sup guys,

when i got my alternator changed at honda the mechanic asked me about mi crazy rpm gauge and said it was a sensor. Is he talking about replacing the o2 sensor??? How much would that cost??? Also, could someone explain to me what is double-clutching and good or bad??? thanks

 

Search and you'll get information like no other...

Question: so when i down shift and hit the gas with the clutch pushed down to bring up the rpms for a smooth down shift... that's just regular rev-matching right? i would assume that it reduces wear on the clutch RIGHT?

Answer: It reduces wear on the synchros but INCREASES wear on the clutch (as it's being engaged/disengaged twice instead of once)

Question: What about for upshifting when you let the engine fall to the right rpm before the clutch goes in that's normal and is better for the clutch then just dropping it... also rev-matching.

Answer: Yeah only you're just letting it happen instead of making it happen (by letting the clutch out in neutral and reving)... and yes it's easier on the clutch UNLIKE revmatching to down shift (either by double clutching or just by gassing it while the clutch pedal is still down.) or "double clutching" to upshift in a truck (which causes more wear on the clutch as it's being engaged/disengaged twice AND the second eng./diseng. it's at higher rpms (more wear on clutch again).

Double Clutching is only for non-syncro gears... like reverse or if you're tranny is fucked as far as i know...

Double clutching is NOT to get into reverse... when reverse is not selected it isn't spinning... PLUS the secondary shaft isn't spinning (as the wheels are not turning) so there are no "revs" to "match"... putting the clutch in/out while parked makes the primary shaft spin (changing the possition of the reverse gear (ie rotating it) so when you put the clutch back in to select reverse it has now stopped in a different point of rotation... SO now IF it stopped in a "lined up" position with the selector it can be engaged w/o problem... HOWEVER if it stops at a similar point in rotation it will be just as hard to engage...

Bringing up the rpms to get into reverse is a BAD idea... reason being... It makes it so after the clutch is engaged the primary shaft is still spinning... so now the reverse gear is NOT stopped so when you go to select it you can just force the selector in.. (usually resulting in a NICE grinding noise (as there is no synchro for the reverse gear)... which is you destroying your reverse gear...

SO... best way to get into reverse is to engage/disengage the clutch multiple times in neutral WAITING a second or two to ENSURE that the primary shaft has had sufficient time to stop. If it's still "locked out" then do it again... eventually it will stop in the right place instead of you forcing the selector in.

 

when i search i got stuff about o2 sensors for other engines...i just want to know if i need to replace my o2 sensor and if that is the problem???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drewcandraw &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when i search i got stuff about o2 sensors for other engines...i just want to know if i need to replace my o2 sensor and if that is the problem???</TD></TR></TABLE>

o2 is for emissions. Has nothing to do with tachometer. jumpy tach sounds like ignitor to me, although i'm not sure. someone back me up here.

p.s. no matter what vin diesel says, double clutching when upshifting is stupid.

 

where is the o2 sensor located and when should i replace that???thanks