DA knuckles provide +1 deg of camber correction? Any proof?
I have spare DA knuckles but I also have my newest sedan which needs ~1 degree of positive camber to get the camber where I want it.
I read somewhere that the DA knuckles give you ~1 degree of positive camber.
Can anyone verify this either with documented before/after alignment or from first hand experience?
If that's true, it will save me from having to get a camber kit.
TIA.
I read somewhere that the DA knuckles give you ~1 degree of positive camber.
Can anyone verify this either with documented before/after alignment or from first hand experience?
If that's true, it will save me from having to get a camber kit.
TIA.
I just put on DA knuckles and LCA's on my rex.......I used the upper arms but they were havin trouble clearing the inner fender so I switch back to the EF upper control arms......I am having trouble gettin my camber right and I am almost certain it is more negative than before.....you probably want a second opinion on that though but that is what I am guessing
i didnt know that the knuckes affected camber.
but i think ive read that the DA a arms reversed give you camber. the left on the right and right on the left.
some say the knuckles affect caster, while some say it only affects caster if you use the a arms.
do a search i think i myself may have started some threads regarding these issues.
i just went with adjustable upper c arms.
but i think ive read that the DA a arms reversed give you camber. the left on the right and right on the left.
some say the knuckles affect caster, while some say it only affects caster if you use the a arms.
do a search i think i myself may have started some threads regarding these issues.
i just went with adjustable upper c arms.
The knuckles reversed...what the hell are you talkin about? If you switched the knuckles to the opposite side the tie rod ends would have nothing to connect to.
Caster is the angle of the line which is passed through the turning axis of the knuckle...the upper and lower ball joint. Unless the upper ball joint is shifted sideways that is the only way a knuckle would change caster.
Go get some new information man.
Caster is the angle of the line which is passed through the turning axis of the knuckle...the upper and lower ball joint. Unless the upper ball joint is shifted sideways that is the only way a knuckle would change caster.
Go get some new information man.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The knuckles reversed...what the hell are you talkin about? If you switched the knuckles to the opposite side the tie rod ends would have nothing to connect to.
Caster is the angle of the line which is passed through the turning axis of the knuckle...the upper and lower ball joint. Unless the upper ball joint is shifted sideways that is the only way a knuckle would change caster.
Go get some new information man.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is false, DA knuckles will not give you any camber correction at all.
Caster is the angle of the line which is passed through the turning axis of the knuckle...the upper and lower ball joint. Unless the upper ball joint is shifted sideways that is the only way a knuckle would change caster.
Go get some new information man.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is false, DA knuckles will not give you any camber correction at all.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93formula »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i didnt know that the knuckes affected camber.
but i think ive read that the DA a arms reversed give you camber. the left on the right and right on the left.
some say the knuckles affect caster, while some say it only affects caster if you use the a arms.
do a search i think i myself may have started some threads regarding these issues.
i just went with adjustable upper c arms.</TD></TR></TABLE>
holy misinformation...
da knuckles are longer. camber will be affected, more positive. how much, i dont know. i went with ex knuckles cause i want more neg camber.
switching uca's r to l will add caster. doesn't work as well for ef's as for later chassis, as the geometry isn't so nice in other aspects. qualitative statements on this are based on others opinions, as after other people said it was pretty bed i never gave it a shot.
but i think ive read that the DA a arms reversed give you camber. the left on the right and right on the left.
some say the knuckles affect caster, while some say it only affects caster if you use the a arms.
do a search i think i myself may have started some threads regarding these issues.
i just went with adjustable upper c arms.</TD></TR></TABLE>
holy misinformation...
da knuckles are longer. camber will be affected, more positive. how much, i dont know. i went with ex knuckles cause i want more neg camber.
switching uca's r to l will add caster. doesn't work as well for ef's as for later chassis, as the geometry isn't so nice in other aspects. qualitative statements on this are based on others opinions, as after other people said it was pretty bed i never gave it a shot.
