ok i was looking around and in search of a ls block or a gsr block, and i noticed that the ls block i can find for cheap like 100 to 300 bucks and for the gsr block i have found them for 500 bucks. but the ls block i would have to spend another 100 to 200 bucks for the lsvtec convertion kit. so i was wondering am i better off just buying a gsr block or get the ls block and do the convertion? and what are the pros and cons of getting the ls block, and what are the pros and cons of getting the gsr block!

 

if done right the lsvtec will have a ton of torque, the reason being it is a longer stroke rate than the GSR block. Personally I love my lsvtec, it pulls very hard and I have had no problems with it(now going on 4 years). But make sure everything is done right, this kind of swap seems to be pretty touchy because most people are just throwing them together.

good luck

 

hey thanks for the reply man so what all do i need for the lsvtec just the lsvtec kit?

 

I would personally run ARP rod bolts, ARP head studs, VTEC oil pump, and the Golden Eagle VTEC conversion kit (oil adapter, oil lines, fittings, head gasket, dowel pins), at the very minimum. One of the most common failures of LS/VTEC is the rod bolts, so I would definatly consider upgrading those. I'm actually considering putting together a new project. Most likely will be going the LS/VTEC route as mentioned above but with a GSR girdle and forged internals (boosted).

Anyways, good luck on your build and definatly take your time. This is definatly not a cheap hobby so might as well do it right the first time (at least if you're poor like me).

 

ARP rod bolts are a must in my book, if you plan to really push the engine, they are only about $40 and will save you so much stress down the line.

 

I think the GSR block has oil squirters which is a huge bonus as well as the girdle. I would get the GSR block personally, the less stroke is a small price to pay for the superior block IMO.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tmack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think the GSR block has oil squirters which is a huge bonus as well as the girdle. I would get the GSR block personally, the less stroke is a small price to pay for the superior block IMO.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And you can always use an LS crank in a GSR block.

 

definately go w/ the GSR block!!!! oil squirters &gt; the small amt of torque youll gain

 

you guy do know that oil squirters are needed not when running forged pistons?
There is also a big debate on oil squirters messing with high rpm stability.

The ls rods(even though not as efficient in stock app.) have their own ''oil squirting'' passages.
As far as aftermarket rod bolts; They are a must since stock 8mm bolts stretch. But its not $40 to get them and put them on..thats the wrong way of doing it.there is more to it.
When you torque the Arp's to spec they will egg shape the rod end; a little a lot; but it will. You have to get the rod resized to get it perfectly round again.
Unless you like to run the risk of spun bearings.

I would balance before i get a girdle.Girdles are only good if you do lots of high speed runs..

edit: corrected


Modified by mmuller at 6:30 PM 5/11/2005

 

[QUOTE=mmuller]you guy do know that oil squirters are needed when running forged pistons?
There is also a big debate on oil squirters messing with high rpm stability.
[QUOTE]

how come some builders plug up the squirters when going w/ forged pistons? I think Earl had posted something about not really needing them in the FI forum.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18Flip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how come some builders plug up the squirters when going w/ forged pistons? I think Earl had posted something about not really needing them in the FI forum.</TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry, i ment are NOT needed, corrected

 

So do you guys think is safe spinning the ls/vtec setup w/o a girdle to 9k? Ofcourse this would be w/ upgraded springs/retainers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18Flip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So do you guys think is safe spinning the ls/vtec setup w/o a girdle to 9k? Ofcourse this would be w/ upgraded springs/retainers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think it's difficult to say. Hopefully someone can give us some insight on LS cranks at high RPMs. From what I understand, the girdle is designed to reinforce and reduce vibrations from the crank at high RPMs. I *think* the LS cranks will have a bit more movement/vibration at higher RPMs, being that they were not designed for that type of use to begin with. So it would seem the girdle would definatly be a good thing to have for an LS crank at higher RPMs. But this is just all speculation on my part. I've always wondered if anyone has actually tested the LS crank on some sort of machine that simulates high RPMs. Until then, I think it's all going to be just based on peoples experience.

 

why do you want, to rev to 9k, most stock setups or even mild build don't make power in that range. For my LSvtec even with a mild build, I shift at 7500-8000, if I go higher I fall out of the powerband.

 

it'll be on a boosted application with upgraded rods

 

I just had a GSR completely build, sleeves, 84mm pistons, rods, Port, polish oversize valves the whole nine yards. So I recently pondered the same things you did. I chose the GSR, not to say it is better. My main concern was Strength. This is a FI application going to 25-30 PSI.

With the LS block the R/S ratio is better, you can get after market girgles and all the other parts to do Vtec, ect. to bring it up to GSR strength. I personally did not feel it was worth the extra $$$. One thing I consider a must is a fluid dampener on the nose of the crank. They are much better than the stock harmonic balancers.

It comes down to your choice and budget.

 

so gsr seems to be the way to go then

 

i'll be using an LS crank for my build .....i wanted i bit more tq

 

oil squiters are worthless on anything other than the stock CAST pistons. im building an lsvtec turbo setup. almost done.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SP00LIN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oil squiters are worthless on anything other than the stock CAST pistons. im building an lsvtec turbo setup. almost done. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yo keep me posted because my boy has a gsr block for sale that is fully worked i might get that from him

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18Flip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'll be using an LS crank for my build .....i wanted i bit more tq </TD></TR></TABLE>

so what is the deal with using an ls crank i thought it would make the pistons stick out more

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civiclxb16a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so what is the deal with using an ls crank i thought it would make the pistons stick out more</TD></TR></TABLE>

i never have understood this concept either, especailly since a lot of aftermarket pistons go zero deck height like my JE pistons.

 

what about a b17 block my boy just rolled up to my house with a resleeved completely clean looking b17a1 block i was loving it, but i found some specs on it and it looks the same as my b16
the b17 has 160 hp and 117 tq and the bore is 81 but the stroke is 81.4 my b16 is 81 bore and 77.4 stroke but how is it that they have the same hp and only 6 more on the tq? but anyway i have not found much on that block like the rods and i did a calulation with compression if i change the pistons to pr3 or p30 the compression jumps up to 10.5:1 or 10.6:1 is that a good build?? or stick with the b18c? also can i add the obd2a sensors to a obd1 block?

 

Ls crank in a gsr block is a great combo. This will be my next setup. You have to run LS rods in the setup, and make sure you do the math to calculate your commpression. It all changes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Garcia-Racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ls crank in a gsr block is a great combo. This will be my next setup. You have to run LS rods in the setup, and make sure you do the math to calculate your commpression. It all changes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

makes me feel good about going w/ the LS crank for the new build