extends 12mm further out
17x8 with 47mm offset and it extends out 26mm further
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Offset
The offset of a wheel is the distance from the mounting surface of the wheel to the true centerline of the rim. A positive offset means the mounting surface of the wheel is positioned in front of the true centerline of the rim / tire assembly. This in effect brings the tire in to the fender well more. Conversely, a negative offset means the mounting surface of the wheel is behind the true centerline of the rim / tire assembly. This will cause the tire to stick out away from the vehicle.</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp
If you are adding width of a wheel, you can get roughly 6mm more clearance, i.e.
17x7 with 60mm offset has the same internal clearance as
17x7.5 with 54mm offset and it extends 12mm further out
17x8 with 47mm offset and it extends out 26mm further
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Offset
The offset of a wheel is the distance from the mounting surface of the wheel to the true centerline of the rim. A positive offset means the mounting surface of the wheel is positioned in front of the true centerline of the rim / tire assembly. This in effect brings the tire in to the fender well more. Conversely, a negative offset means the mounting surface of the wheel is behind the true centerline of the rim / tire assembly. This will cause the tire to stick out away from the vehicle.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is a good calculator.
The Mugen MF10's have since been discontinued, but were made in a 17x8, +55 option made specifically for the DC5-R.
http://www.jhpusa.com/catalog/...91652
There is a set of them.
The Mugen MF10's have since been discontinued, but were made in a 17x8, +55 option made specifically for the DC5-R.
http://www.jhpusa.com/catalog/...91652
There is a set of them.
Ouch that is expensive! Makes me wish I bought back a set of 17x8 MF10's I sold to a customer with a RSX he later sold!
-Victor (who is installing DC5R Brembos this week)
-Victor (who is installing DC5R Brembos this week)
Just to let you know my 16" JDM ITR wheels ( +50 ) fit over the DC5R Brembos but touch the spokes and snag the wheel weights. Also a +50 offset still isn't good for the EP with this swap.
-Victor
-Victor
Did you install the DC5R brembos? Are you referring to the ITR DC2 wheels?
The 17" DC5R wheels are +60mm offset at 7" wide... here are the clearances that I calculated... I have heard you can get away with ~4mm less offset, but barely...
17x7 @ 60
17x7.5 @ 54
17x8 @ 47
17x8.5 @ 41
17x9.5 @ 35
Right now the 3 sets of wheels competing to me are:
Stock ITRs 17x7 @ 60mm offset, and 19 lbs a piece
05 STI wheels 17x8 @ 48mm offset and 16 pounds a piece, forged
Assorted rotas, torque, boost, or Slipstream... all ~19 or 20 lbs like the ITRs, but in an 8" wide...
I have heard other places that 16" will not work, some ClubRSX threads...
Here are some other wheels that some "race setups" are using that are compatible:
Here is a list of some tuner cars and what they are running...
CWest Advan RG 17x8.5 +50 235/45-17
J's Racing SSR Type C 17x8.5 +40 245/40-17 front 17x7.5 +48 225/45-17 rear
K-One Advan RG 17x8.5 +37 245/40-17 front 17x.5 +45 215/45-17 rear
RG-O SSR Type C 17x8 +40 225/45-17 front 17x7.5 +48 215/45-17 rear
M&M Honda Weds TC005 17x9 +42 245/40-17 front 17x7 +48 235/40-17 rear
Top Fuel Advan TC II 17x8.5 +37 245/40-17 front 215/45-17 rear
Techno Pro Spirit Volk CE28N 17x8.5 +47 235/40-17 front 17x7.5 +43 215/45-17 rear
BYS Prodrive GC-05A 17x8 +42 245/45-17 front 17x7 +45 225/45-17 rear
Above are all pretty $$$$ so probably out of reach.
Would you say 8" is about as wide as you would want to go on a streetable car? Is the ITR wheel forged? at 19 lbs it's not the lightest out there if it is... looks good, but there are cheaper options if it's cast... I think Enkei makes it.
So you got your DC5R swap done Victor? Wish I could've seen/helped/bought you beer to watch and learn? I would like to learn, so I think I am going to try and tackle it myself whenever I get the $ to buy the wheels/tires. Should have the suspension this weekend though.
You still have that Red carpet? interested in letting that go? :-P talked to Pete yesterday! I still have some lights if you've gotten over your buble-lens phobia
The 17" DC5R wheels are +60mm offset at 7" wide... here are the clearances that I calculated... I have heard you can get away with ~4mm less offset, but barely...
17x7 @ 60
17x7.5 @ 54
17x8 @ 47
17x8.5 @ 41
17x9.5 @ 35
Right now the 3 sets of wheels competing to me are:
Stock ITRs 17x7 @ 60mm offset, and 19 lbs a piece
05 STI wheels 17x8 @ 48mm offset and 16 pounds a piece, forged
Assorted rotas, torque, boost, or Slipstream... all ~19 or 20 lbs like the ITRs, but in an 8" wide...