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFoneateSI »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why wouldnt anyone just spend the money for adjustable upper balljoints?</TD></TR></TABLE>
its not about a camber kit but about stoping power, well from my side.
its not about a camber kit but about stoping power, well from my side.
well my wifes 90 CRX is using 90 Integra brakes all the way around, and her car without correction is exactly 1degree negative camber on each side (front). I've had to install a camber kit to fix this problem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93formula »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i didnt know that the knuckes affected camber.
but i think ive read that the DA a arms reversed give you camber. the left on the right and right on the left.
some say the knuckles affect caster, while some say it only affects caster if you use the a arms.
do a search i think i myself may have started some threads regarding these issues.
i just went with adjustable upper c arms.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you are sorrowfully confusing camber with caster and completely misleading with very bad information.
but i think ive read that the DA a arms reversed give you camber. the left on the right and right on the left.
some say the knuckles affect caster, while some say it only affects caster if you use the a arms.
do a search i think i myself may have started some threads regarding these issues.
i just went with adjustable upper c arms.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you are sorrowfully confusing camber with caster and completely misleading with very bad information.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The knuckles reversed...what the hell are you talkin about? If you switched the knuckles to the opposite side the tie rod ends would have nothing to connect to.
Caster is the angle of the line which is passed through the turning axis of the knuckle...the upper and lower ball joint. Unless the upper ball joint is shifted sideways that is the only way a knuckle would change caster.
Go get some new information man.</TD></TR></TABLE>
open your eyes and read, i wrote a arms not knuckles reversed
Caster is the angle of the line which is passed through the turning axis of the knuckle...the upper and lower ball joint. Unless the upper ball joint is shifted sideways that is the only way a knuckle would change caster.
Go get some new information man.</TD></TR></TABLE>
open your eyes and read, i wrote a arms not knuckles reversed
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93formula »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
open your eyes and read, i wrote a arms not knuckles reversed
</TD></TR></TABLE>
well, for the record, switching the A arms changes caster, not camber. and is NOT recommended.
open your eyes and read, i wrote a arms not knuckles reversed
</TD></TR></TABLE>
well, for the record, switching the A arms changes caster, not camber. and is NOT recommended.
yeah, don't even use the teg "a" arms, just use yours.
its not a certain amount it changes the camber, it changes the curve, because the top of the knuckle extends farther up. this would be an issue if you're completely slammed, but from what i've seen, these work perfectly on cars lowered 1.5-2 inches.
too much more, the a arm might bottom out into the unibody, and too much less and your camber will be a little off.
its not a certain amount it changes the camber, it changes the curve, because the top of the knuckle extends farther up. this would be an issue if you're completely slammed, but from what i've seen, these work perfectly on cars lowered 1.5-2 inches.
too much more, the a arm might bottom out into the unibody, and too much less and your camber will be a little off.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93formula »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">open your eyes and read, i wrote a arms not knuckles reversed</TD></TR></TABLE>
For god's sake I apologize...I was just so taken back by your thread full of bad information it was overwhelming.
For god's sake I apologize...I was just so taken back by your thread full of bad information it was overwhelming.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFoneateSI »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why wouldnt anyone jsut spend the money for adjustable upper balljoints?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm trying to spend no money. I have DA knuckles now, and this would be going on an '89..which means I'd have to spend money on 90-91 control arms, plus the new balljoint if i went that route.
Or I could use adjustable upper control arms (which I already have), but they will hit the upper frame rail and I don't want to have to cut/notch anything.
I'm trying to spend no money. I have DA knuckles now, and this would be going on an '89..which means I'd have to spend money on 90-91 control arms, plus the new balljoint if i went that route.
