Well after two months I finally got all my partrs and the car back together. I origanlly bought it for 500 bucks about a year ago. It had a bunch of stereo stuff a sub and amp and such and since I weasnt into that kind of stuff I pawned it off for like 200 bucks. This Kid didnt know what he had. His dad was the original owner. I have the service records all the way back to the original sales invoice. The car was in Texas and California most of its life so it has no rust. It had 160,000 miles on it and needed some minor little things a tune up I guess. The car is my daily driver/ 20 or so autocrosses a year car. I am running CSP this year. SO I have replaced all of the bushings with energy suspension ones except for the Rear trailing arm I put the mugen ones in there. I am running Koni yellows with ground control Coilovers 400/450 spring rates. Still the stock front sway bar and I have a rear one off an SI but havnt got a chance to put it on yet. Inside the car I relocated the battery to the back installed a Autopower 4 point a Fixed back seat and 5 point harness. I really like the way the car rides now. The Wheels are 14 inch BMW wheels pretty light and I got them cheap and I have a set of Falken Azenis on them. My first autocross with this setup is this weekend so I will se how it handles for sure. Let me know what you think. The good bad and the ugly .
From this



to this

 

any motor shots?

 

Nope sorry none yet. Nothing exciting to look at there anyways it is all stock. That was going to be my other question what Mods do you think I should do next.

 

what guage power wire are you running from the back, it looks small in the pic, at least use 2 guage or bigger but i would go 0 guage to be safe or overkill, ha.

 

Pix aren't coming up?

Alex

 

HHHmmmm I am not sure why the pics are not coming up. That is 4 Gauge wire you really think it is too small? That is the same size as they sell in all of the premade kits.

 

it just looks small compared to the ground wire, like i said overkill for me, lol
i can see the pics

 

aaahhh yah that is just the way the picture is taken then because the ground wire is 4 gauge as well. This battery (Odyssey) sure cranks the car over a lot better than that old battery I had. Wow no comments at all yet on what it looks like.

 

I think it looks clean, i don't see any rust at all just have fun in the rex, actually i know you will, especially on the track.

 

pics arent working for me

but if i'm reading the posts correctly and your battery is in the back, you should run 2ga wire. 4 is not enough. it won't show as many amps to the front as you'd like, and it will get quite warm.

sounds nice though! i want to see the pics

 

yeah, thats what i was thinking, check and see if the power wire gets hot after driving your car for a while

 

i posted the calculations and a diagram a while back. it's floating around the h-t archives somewhere, but i didn't find it in the few minutes i looked.

but really, just get 2ga.

 

Pics no workie

 

geez that battery is HUGE

 

<u>ALWAYS</u> run 0ga for power and 2ga for ground, distribution block in engine bay anywhere??, have a turn off switch somewhere near by you in cockpit, and that battery should have a cover over it just incase it explodes or leaks..

not really needed but a grounding kit in the engine bay may be good as well.

i dont know how they let you run.. they just take your money and on you go racing. same here at the track or scca events, i have a rubber (1) bungy cord holding battery and other things i wont mention that most notice.

 

whare did th pics go?

 

like everyone else said do something with the battery wiring, as far as motor mods go(if youre not planning on a swap) id say get a better cam, deffiently exhaust, first thing id do is get a lighter flywheel and better clutch/short shifter. just with that youd improve at the track ALOT and still keep a good reliability and mpg for your daily driving side. but further mods id say bigger injetors an intake if you want to. but all in all maybe a nice b16 would be a good idea. hope some of it helped/gave you ideas.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BRAD 1.8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe a nice b16 would be a good idea. hope some of it helped/gave you ideas. </TD></TR></TABLE>

that would jump him up in a very competitive class SM2. probably just come in last or 2nd to last. them miatas suck and every other 2 seater rwd car sucks they win mostly.

a nice exospeed race cam would be good, with b series injectors, fpr, 4-2-1, 2.25" catback, 2.5" CAI. advance timing and get it cracking.

3" ram air, 4-1, 2.5" exhaust wouldnt be as responsive, and wouldn't be suited for a honda thats in solo 2

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PaImportTuner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><u>ALWAYS</u> run 0ga for power and 2ga for ground, distribution block in engine bay anywhere??, have a turn off switch somewhere near by you in cockpit, and that battery should have a cover over it just incase it explodes or leaks..

not really needed but a grounding kit in the engine bay may be good as well.

i dont know how they let you run.. they just take your money and on you go racing. same here at the track or scca events, i have a rubber (1) bungy cord holding battery and other things i wont mention that most notice.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

wire ga. is related to length. in an ef (pretty short car) , with my calculations for resistance based on 10 ft., 2ga. power wire is required. 0ga is overkill, and will just add weight. this is for a stock car as far as electrical loads go.

edit: pics still don't work for me- error is "user has exceeded daily use limit" if i paste the address into another window.


