Morning guys. I need some second, third and forth opinions. In my car, is the following: B18C5 Block, ITR transmission, intake manifold and cams. It had a B16 head on it with a Mugen headgasket until last night. I got ahold of a mildly built 2000 ITR head. So, i got a new mugen headgasket, new ARP bolts, new gaskets and etc. I switched it all over last night, and now it seems that i have no compression. Now the only think I can think of, is that I didnt drain any of the fluids when i did this. (Im an idiot I know.) I put the studs in, put the headgasket on (with copper spray), slid the head back down, (Thats a pain in the *** by yourself) and torqued all the bolts to 75lbft with ARP assembly lube.


Now because I didnt drain the fluid, some coolant got into a cylinder or two, i soaked it all up with a paper towel and that should be good. The one thing I DID do which I wish i didnt, was crank the engine over before i torqed any of the headbolts. Im wondering if this forced coolant or oil into the headgasket area and now its not sealing. After i tightened it all down, you could almost hear the sound of water squishing when you turned the crank. So... any of you guys have any ideas why I wouldnt have compression?

BTW: this is posted in tech too, but no one pays attention to that forum..

 

this forum moves too damn fast lol.

 

This is probably not the answer you want to hear, but I think you should pull it apart and start over doing everything by the book. Drain the fluids and make sure there's not fluid in the holes where the studs go either. (Blow it out with compressed air)

 

One thing to look at before you rip it back apart:

Did you hook up the cam belt and setup the cams correctly?

 

Yea I expect to take it all apart again. The cams and the crank pully are set to TDC perfectly. I've done this previously with no problems. I think it might be the fluid problem. But you would figure, with the head bolts tightened to that high lbft, i would force all of the fluid out. But I could be wrong... its like it has NO compression at all. The head came off a car working, so I dont think its the head, although it is a possibilty. I crank it with the starter and it just spins..

 

Keeping it at the top...

 

Torquing down a "sealed" part does not force the fluids out, it compresses it even more. If you try torquing the head down with fluid in the stud holes, you can crack casing.

 

Do a valve adjustment on it. They might be set to tight and not allow the valves to close and you want build compression. Just something to look into.

 

Good point. Either way its coming off again. There may be fluid stuck under there. That is the only thing i can think of.

 

Ok I found out the head had RS Racing cams in it previously, and the valves were adjusted for those cams. Could this possibly be the problem? Im running stock 00 ITR cams.

 

damn this forum.. bump.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok I found out the head had RS Racing cams in it previously, and the valves were adjusted for those cams. Could this possibly be the problem? Im running stock 00 ITR cams. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That could be the problem. Valve lash on both cams might be different. Do a valve adjustment and see if it clears the problem.

 

Ill give it a shot. If not, ill be bumping this later lol. Thanks all.

 

I know i keep posting up, but, this thing has NO compression... Im betting on the valves possibly, but im not sure... any more ideas are welcome.

 

why would you try to start the engine without torquing the head bolts first??? first thing you should do is get a shop manual and read until you understand how the internal combustion engine works. Then try working on your car.

 

Look smart ***, I said it was a mistake. I have done this many times before. Dont come here talking ****, Im just trying to see where the problem could be. So eat me.

 

=P

 

If there is NO compression then wouldnt that mean that the valves are stuck open? Are the cam gears positioned with the "top" marking on the top?

 

it IS the valves, just adjust them and it will be all good.

 

Ill be back later to confirm.... hopefully.

Thanks again guys.

 

I'm the smart *** but even a chimp knows not to start an engine when you dont have the head bolts torqued. why didnt you just leave the head off and start the engine? you would have gotten the same result. Rule #1 when working on an engine- THINK.

 

**** off dude. Seriously. IT WAS A MISTAKE. AFter working on a car for 12 straight hours, your bound to fuckup, but im sure you've never done that right?

People come on here to HELP people. Not be a dick.

Oh, and i didnt start the engine moron. Read. Turned it over by hand to reach TDC.

 

Good luck with that. Sucks when you have to rip it apart for a moment's lapse in judgment.

 

Just go adjust the valves and then worry. I seriously doubt it has anything to do with the headgasket itself. And just for future notes, throw the "copper spray" away. I don't know why everyone likes to use it with headgaskets around this place.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just go adjust the valves and then worry. I seriously doubt it has anything to do with the headgasket itself. And just for future notes, throw the "copper spray" away. I don't know why everyone likes to use it with headgaskets around this place.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you have fluid in the stud holes, you really need to take it apart again to avoid the possibility of cracking the casing. And make sure you drain everything because mixing oil and antifreeze is bad even in small amounts. After it's back together, try the valve adjustment.