Or I could use adjustable upper control arms (which I already have), but they will hit the upper frame rail and I don't want to have to cut/notch anything.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rsca_crx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
holy misinformation...
da knuckles are longer. camber will be affected, more positive. how much, i dont know. i went with ex knuckles cause i want more neg camber.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have da knuckles on my crx and I find this statement to be accurate. The da knuckles are taller and effect the geometry in a way that is noticeable to the driver. Steering inputs seem slightly exaggerated, i.e. quicker, and not in the "oh boy, my steering feels quicker!" but in that it feels a little touchy. Car tracks straight, just quick to come off center. Seems like a caster issue, but I'm no expert. My smaller diameter steering wheel probably contributes to this as well.
Car is on stock, 17 year old springs with a b20vtec swap sittin' on it and definitely no negative camber, in fact, the outer part of my tires are slightly more worn than the inner. The wheels look virtually straight up and down, the tire wear indicates otherwise. With suspension that old and an extra 100 pounds or so on it, you would expect a little sag and resulting negative camber. Not the case.
Positives: the knuckles cost $50 and came with almost new pads, the 91 ex mc cost $45, da rotors were $21/a piece. Stops great.
I would do it again, actually, I would hunt harder for 91 ex knuckles but I'm happy with this setup and I have a gc/koni suspension waiting to be installed and I'm hoping the 1.5" drop I have planned will rectify the camber issue.
holy misinformation...
da knuckles are longer. camber will be affected, more positive. how much, i dont know. i went with ex knuckles cause i want more neg camber.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have da knuckles on my crx and I find this statement to be accurate. The da knuckles are taller and effect the geometry in a way that is noticeable to the driver. Steering inputs seem slightly exaggerated, i.e. quicker, and not in the "oh boy, my steering feels quicker!" but in that it feels a little touchy. Car tracks straight, just quick to come off center. Seems like a caster issue, but I'm no expert. My smaller diameter steering wheel probably contributes to this as well.
Car is on stock, 17 year old springs with a b20vtec swap sittin' on it and definitely no negative camber, in fact, the outer part of my tires are slightly more worn than the inner. The wheels look virtually straight up and down, the tire wear indicates otherwise. With suspension that old and an extra 100 pounds or so on it, you would expect a little sag and resulting negative camber. Not the case.
Positives: the knuckles cost $50 and came with almost new pads, the 91 ex mc cost $45, da rotors were $21/a piece. Stops great.
I would do it again, actually, I would hunt harder for 91 ex knuckles but I'm happy with this setup and I have a gc/koni suspension waiting to be installed and I'm hoping the 1.5" drop I have planned will rectify the camber issue.
This DA knuckle swap affects your camber slightly when the car is stationary, but it also changes the camber curve as your suspension travels up and down. This is the main reason why I steered (no pun intended) away from using the DA arms. It would cause a bit of odd camber when experiencing weight transfer in the vehicle while braking. (or any other situation where the suspension has travelled up or down while cornering).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_ED3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Great information Tommy!
You described the steering feel after DA knuckles better than I've seen anyone else do it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
w3rd.
You described the steering feel after DA knuckles better than I've seen anyone else do it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
w3rd.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JesseCRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Has anyone actually tried using real EF8 front suspension(control arms, knuckles, brakes)??
How do these fit on a USDM Chassis?
Any problems?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The EF8/EF9 knuckles is similar to the DA knuckle in appearance, but are the same height as the 90-91 EX knuckle. the main difference seems to be the hub offest, and the location of the tie rod mounting point, which is more inboard. this requires you to cut and rethread your inner tie rods to make it work.
check this post for more accurate information about the differences:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca/DrOhm/SiRkuckles.html
How do these fit on a USDM Chassis?
Any problems?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The EF8/EF9 knuckles is similar to the DA knuckle in appearance, but are the same height as the 90-91 EX knuckle. the main difference seems to be the hub offest, and the location of the tie rod mounting point, which is more inboard. this requires you to cut and rethread your inner tie rods to make it work.
check this post for more accurate information about the differences:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca/DrOhm/SiRkuckles.html
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post