Modified by rsca_crx at 4:12 PM 5/12/2005

 

Host the pics somewhere else yo!

Alex

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PaImportTuner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
that would jump him up in a very competitive class SM2. probably just come in last or 2nd to last. them miatas suck and every other 2 seater rwd car sucks they win mostly.

a nice exospeed race cam would be good, with b series injectors, fpr, 4-2-1, 2.25" catback, 2.5" CAI. advance timing and get it cracking.

3" ram air, 4-1, 2.5" exhaust wouldnt be as responsive, and wouldn't be suited for a honda thats in solo 2
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have to *respectfully* disagree with you. A CRX can be competitive against a Miata (one of the few FWD cars that can be).

Also, a cam upgrade will also throw you into SM2.


If your goal is to stay in CSP and be competitive/dominant, I suggest you start with a good set of race tires (Hoosiers, etc.) The rubber will run you about $800-$1000, but you will benefit the most from this mod. Then, move on to sway bars and more suspension tuning. Your springs/shocks are pretty good, but you could go stiffer on the springs if you wanted. Once you're done with that, get an intake, 2.5in straight-through exhaust, hi-flow cat, and a header. The specifics/brands don't really matter that much, and you'll benefit far less from power mods for the price you pay. But they're fun to have. That should get you consistent top 3 finishes in CSP (assuming you're a good driver). And if you decide to bump yourself to SM2, you're waaaay more prepared to compete.

EDIT: BTW, you pics aren't working, but I'm assuming you have an Si. The D16A6's low rod ratio is a decided advantage in a Solo2 atmosphere. That extra torque really helps accelerate out of the corners, and most autox courses are too short/quick for the Si's lack of top end to show its weakness. This is the reason that the 88-91 Civic Si is the nationals STS car of choice.

 

Does someone know a good place for me to host myy pics. I have checked my wire after running a full electical load for about an hour and the wire isnt even the slightest bit warm. I also talked to a battery place again and they said that should be totally fine it is a small cart and it isnt like I am running some huge stereo.
Nope the car is not a SI it is a DX so I have that big old 1.5 liter and the shitty tranny. I think I got a old SI tranny for free it just needs to be rebuilt. I am going to wait until Next year for Race rubber. This is my first full season and everyone says you learn bad habbits when you learn to drive on Race tires. But next year for sure. The spring rates I think are just about right for the courses we have up here. We are not running on perfectly smmoth surfaces like a National event so if I go stiff the car would just skip all over the place. I think a Header Intake exhaust like you said as well as a MPFI swap would really help my engine breathe a little. If someone lets me know a good picture hosting place I will get them back up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wacrxguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does someone know a good place for me to host myy pics. </TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.we-todd-racing.com

Hell yeah, fellow WA autocrosser! Do you have a link to events in the spokane area? Here is the link to our local events, http://www.ssscc.org

Weren't you in tri-cities for one of our winter heat events? The pic of your car in your avatar looks familiar.


Modified by 96-EJ6 B18C at 2:48 AM 5/13/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rsca_crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wire ga. is related to length. in an ef (pretty short car) , with my calculations for resistance based on 10 ft., 2ga. power wire is required. 0ga is overkill, and will just add weight. this is for a stock car as far as electrical loads go.

edit: pics still don't work for me- error is "user has exceeded daily use limit" if i paste the address into another window.


Modified by rsca_crx at 4:12 PM 5/12/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

always use 0ga, overkill or not always use it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Servo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have to *respectfully* disagree with you. A CRX can be competitive against a Miata (one of the few FWD cars that can be).

Also, a cam upgrade will also throw you into SM2.


If your goal is to stay in CSP and be competitive/dominant, I suggest you start with a good set of race tires (Hoosiers, etc.) The rubber will run you about $800-$1000, but you will benefit the most from this mod. Then, move on to sway bars and more suspension tuning. Your springs/shocks are pretty good, but you could go stiffer on the springs if you wanted. Once you're done with that, get an intake, 2.5in straight-through exhaust, hi-flow cat, and a header. The specifics/brands don't really matter that much, and you'll benefit far less from power mods for the price you pay. But they're fun to have. That should get you consistent top 3 finishes in CSP (assuming you're a good driver). And if you decide to bump yourself to SM2, you're waaaay more prepared to compete.

EDIT: BTW, you pics aren't working, but I'm assuming you have an Si. The D16A6's low rod ratio is a decided advantage in a Solo2 atmosphere. That extra torque really helps accelerate out of the corners, and most autox courses are too short/quick for the Si's lack of top end to show its weakness. This is the reason that the 88-91 Civic Si is the nationals STS car of choice.</TD></TR></TABLE>yeah, i recently started autocrossing and i got put into sm2 because of my swap. Let me tell you, those are some fast cars/drivers, they kick my ***. Im only out there to have fun thouggh and could care less if i win.


nice rex man