I plan on going NA and I'm aiming for at least 210 whp and 135 wtq. I would appreciate if you posted your NA mods so I could get more idees on where I want to go.
here is my plan so far.
TODA B cams
TODA cam gears (cheaper ones will be fine)
TODA valve springs (port-flow will do)
TODA 12.1 CR pistons (ctr or endyn)
TODA oil pump gear (extra protection for road racing)
TODA lightweight flywheel (or cheaper)
Portflow Ti retainers
Knife-edged crankshaft (not neccessary)
Head worked extensively (I can get that done for free !)
.5mm oversized Ferrea valves (not neccessary)
Bored out throttle body 64.5mm plate - 70 mm opening / Port matched int (better throttle response)
K&N filter / modified air-box
fuel pressure regulator / gauge (not neccessary)
Unorthodox underdrive pulley (no thanks)
HyTech header 4/1 (or SMS/toda)
Carsound 54006 cat (stainless test-pipe)
HyTech twin loop catback (or else,custom 2.5'' stainless/high-flow muffler)
Magnacore wires (no thanks)
NGK R1 #7 plugs (no thanks)
HONDATA ecu
Mr Gasket metal head gasket (OEM)
J&S safeguard (not neccessary)
RC 440cc/min injectors (310cc)
Clutch-Masters stage 4 clutch / strongest pressure plate (overkill....)
Cs short shifter ***. (yes please)
Final drive : 4.9 (I'll keep the stocker)



[Modified by 01-1214, 6:00 PM 2/3/2002]

 

thats an expensive plan, hope you have a money tree in your backyard the setup you just listed will run over $11,000+. and thats not including labor or tunning, your probely looking at $14,000 when everything is said and done.

I am not gonna flame, and I know everyone has pipe dreams of what the want there car to be. but maybe a step back into reality will help you make decision more based on a actual setup that will help you get some nice gains.

good luck with the R, maybe im wrong however maybe you are rich and want to spend $14,000 on 40hp sounds like a good investment

 

Nice list...But $$$$$$$$!!!

 

some of the parts you listed aren't worth buying consider your getting something better.

 

umm, look at hx_guy's b20vtec build up. ~210 whp and 155 ft-lbs and no need to rev it crazy. he did it with a easy budget too.

 

Isn't he using type R cams too? I wish i had a b20 !

 

Sure, I'll be happy to. Here is a complete list of my mods:
- GS-R shift ****
- Cassette stereo
- Michelin Arctic Alpin tires (will put the RE010 back on in another month or two)
- Zymol Japon wax

 

I would add a remote controlled adjustable inner mirror and a interior fuel-tank light.

My mods are cams, camgears, valvetrain, power fc, throttle body, intake and a few secrets.. hope to see 190whp, spent 6000 Euro.

Good luck, rich man.




[Modified by Maijk190, 8:45 PM 2/3/2002]

 

mine

toda b cams
toda b cam gears
toda valvesprings
ajr ecu
ajr cai
5zigen fireball exhaust
ajr tb bore
spoon header (soon to come)
spoon thermostat
spoon plug wires
ngk plugs
type one grounding system

 

i have a integra my self and sad to say it takes wayyyyy to much to make it fast. put half that money into a nice spensioin and you will be much happer. auto cross it.

 

I won't need:
-Unorthodox pulley. Waste of money
-Magnacor wires (stock wires are very good)
-440 cc/min injectors. (310 cc/min should be enought with the spec B and 12:1 compression).

The rest of your stuff is good but you should be carefull in mixing the Toda cam shafts, Toda piston, thinner head gasket and extensive head work as you might run into valve clearance problem. There is also a few items in there that wont help you acheive your hp and torque goal (but you probably knew that )

 

Here are some suggestions
some of these mods are not necessary

TODA cam gears (Skunk2 cam gears are good, also cheaper)
TODA valve springs (Portflow inner valve springs will be fine with B's)
TODA 12.1 CR pistons (CTR or Endyn pistons)
TODA oil pump gear (not necessary)
Knife-edged crankshaft (not necessary)
.5mm oversized Ferrea valves (not necessary)
Carsound 54006 cat (94006)
Magnacore wires (Stock wires are fine)
NGK R1 #7 plugs (Stock plugs are fine)
Mr Gasket metal head gasket (Stick with OEM)
J&S safeguard (Not necessary since you will be tuning with a Hondata)
Clutch-Masters stage 4 clutch / strongest pressure plate (Highly not suggested)

 

Why don't you suggest the oil pump gear for road racing applications? Also what's the problem with the Clutchmasters clutch other than the fact it's overkill? The stock clutch won't do the job.

 

If your going to be making 210 whp, the stock FD would be better IMHO.

 

I said the oil pump gear is not necessary (street application), but for road racing, it's a precaution.
Question: What's the odd of oil pump failure???? (not trying to be sarcastic, just wondering)

The CM Stage 4 is just overkill, it's not needed

 

I don't think I have ever listed my mods before so here it goes:

Toda Racing High Power Camshaft – Spec A
Portflow Design Titanium Valve Retainers
Toda Racing Adjustable Cam Pulleys
Toda Racing High Stopper Metal Head Gasket (1.0mm)
B16B/PCT Pistons (.25mm Overbore; 1808cc)
Exedy Organic Racing Clutch Kit
J’s Racing Lightweight Flywheel (3.8 kg)
Erick’s Racing ECU Tuning
Apex-i Digital VTEC AFC
SARD Fuel Pressure Regulator

 

thanks guys ! I was not trying to be the rich kid and I'm sorry if it looked that way ! I needed the infos on a few things I wasn't sure about and you pretty much answered them.
BTW...what clutch/pressure plate should I purchase given that setup ?

 

You might wanna consider the ACT Extreme pressure plate with their street disk.

 

stock block
stock head
toda b's
toda valve springs
portflow Ti retainers
toda gen2 cam gears
toda header
godspeed test pipe
ats 4.9 final drive

185/128 at the wheels currently and I love it. Intended is 200+, so I'll let you know. Consider the final drive a mild upgrade over stock, although is is probably the most noticable upon installation.

 

Oil pump failure would be catastrophic. I always err on the side of safety.