jdm itr w/ ctr piston
I would think it comes down to what your goals are with the motor. If you're just wantin to putt around town and don't have the know-how on how to persoanlly install them then I would say no. If you can do the labor yourself and add several other factors to compliment that compression then yes, it will be worth it. A few questions I would ask you - 1.)What is your horsepower or 1/4 mile time goal? 2.) Where do you want your powerband to occur? 3.)How much $$ do you have to spend? 4.) Is this motor daily driven?
The most important...keep everything realistic. Don't post a dollar amount you have to spend to impress people on this board, set a budget that accomadates <U>you</U> and go from there.
The most important...keep everything realistic. Don't post a dollar amount you have to spend to impress people on this board, set a budget that accomadates <U>you</U> and go from there.
well tell you the truth, the cost is really nothing but the less i have to pay would be grear , my mechanic is my friend so he is hooking me up. he has worked on many hondas, he's done other work for me, and my friends, I trust him. but he is telling not to bother run it stock, but if i want to he'll do it. just want to know the characterics of the motor if i do , do it. and what i need for it to run rite, so i can run it by him
but the b18c5 is already getting tear down, i thought it would be a great time to do it since its all out. the only thing is everything esle would be stock. i will be upgrading the head later. but i have these piston laying around, they are standard size.
horsepower?, just trying to push the most out of it with oem honda parts at first. then i'll up the valves, springs, cams, etc. so i guess i am looking to get about 200-210 at the wheels. 1/4 mile i am looking to do flat 14 all day, but want to get into the 13's(anywhere is fine, of course low's will be great.)
its going into a DA integra.
powerband wise, i would like to get a nice pull at like 4500-5500 rpm all the way up to the 8's or 9's but thats about like all hondas with VTEC. it will depends on the cams i 'll be using too, rite?
yes the motor will be used daily for a short time tho, after that its going to be used for road racing i believe, if not just you plain ol' str**t Ra***g.
but the b18c5 is already getting tear down, i thought it would be a great time to do it since its all out. the only thing is everything esle would be stock. i will be upgrading the head later. but i have these piston laying around, they are standard size.
horsepower?, just trying to push the most out of it with oem honda parts at first. then i'll up the valves, springs, cams, etc. so i guess i am looking to get about 200-210 at the wheels. 1/4 mile i am looking to do flat 14 all day, but want to get into the 13's(anywhere is fine, of course low's will be great.)
its going into a DA integra.
powerband wise, i would like to get a nice pull at like 4500-5500 rpm all the way up to the 8's or 9's but thats about like all hondas with VTEC. it will depends on the cams i 'll be using too, rite?
yes the motor will be used daily for a short time tho, after that its going to be used for road racing i believe, if not just you plain ol' str**t Ra***g.
Hmmmm.....low 14's in a DA with a C5 is very very obtainable. 13's, mid 13's are very realistic also on slicks. Personally, I might opt to keep your pistons in there to be honest with you. I might upgrade the rod bolts to some ARP's, but other than that I would leave the block alone. You could put a thin headgasket in it, maybe throw some valves at the head and sit comfortably around 11.5 compression, which is enough to run many many different camshafts out there. Generally with a road race motor you would like a nice mid-range camshaft, if you were drag racing I would say opt for a more high revving - more "peaky" cam and launch high. I would do this if I were you....
RC 310's
RM M22x cams
RM gen 2 valvetrain
Supertech flat bottom valves
Mugen/Spoon headgasket
RMF/SMSP/Toda header
ARP rod bolts
H-data s-100
Excedy clutch and flywheel
..and a good flowing exhaust. That configuration will put you over 200 easily, and on slicks with a good driver dip low low 13's, maybe even 12's depending on elevation and your engine tuner. Good luck man
RC 310's
RM M22x cams
RM gen 2 valvetrain
Supertech flat bottom valves
Mugen/Spoon headgasket
RMF/SMSP/Toda header
ARP rod bolts
H-data s-100
Excedy clutch and flywheel
..and a good flowing exhaust. That configuration will put you over 200 easily, and on slicks with a good driver dip low low 13's, maybe even 12's depending on elevation and your engine tuner. Good luck man
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