well as a lot of you know i have the JRSC installed on my car. I started off running the kit on the car with only the JR band aids and finally just got a P28 with uberdata, 440cc injectors and a 9 psi pulley.

im no longer using any JR FMUs or other crap

we tried dyno tuning the car a few days ago and results were...

the computer was saying i was maxing out my injectors before i was even entering boost...

the car also detonates, no matter how much fuel is added

the air/fuel gauge is SPASTIC! shoots backs and forth between lean and rich like crazy

cars idle is only so so

if i am driving the car and push more than 5.5psi into it, the car will bog and feel like it doesnt want to go

we already retarded the timing, running very rich and we cant seem to figure out whats going on

i would like to finish dyno tuning, but we think there is something mechanically wrong and not sure what

other factors:

the origional mechanic who installed the charger, put the supercharger belt on wayyyy to tight, and it actually wore down the SC tensioner pulley and put grooves into it, but like 2/10's of an inch

the supercharger is also very noisy at idle and makes a clicking noise, almost clunky noise, not sure whats up with that

the car backfires slightly when comming off the gas and is choppy and picky when it rains out even more than when it's dry

we are not sure if there is a vacuum leak or if something is broken or what, but please any comments would be great

current mods related:

JRSC at 9psi
440cc injectors
p28 ECU running uberdata
DC 4-1 JDM header
T1R cat back 2.5 inch
carsound cat 2.5 inch
JR spark plugs
JR fuel pump
boost/vacuum gauge
a/f gauge
water temp gauge
AEM short ram intake

93 pump gas
pennzoil full synthetic oil

dyno test results before the SC belt ripped apart from comming off the FUGGIN worn down tensioner pulley

135 WTQ at 5psi at 3000 RPMs NOT at WOT, WOT is 9psi
125 WTQ at 5psi at 2500 RPMs torque anyone? lol

this is all i got before the SC belt incident

please help guys, also posting in force induction forum

 

is the charger new or used ?

 

used, had on car for about 8k, bought with about 5k on it

so total of like 13k on it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Azcheron &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the air/fuel gauge is SPASTIC! shoots backs and forth between lean and rich like crazy
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you using the stock narrow band or an aftermarket wide band... the former will produce the above behaviour around 14.7 a/f.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2fanboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Are you using the stock narrow band or an aftermarket wide band... the former will produce the above behaviour around 14.7 a/f.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, yah, but not at WOT it shouldn't. At WOT you should see full rich only.

 

who ur tuner

 

[edit, I'm an idiot and responded to the wrong post. ]


Modified by Chris F at 12:18 AM 5/8/2005

 

something is wrong with your tuner or supercharger or install or any of the aforementioned.....

are your injectors saturated or peak and hold?

are you running a resistor box or inline resistors?

what is your fuel pressure set at (static)?

who is tuning your uberdata?

what map are you using?

 

get hondata and tune the bitch, you wil put down 250WHP no problem!

 

Get rid of uberdata, my car never ran good on that ****. Get crome pro, or if you have the money get hondata. just my opinion

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pwrdbyhonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get rid of uberdata, my car never ran good on that ****. Get crome pro, or if you have the money get hondata. just my opinion</TD></TR></TABLE>

Shut up.

My car runs perfect on uberdata, as does almost every other users.

Check the fuel pump and pressure

 

uberdata has more options than hondata

so that isnt the problem

i was having these same issues before the attempted tuning

 

um... check your belt tensioner&gt; and then go on from there&gt; make sure your tuner can tune uberdata&gt;

 

hes the one who gave me the uberdata

im getting pissed off lately

my luck is so shitty lately

my tires are on back order now too, ergh

 

was the car acting like this when you were using the fmu ?

 

hondata and 10PSI is all you need for 250WHP!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ATgrills.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hondata and 10PSI is all you need for 250WHP!</TD></TR></TABLE>


he wants to kno what could be wrong with his current set up................... he didnt ask if his uberdata and 9 psi would get him those numbers.

p.s

u said ur jrsc was making clankin noises, where these noises there when u got the sc? or did they start acting like this recently? i read a few thread with people saying they heard the same noises coming out the sc and its been the actuall sc unit faulty that might be it not sure but u can check that help this man get **** running right so he can enjoi the bitch

 

thanks mark

the SC started making the noises about 5k miles ago

but its been getting louder

we arent really sure what it is

the car ran very shitty before we just did the upgrade even with the FMUs, but it seemed to be a little less picky at WOT with the jackson band aids

anyone know anymore?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Azcheron &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone know anymore?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had lots of problems recently with misfiring on the dyno. That could cause your A/F to go spastic as unburnt fuel and air go past your o2 sensor (lots of oxygen makes your A/F read lean).

New coil, cap, rotor, smaller gapped plugs, new spark plug wires made the problem go away.

What's your spark plug gap? .028-.032 should work well, mine are now down to .025.

Weak spark would be even worse in the wet/rain due to the humidity, so I would probably start there.

You say the motor is "detonating", are you really sure that's what it is, or could it be a misfire followed by the raw gas/air hitting the exhaust manifold and burning there instead?

 

I hate to say it but if its clunking/clanking it could be the bearings inside the JRSC.Unfortunatly that requires removal of the manifold and blower to fix Does the pulley spin FREELY if you take the blower belt off? It could be a problem with the rotors also.GL finding out what it is.

 

I've been through 2 JRSC setups and they are very tempermental and usually a pain to get running consistently. Do what someone else mentioned and check if the s/c spins pretty freely. Also look to see if the s/c has leaked its internal fluid anywhere. If its leaking or the bearings are shot then its gonna need to be rebuilt.

Also, its pretty common to wear out tensioner pulleys. I think I went through 4 of them between my 2 setups. The belts have to be run fairly tight in order not to slip and higher rpms, and that wears out the tensioners, and even the alternator.

**VERY IMPORTANT**
Another problem I know I encountered is that in order to tune a JRSC car, you have to move the map sensor or configure it differently so that it will actually "see" boost. If you leave it on the throttle body it WILL NOT see correct manifold pressure. If you would like you can PM me and I can help you some more.

 

Im encountering similar problems, mainly just due to the high as hell intake temps. Do you know what psi the pulley was actually putting down??

 

Pics?

 

What was the blower pulley size?

 

the sc unit could be it, i asked my homie and he told me the same **** on the jrsc units with the noise and its the actual unit that might need fixing............ cause he had similar problem's on his jrsc unit and he got it used as well...... but bump for u to get ur **** runnin