I have heard other places that 16" will not work, some ClubRSX threads...
Here are some other wheels that some "race setups" are using that are compatible:
Here is a list of some tuner cars and what they are running...
CWest Advan RG 17x8.5 +50 235/45-17
J's Racing SSR Type C 17x8.5 +40 245/40-17 front 17x7.5 +48 225/45-17 rear
K-One Advan RG 17x8.5 +37 245/40-17 front 17x.5 +45 215/45-17 rear
RG-O SSR Type C 17x8 +40 225/45-17 front 17x7.5 +48 215/45-17 rear
M&M Honda Weds TC005 17x9 +42 245/40-17 front 17x7 +48 235/40-17 rear
Top Fuel Advan TC II 17x8.5 +37 245/40-17 front 215/45-17 rear
Techno Pro Spirit Volk CE28N 17x8.5 +47 235/40-17 front 17x7.5 +43 215/45-17 rear
BYS Prodrive GC-05A 17x8 +42 245/45-17 front 17x7 +45 225/45-17 rear
Above are all pretty $$$$ so probably out of reach.
Would you say 8" is about as wide as you would want to go on a streetable car? Is the ITR wheel forged? at 19 lbs it's not the lightest out there if it is... looks good, but there are cheaper options if it's cast... I think Enkei makes it.
So you got your DC5R swap done Victor? Wish I could've seen/helped/bought you beer to watch and learn? I would like to learn, so I think I am going to try and tackle it myself whenever I get the $ to buy the wheels/tires. Should have the suspension this weekend though.
You still have that Red carpet? interested in letting that go? :-P talked to Pete yesterday! I still have some lights if you've gotten over your buble-lens phobia
I have done the DC5 R setup on my car if you have any questions let me know. as for wheels I have one of the last sets of MF10s and running a 8 inch wide rims is fine on the streets. but if you have a ep with certain rims you need a higher offset because it will rub the fender. I've seen a guy with a ep3 and brembos running on works. he had a 42 offset and it was rubbing the fender. he needed a 47 offset.
Look what I found. I was thinking of getting the EP3 rims a while back and running it on my DC5 because I liked these rims better.
Ya, I finished the install and the TYPE-S on another EP. The front is going to be up for a bit until I get wheels. Oh, the DC5R wheels are cast, not forged. As for wheels, my 16x7 JDM wheels will not fit with the +50. It's tight though.
Yes, I still have the carpet, going to install it this summer or so. As for the lights, ya, I'm still not diggin them.
-Victor
Yes, I still have the carpet, going to install it this summer or so. As for the lights, ya, I'm still not diggin them.
-Victor
Thanks Aznbo1 and Victor, I appreciate the help, I just picked up the suspension/subframe, LCAs, brembos, rotors etc... Some questions before I get started...
1) Did you have any clearance issues with the JDM ITR sway with header?
2) Did you reuse your stock speed sensors? I heard the EP3 ones were not compatible, but the RSX-S ones were... (cut wires, need to replace anyways)
3) Did you have to change your brake lines? (pretty sure not)
4) Where do you get rotors/pads? I know pads are the same as the TL Brembos or 350 etc... but my rotors are corroded, I can get them turned, but eventually, replacements should be acquired... I may take rotor measurements and go to the brembo website for blanks...
5) Are you worried about hard to replace part like the lower ball joint or other parts specific to the ITR that aren't replaceable with USDM parts?
I know that's alot! but trying to get prepared for the inevitable :-) Thanks, Bill
1) Did you have any clearance issues with the JDM ITR sway with header?
2) Did you reuse your stock speed sensors? I heard the EP3 ones were not compatible, but the RSX-S ones were... (cut wires, need to replace anyways)
3) Did you have to change your brake lines? (pretty sure not)
4) Where do you get rotors/pads? I know pads are the same as the TL Brembos or 350 etc... but my rotors are corroded, I can get them turned, but eventually, replacements should be acquired... I may take rotor measurements and go to the brembo website for blanks...
5) Are you worried about hard to replace part like the lower ball joint or other parts specific to the ITR that aren't replaceable with USDM parts?
I know that's alot! but trying to get prepared for the inevitable :-) Thanks, Bill
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aznbo1626 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Look what I found. I was thinking of getting the EP3 rims a while back and running it on my DC5 because I liked these rims better.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i want those so bad
</TD></TR></TABLE>i want those so bad
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97 TYPE-R 312 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> As for the lights, ya, I'm still not diggin them.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You should drive w/mine sometime. I think you'd be convinced.
</TD></TR></TABLE>You should drive w/mine sometime. I think you'd be convinced.
