b18cR vs K20a2
blew my pistons rings when i turbod my R , now im left with a shell what do u guys think , im goin back to na
jdm b18cR or the K20a2 type s motor(having a hard time finding a type s motor)
I got cash in hand for both just dont no what to do , give me some advice!!!!
jdm b18cR or the K20a2 type s motor(having a hard time finding a type s motor)
I got cash in hand for both just dont no what to do , give me some advice!!!!
yo dawg get dat K-series cuz it be mo powerful wit mo potential. Know what i'm say
On serious note: we've all heard good things about the K20a so i would look towards the future of the K-series' motors
On serious note: we've all heard good things about the K20a so i would look towards the future of the K-series' motors
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxsir29 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">blew my pistons rings when i turbod my R</TD></TR></TABLE>
Rebuild original B18C5? I would imagine that would be cheaper than buying an entire longblock, if not better/stronger?
Rebuild original B18C5? I would imagine that would be cheaper than buying an entire longblock, if not better/stronger?
I think it really depends on your budget..
Keep in mind you have to dish out extra cash for moutns, axles, harness and ecu too.
But if you got the extra bling, K20A for sure.
Keep in mind you have to dish out extra cash for moutns, axles, harness and ecu too.
But if you got the extra bling, K20A for sure.
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im staying n.a and want to keep stock internals , i sold my original swap so im sittin on money , im also having a hard time finding a type s swap , if i decided to part from n.a the most i would do is a supercharger for the cleaner more of a daily driver set up
Modified by crxsir29 at 7:31 AM 5/6/2005
Modified by crxsir29 at 7:31 AM 5/6/2005
yep, rebuild, this way you only do work to the block, reuse the head, transmission and performance parts, get all new seals, pumps and pay 2-3x less than for less powerfull type s swap.. unless you want more reliability but less power, go with k series.. or you could rebuild to stock if you can't afford to boost anylonger.
for anyone considering running boost, plan ahead of time on what you're going to do, because you can blow your stock engine within couple weeks/month, so just think ahead of time or maybe don't boost in first place cause its a money pit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2fanboy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Rebuild original B18C5? I would imagine that would be cheaper than buying an entire longblock, if not better/stronger?</TD></TR></TABLE>
for anyone considering running boost, plan ahead of time on what you're going to do, because you can blow your stock engine within couple weeks/month, so just think ahead of time or maybe don't boost in first place cause its a money pit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2fanboy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Rebuild original B18C5? I would imagine that would be cheaper than buying an entire longblock, if not better/stronger?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Depends on how large your budget is, and how much power you want to have.
K-series weakness is in the rods, while the B-series weakness is in the oiling system, there are the ups and downs to each setup. There have been problems with the rods letting go after frequent trips past 8500rpms, so if you want to make serious power N/A you'll need to dig into the K block a little.
If your head is still good, I would rebuild a B18C block. For under $3k you can get a block sleeved, bored and assembled. From there you can choose FI or N/A, and make good, solid, reliable power in either form.
K-series weakness is in the rods, while the B-series weakness is in the oiling system, there are the ups and downs to each setup. There have been problems with the rods letting go after frequent trips past 8500rpms, so if you want to make serious power N/A you'll need to dig into the K block a little.
If your head is still good, I would rebuild a B18C block. For under $3k you can get a block sleeved, bored and assembled. From there you can choose FI or N/A, and make good, solid, reliable power in either form.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98cwitr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^i concur...JDM K20A all the way LSD, extra rpms, extra 20 hp and the red valve cover for starters</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep couldnt agree more
yep couldnt agree more
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxsir29 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks people i went for the k20aR
</TD></TR></TABLE>
u need my shipping address to send that to?
good choice
</TD></TR></TABLE>u need my shipping address to send that to?
good choice
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