i just got a 1990 CRX with a b16 motor($1300) in it i have been looking on the net for a header but its a tight fit and it doesnt leave that much to work with is there a header that will fit it(where can i look for parts for it)

 

u got a CRX with a b16 for 1300? DAMN GOOD DEAL

 

OEM or aftermarket ITR 4to1 or aftermarket b16a headers will bolt up. they only have a single wire o2 sensor low in the collector however , so if you plan on staying obd0, you need to add the bungs like your current header has by the block...

the newer o2s are 4 wire with a heating element, and work properly low on the collector.

to fit almost anything but the stock header you need to notch the front crossmember. works fine. OR if you feel like speanding the money you can also buy an aftermarket one:

 

I personally would stay with the stock B16 header, or upgrade to a ITR / CTR header, honda spent a lot of time on them and they flow pretty wel and i have seen dyno's that show the CTR / ITR wins over a few after market headers. enless you are looking to spend a pretty penny (something around 800-1500) i would just stick with stock or go to ITR / CTR. and save the money twards something else : ) just my two cents :D

 

For an inexpensive good header I would look at the 4-2-1 Megan header. I used the 91 Integra header where the O2 sensor was located in the upper primary, and I added the bung for the second sensor. It also gives good ground clearance compared to any 4-1 that I've seen.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For an inexpensive good header I would look at the 4-2-1 Megan header. I used the 91 Integra header where the O2 sensor was located in the upper primary, and I added the bung for the second sensor. It also gives good ground clearance compared to any 4-1 that I've seen.</TD></TR></TABLE>

DC 1 piece 4-2-1 or Kamikaze

 

I looked for the Kamikaze when I was searching but was unable to locate one. Also looked at the DC 4-2-1 1pc. But the problem for me was that I took a JDM SOHC ZC 1 pc. off my old D series that came in the car and the 1 piece was absolutely a bitch to get off. With the 2 pc. B series I notched out the front crossmember because the header bolts sat right on it and I had enough cut out to easily bolt on the bottom half. So in short, the 2 pc. makes install much easier.
Also I had a D series DC on my old EJ, along with a cheapo Ractive before, and a Stillen after that, the DC cost me the most but IMO it wasn't the best (Stillen was). So I wouldn't lean towards DC again.

 

I wouldn't get the DC 4-1, I have it and I ended up bottoming it out and now there is a large scrape at the collector, almost through the metal.

 

lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx34 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't get the DC 4-1, I have it and I ended up bottoming it out and now there is a large scrape at the collector, almost through the metal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm running a DC 4-1 header. my car is lowered a bit maybe an inch and a half and i clear alot of road debry bumps speed bumps and all that. if your slammed your scrape, if your not you won't.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx34 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't get the DC 4-1, I have it and I ended up bottoming it out and now there is a large scrape at the collector, almost through the metal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a 4-1 header on my car, and my car is lowered. I do have a skid plate on my header, but it has never once scraped and we have some rough roads in Chicago.