i just got my car tuned today, and i made a disappointing 173whp/117tq...my setup is in my sig(wiseco 12:1CR, 81.5mm bore)...the thing is, my head is milled about .040" and i thought if you mill your head, cam timing can gain alot of HP...i told that to my tuner and he was just like, the most is about 1-2whp, so he didnt touch them at all...i spent 2.5 hours there and that is all we could muster out...the air/fuel was not too great either(up and down just about every where)...he said everytime he advanced the timing, the HP would go up, but then he said he'll stop advancing cuz he doesnt want it to detonate...but the weird thing is, he set the intial timing at 14-15 degrees and advanced it 2-3 degrees only...isn't that just stock timing?...anyways, should i get this thing retuned...if so, where should i take it...i'm in seattle,wa.

 

Cam timing matters, its essential and if you are set at 0,0 with a milled head, most likely the cam timing is off.

 

that is what i was thinking...my cams are set at 0,0...he tried +2in,-2ex...the car would idle for a little bit, then die...i dont know what the cause of that was...but he just said, "the car doesnt like it" and put it back to 0,0 and left it at that.

 

bump this cuz i'm hella disappointed in my numbers.

 

for every .01 the head is milled retard you cam gears .5 deg

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LG_R32 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for every .01 the head is milled retard you cam gears .5 deg </TD></TR></TABLE> i dont think that is always true

also, what type of gas were you using? since your're already at 12.1, and you milled you head .040, your compression might be to high to run 91

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zer0-psi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that is what i was thinking...my cams are set at 0,0...he tried +2in,-2ex...the car would idle for a little bit, then die...i dont know what the cause of that was...but he just said, "the car doesnt like it" and put it back to 0,0 and left it at that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You've gotta reset base timing every time you adjust cam timing. I believe it should be set at 16 degrees. Your tuner doesn't sound competent. Cam timing makes a difference. I picked up ~8 whp and a better power band from cam timing. Where did you go to get this car tuned? Also, what are you tuning with?

 

Cam timing matters a great deal. The reason the car idled like crap at +2, -2 is the increased overlap-vacuum drops and you are running on a richer part of the air fuel map. Your tuner sounds fairly incompetent, or he was in a hurry and did not give a crap about your car. With a milled head your cam timing is retarded. I have found that if you make cam timing changes one degree at a time, you can find out pretty quickly what your particular motor likes.

 

What cams are you running? Basics say put them at 104 center-lines, timing at 750 RPM 16 degrees or the middle.

 

i'm running buddy club spec 4's with about 12:1 compression...i need a new tuner.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zer0-psi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm running buddy club spec 4's with about 12:1 compression...i need a new tuner.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn BC4's with 12.1 compression??? YES YOU DO need a new tuner. Like I told you, look up C-Speed, I've only heard good things about their tuning capabilities. Sadly, there aren't a lot of competent shops that do tuning in Washington.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cam timing matters a great deal. The reason the car idled like crap at +2, -2 is the increased overlap-vacuum drops and you are running on a richer part of the air fuel map. Your tuner sounds fairly incompetent, or he was in a hurry and did not give a crap about your car. With a milled head your cam timing is retarded. I have found that if you make cam timing changes one degree at a time, you can find out pretty quickly what your particular motor likes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

There you go! Whenever he said +2 in -2 exhaust I was like wtf. Are you sure u didnt mean +2 exhaust? If you want to decrease the overlap you have to advance the exhaust a lil more than the intake.

It reallysounds to me like he didnt give a **** about it.

 

thanks guys for all the replies...oh and also, did i mention he wouldn't tune my car with open header?...i used a coat hanger to hold on the stock cat so i can drive there(the 2.5" collector would not go in the stock cat)...so the whole purpose was to just take off the wires and drop the cat...but he did not want to at all...so i know i lost power there, the gases rushing out of the header was pretty much just hitting the cat, making it rattle really loud...

i've been looking into c-speed and also torquefreaks in portland, oregon...do any of you guys know them?...and i also know ISA in tacoma is associated with c-speed too...is this correct?

 

anymore advice?