I took my shocks out to inspect and test yesterday before the installation this weekend. When I put the **** on the shock and turn it, I can't feel or hear any sort of click. How will I know what setting it's currently on and how will I know when to stop turning?

Thanks HT.

 

Koni Yellows do not click. They are a continuous adjustment. This makes them easy to add just a little more rebound but makes it harder to repeat adjustements.

You should be able to do about 2 turns from full soft to full hard.

I always count turns relative to full soft.

 

will it stop when i've reached full soft or full hard? e.g. i cannot turn the **** any further

 

yes, it should stop at full soft/hard

 

cool. so when i install it, i'll set it to full soft and adjust from there.

thanks again ht..

 

Back it off from full soft about 1/8th of a turn - never leave them at full soft or full hard, always back off a bit or you can damage the shock adjuster.

 

and you should get about 2 full turns witht hem

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Back it off from full soft about 1/8th of a turn - never leave them at full soft or full hard, always back off a bit or you can damage the shock adjuster.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How so?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cruizinmax &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How so?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have no idea how these things work. Most likely some sort of magic or voodoo.... i just know (first hand) that you dont leave them full soft/hard

 

somehow he is right..if ur using stiff spring and get on soft might damage the shock..or soft spring with stiff shock. so just leave them on somwhere on middle

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rusted VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">somehow he is right..if ur using stiff spring and get on soft might damage the shock..or soft spring with stiff shock. so just leave them on somwhere on middle</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is completely incorrect.

My point was you do not want to be hard on the stop for full soft or full hard - back it off just a little bit. I has nothing to do with the damping of the shock, something to do with the adjuster internally.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have no idea how these things work. Most likely some sort of magic or voodoo.... i just know (first hand) that you dont leave them full soft/hard </TD></TR></TABLE>

What happens to them, in your experience. I have never damaged a koni by running them full soft or hard. Not to say that it can't happen, I just wanted to know how or what happens.

 

I have heard of situations where someone left it at full soft or full hard and after a few months the external adjustment thing seized (ceased?) and they were no longer able to turn it.
My Koni Sport instructions mention none of this, but I'd back off a quarter turn from full stop just to be sure.
Also, the Koni instructions seem to indicate a range of 360 degrees yet most of us are able to get almost two full turns.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Back it off from full soft about 1/8th of a turn - never leave them at full soft or full hard, always back off a bit or you can damage the shock adjuster.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have never heard this before. I have run my rear Konis either full-hard (while autocrossing) or full soft (while on the street) for 2 years without problem.

While, I don't doubt you, RJ, I've just never heard word one on this subject. I would like to hear what CRXLee has to say on the subject.

Lee, are you out there?? .....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00R101 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have never heard this before. I have run my rear Konis either full-hard (while autocrossing) or full soft (while on the street) for 2 years without problem.

While, I don't doubt you, RJ, I've just never heard word one on this subject. I would like to hear what CRXLee has to say on the subject.

Lee, are you out there?? .....</TD></TR></TABLE>

since reading RJ's reply, i've become paranoid so i've never ever run my yellows at the extremes... i've always backed it off about 45 degrees from max or min...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My point was you do not want to be hard on the stop for full soft or full hard - back it off just a little bit. I has nothing to do with the damping of the shock, something to do with the adjuster internally.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I seem to remember CRX Lee saying something to this extent a while back.

 

Crap. I heard about not having them full stiff, but not full soft before.

I've been running full soft for about 1000 miles or so.

 

I do remember CRX Lee saying never run them at full stiff in a previous post. I don't recall anything about full soft, though. My daily drive adjustment is one twist after full soft anyway, but glad I read this.

Anyway, as mentioned, Yellows don't have "clicks" or detents. I gauge my adjustments by the twist of my hand. Not exactly the most sophisticated nor most accurate, obviously. I've been thinking of setting each shock at full soft, put the **** atop each, and make identifying marks on the **** so I know when a true revolution has been completed for each shock. Been a little lazy, though. I suppose you can also gauge by the picture, but whatever.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Daniel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I do remember CRX Lee saying never run them at full stiff in a previous post. I don't recall anything about full soft, though. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Same here... Lee, you out there?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00R101 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Lee, are you out there?? .....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry, working on the racecar late to head out tomorrow.

It is not a bad idea to not run the shock to the absolute last fraction of a turn as there is potential that the adjuster could jam, actually the internal nut just could get a little bit tighter than the torque that the 4mm diameter x about 16 inch long adjuster rod can apply. This is not super common but it does happen every now and then so when I use a shock setting at the min or max point, I turn it until it stops then back it off maybe 1/16th of a turn. This is not really enough at the end of the spectrum to alter the valving (bleed holes aren't reach in the last fraction) but it keeps from risking a mechanical bind that the mild steel adjuster rod can't undo.

Think of simply holding a regular bolt and spinning a nut on with your fingertips. It is possible to tighten the nut up against the underside of the head into thread bind to the point that you may not be able to spin it back free with your bare fingertips. Same basic scenario. If you leave it a wee bit off the thread bind point then you will still be able to spin the nut off with your fingertips at a later time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Sorry, working on the racecar late to head out tomorrow.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

No need for apologies, I know how it can be...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> actually the internal nut just could get a little bit tighter than the torque that the 4mm diameter x about 16 inch long adjuster rod can apply. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's totally understandable; I still have trouble comprehending the whole adjuster **** design thing. I couldn't understand how running full soft or hard could internally damage the shock; and now I know why, becuase it really doesn't Great info, as always

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AutoXer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I couldn't understand how running full soft or hard could internally damage the shock; and now I know why, becuase it really doesn't Great info, as always </TD></TR></TABLE>

Right. It' isn't the force or the valving, it the is the mechanical tool that you use to adjust it remotely essentially. That is why the **** is made of soft plastic- so if something gets stuck or has trouble, the soft plastic is the weakest link so it will sacrifice itself rather than overloading and breaking the adjuster J-hook which automatically requires the shock to come apart to be fixed.

 

^^

that makes alot of sense

 

define stiff spring

 

A spring with a compression rate over 400 lbs/in. (subjective)