The CTRs are really hot, but they're only 17x7 @ +45mm offset, so you would have issues fitting them under the brembos... don't know if you could use spacers, but I think spacers would make it go the wrongway giving you even less clearance. without some sort of modification, the Brembos would not work under those CTR wheels...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ocelaris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks Aznbo1 and Victor, I appreciate the help, I just picked up the suspension/subframe, LCAs, brembos, rotors etc... Some questions before I get started...
1) Did you have any clearance issues with the JDM ITR sway with header?
2) Did you reuse your stock speed sensors? I heard the EP3 ones were not compatible, but the RSX-S ones were... (cut wires, need to replace anyways)
3) Did you have to change your brake lines? (pretty sure not)
4) Where do you get rotors/pads? I know pads are the same as the TL Brembos or 350 etc... but my rotors are corroded, I can get them turned, but eventually, replacements should be acquired... I may take rotor measurements and go to the brembo website for blanks...
5) Are you worried about hard to replace part like the lower ball joint or other parts specific to the ITR that aren't replaceable with USDM parts?
I know that's alot! but trying to get prepared for the inevitable :-) Thanks, Bill</TD></TR></TABLE>
1. I have a ITR header so I didn’t have any issues. Even if you are using the US headers you shouldn’t because it has a lot of cleareance.
2. I didn’t alter my speed sensor.
3. I had JDM ITR brake lines which I used, but I have Mugen SS lines my room.
4. Pads for the rears are the same as Type S rear and the fronts are the same as TL brembos like you said. With the rotors I’m still looking for them in the US. But rotors will always have rust on them when they are damp. When you drive on them they will look new again. Best bet is to machine them.
5. I’m actually pretty sure the ball joints are the same but I can find out about that. There are parts that are not replaceable though.
Next time just put it all together so i can right in a paragraph.
Modified by aznbo1626 at 8:58 AM 5/23/2005
1) Did you have any clearance issues with the JDM ITR sway with header?
2) Did you reuse your stock speed sensors? I heard the EP3 ones were not compatible, but the RSX-S ones were... (cut wires, need to replace anyways)
3) Did you have to change your brake lines? (pretty sure not)
4) Where do you get rotors/pads? I know pads are the same as the TL Brembos or 350 etc... but my rotors are corroded, I can get them turned, but eventually, replacements should be acquired... I may take rotor measurements and go to the brembo website for blanks...
5) Are you worried about hard to replace part like the lower ball joint or other parts specific to the ITR that aren't replaceable with USDM parts?
I know that's alot! but trying to get prepared for the inevitable :-) Thanks, Bill</TD></TR></TABLE>
1. I have a ITR header so I didn’t have any issues. Even if you are using the US headers you shouldn’t because it has a lot of cleareance.
2. I didn’t alter my speed sensor.
3. I had JDM ITR brake lines which I used, but I have Mugen SS lines my room.
4. Pads for the rears are the same as Type S rear and the fronts are the same as TL brembos like you said. With the rotors I’m still looking for them in the US. But rotors will always have rust on them when they are damp. When you drive on them they will look new again. Best bet is to machine them.
5. I’m actually pretty sure the ball joints are the same but I can find out about that. There are parts that are not replaceable though.
Next time just put it all together so i can right in a paragraph.
Modified by aznbo1626 at 8:58 AM 5/23/2005
bringing this back for some added info.
I just put on a set of (same ones Halo has) Enkei 17x7.5 +48 on my EP with DC5R Brembos. They stuck out farther than my JDM 16"x7 +50's. Back to looking for more wheels.
-Victor
I just put on a set of (same ones Halo has) Enkei 17x7.5 +48 on my EP with DC5R Brembos. They stuck out farther than my JDM 16"x7 +50's. Back to looking for more wheels.
-Victor
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97 TYPE-R 312 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bringing this back for some added info.
I just put on a set of (same ones Halo has) Enkei 17x7.5 +48 on my EP with DC5R Brembos. They stuck out farther than my JDM 16"x7 +50's. Back to looking for more wheels.
-Victor</TD></TR></TABLE>
do you have JDM 16 X 7s on your brembos? if so pics.
I just put on a set of (same ones Halo has) Enkei 17x7.5 +48 on my EP with DC5R Brembos. They stuck out farther than my JDM 16"x7 +50's. Back to looking for more wheels.
-Victor</TD></TR></TABLE>
do you have JDM 16 X 7s on your brembos? if so pics.
I can put the wheel on the lugs, but i won't be able to tigthen it all the way w/o a spacer. It will clear w/o wheel weights on the inner inside wheel well, but won't clear the face of the Brembo. I have them on the back now and seeing it just a tad outside the lip.
I'm looking for DC5R wheels now, which I wanted from the start.
-Victor
I'm looking for DC5R wheels now, which I wanted from the start.
-Victor


