Correct way to adjust ride height
I've been measuring between perches and matching that gap. I don't have access to work in a garage, and I'm sure the gas station doesn't want me adjusting my height on their property, so it's difficult for me to find a perfectly flat location to adjust my ride height.
How do you guys check ride height? Do you measure from the ground to the fender, or from the centercap to the fender? What is the correct way?
How do you guys check ride height? Do you measure from the ground to the fender, or from the centercap to the fender? What is the correct way?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shogun-dc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i count threads .... seems like the most logical way to do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I used a tape measure between perches to try and accomplish this same thing. I guess the only way to be sure is to count each thread... thanks for the input.
I used a tape measure between perches to try and accomplish this same thing. I guess the only way to be sure is to count each thread... thanks for the input.
If you wan't your car to look even, you just measure from your center caps up to the fender. This will make your car LOOK perfectly even. It's best to measure it with somebody your size in the front seat.
If you wan't your car to handle evenly, get it cornerweighted. It's best to have a professional do it while your sitting in your front seat.
You could count threads all day long, but the vehicles weight isn't distributed evenly, so it won't help too much. I counted threads, and my drivers side sits lower than the passengers side. If you don't have space to do it, just go to the highschool parking lot on the week end (unless your highschool is ghetto
)...
Once you decide on a permenent setting, make sure to zero out all your susension bushings (Unless you got poly bushings). This will keep your bushings from being twisted all the time, and wearing out early...
If you wan't your car to handle evenly, get it cornerweighted. It's best to have a professional do it while your sitting in your front seat.
You could count threads all day long, but the vehicles weight isn't distributed evenly, so it won't help too much. I counted threads, and my drivers side sits lower than the passengers side. If you don't have space to do it, just go to the highschool parking lot on the week end (unless your highschool is ghetto
)...Once you decide on a permenent setting, make sure to zero out all your susension bushings (Unless you got poly bushings). This will keep your bushings from being twisted all the time, and wearing out early...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you wan't your car to look even, you just measure from your center caps up to the fender. This will make your car LOOK perfectly even. It's best to measure it with somebody your size in the front seat.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Believe it or not but this is actually the way FIA homogulated cars measure their ride height. We're probably going to use that measurementment for our race spec sheets (is just for relative changes).
Believe it or not but this is actually the way FIA homogulated cars measure their ride height. We're probably going to use that measurementment for our race spec sheets (is just for relative changes).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rotten »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Believe it or not but this is actually the way FIA homogulated cars measure their ride height. We're probably going to use that measurementment for our race spec sheets (is just for relative changes).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah for the minimum corner, but what about your corner-weighting. For an ideal race car setup, all 4 corners may be slightly different due to your corner weight settings...
***edit: Sorry, I just saw your comment about "relative changes"
***
Modified by 94eg! at 1:46 PM 5/16/2005
Believe it or not but this is actually the way FIA homogulated cars measure their ride height. We're probably going to use that measurementment for our race spec sheets (is just for relative changes).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah for the minimum corner, but what about your corner-weighting. For an ideal race car setup, all 4 corners may be slightly different due to your corner weight settings...
***edit: Sorry, I just saw your comment about "relative changes"
***Modified by 94eg! at 1:46 PM 5/16/2005
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I'm glad I read this since I've had the same problem after letting someone adjust my height.
I knew to use level ground but used several different was of measure that were suggested to me.
I knew to use level ground but used several different was of measure that were suggested to me.
With the car on jackstands, you can just jack up underneath one of the LCAs until the car barley lifts off the nearest jackstand. Next you loosen every bolt at that corner (that goes through the center of a bushing), and then re-torque them. Set the chassis back down on the jackstand, and move to the next LCA. This can be done for every suspension bushing except the large trailing arm bushings, and the inside rear UCA bushings. Those ones would have to be pressed out & clocked the proper amount to get the same effect...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cpgfilth »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sooo you have to do this everytime you change height, change shock/springs, put car on jackstands?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah! This is the way your suspension is assembled from the factory. This is the way the manual says you are supposed to work on your suspension. The only difference is that the manual doesn't mention ride height changes. You should reset your bushings every time you alter ride height. If your just working on your suspension, you only need to do the ones youve loosened...
I'm thinking about getting some spherical bearings for the trailing arm bushings and inner rear UCA bushings. Then I don't ever have to worry about having to get those ones "clocked". I really like the "hard race" bearings, but they don't really sell them yet (WTF?)...
Yeah! This is the way your suspension is assembled from the factory. This is the way the manual says you are supposed to work on your suspension. The only difference is that the manual doesn't mention ride height changes. You should reset your bushings every time you alter ride height. If your just working on your suspension, you only need to do the ones youve loosened...
I'm thinking about getting some spherical bearings for the trailing arm bushings and inner rear UCA bushings. Then I don't ever have to worry about having to get those ones "clocked". I really like the "hard race" bearings, but they don't really sell them yet (WTF?)...
I've been measuring between perches and matching that gap. I don't have access to work in a garage, and I'm sure the gas station doesn't want me adjusting my height on their property, so it's difficult for me to find a perfectly flat location to adjust my ride height.
How do you guys check ride height? Do you measure from the ground to the fender, or from the centercap to the fender? What is the correct way?
How do you guys check ride height? Do you measure from the ground to the fender, or from the centercap to the fender? What is the correct way?
Hi All
Would checking the ride height from the jack plates be a more accurate way to check ride heights? If this would be the way to do it has anybody got these dimensions on a stock 1999 Integra Type R
Hope I asked this question in the correct place.
Regards John
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