Fuel setup:

450cc DSMs
Resistor box
Lexus GS400 fuel pump
Adj. FPR
Stock fuel rail
Also, my car is obd2 w/ obd1 ECU if that matters.

My ABS light (yes, the ABS light) is throwing Code16.

A month a half ago, my car started idling really low, it'd been doing this for approx. 3 weeks, and it died on me twice when rolling really slow to a stop. I didn't really think much about it, because I'd start it right back up, and drive off. One day, I'm meeting up with some friends, and I'm letting my car idle, and it dies (I didn't hear it die) with the key still in the 'on' position. I try to start it back up, and it doesn't start. I thought it may have been flooded, so let the car sit for a few days, but it still didn't turn over. I researched, and people with the similar symptoms replaced their dizzy, and the car started right up. I replace the dizzy, car started right up... but with a CEL. The car ran SUPER rich, and all I did was replace the dizzy. A tech at the shop I take my car to thought it may be the first o2 sensor, so I replaced it, but to no avail. We then thought an injector may have fouled out, and was just sitting wide open... I replace all injectors with new ones, nothing. We then tried the resistor box thinking maybe it got wet or something, but that didn't work either. We're almost convinced the resistor box I bought was bad, so I'm going to buy yet another part in hopes this fixes my problem.

Could it be a bad distributor?

Has anyone had anything similar happen to them or know what a possible reason for my car throwing a CEL would be?

Any help would be appreciated and compensated for.

 

I had a similar problem, was the dizzy. Might be a stupid question but did you reset the ecu after you changed the dizzy?

 

I can't tell you how many times my ECU has been reset.

Would I be having this problem if I bought an OBD1 dizzy and put it on my OBD2 car?

Edit: This is the distributor I bought. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...3AIID

 

what conversion harness are you running? and what kind of tuning on what system?

 

hmm dunno what else to tell you. I used an obd2 dizzy on my obd1 conversion though and it worked fine.

 

I'm running Uberdata with a OBD2->OBD1 conv. harness and a p06 ECU. I bought it off of H-T, it looks kind of ratty, but worked like it was supposed to. Never had a problem with it.

 

Whats your TPS voltage closed and opened ?

 

TPS voltage?

 

i kinda see where you are goin with this pk speed, but why would that make his abs light flash? and how do you pull your code from your abs light.... through the jump that would normally make you check engine light flash?

 

My ABS light flashes instead of the CEL because I have an OBD1 ECU in my OBD2 car.

 

wasnt sure, im more of an aem guy, no blue boxes, no conversion harnesses, no soldering...... just plug and tune and then play.

 

I've asked around. The possibilty of using an obd1 distributor and causing it to throw a CEL is not likely.

Replaced the injectors, replaced the resistor box, replaced first o2 sensor, and about to replace the resistor box yet again... I'm running out of options.

 

Bad conversion harness perhaps?

 

thats what i was originally getting at

 

It just doesn't make much sense that I got a solid CEL after replacing the distributor.

$100 distributor
$35 resistor box
$80 o2 sensor
$35 resistor box

All of this just to have nothing accomplished.

I don't know if I want to invest another $75 for another conversion harness. I'd shoot myself if I spent more money to have nothing fixed.

 

what code beside the code 16 are you getting?

i would also check the plugs, cap, rotor.

have you performed a compression test? , leak down?

if you check your timing after installing the new dizzy?

it could be anything. what else is happening? does your car start with half throttle?

need more information. does it idle now? or does it idle rough?

 

It idles at about 2,000RPMs because the engine is cold, it's always done this. After it warms up, it would idle at 750.

Did a compression test, 170s across the board.

We adjusted the timing after the distributor install.

And yes, it idles super rough, because the injectors are sitting wide open dumping fuel. There's also small amounts of gas in my oil.

 

its the harness

 

Have you had similar problems? Why are you certain it's the harness? The harness was sloppy when I bought it. I plugged it in, and it didn't start my car. I had to have the fuel pump pin soldered in the harness because it my fuel pump would never start. After I soldered the pin in, the car started right up. I don't want to come across the wrong way, so please don't get offended, but do you think a harness could just go bad? Would it cause a CEL?

I've never changed the fuel filter, and someone else suggested it might be the main relay.

 

Any good recommendations for harnesses?

 

I just realized, I removed the OBD1 ECU and harness and connected the OBD2 ECU back in, reset the ECU, and it still threw the code, so it wouldn't be my harness.

I'm going to try to remove the 450s, install stock ones, and remove the resistor pack altogether and see if this solves my problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Benjithx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its the harness</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with this.

Your ABS light should not be flashing your ECU codes either.

And now you say the harness was 'sloppy', so who knows. The fact that you had to solder the fuel pump control wire in the harness could be saying something about some of the other wires too.

Where did the conversion harness come from?

 

The ECU does not throw the ABS light. There is no wire from the ECU to the ABS light.

The ECU is probably not tuned properly for the larger injectors that is why it is rich.

I don't have the book to look at but there is a separate list of codes for ABS. Check all your ABS sensors, make sure all the sensors are clean of dirt. Are you running ABS axles in the front? Make sure the wires going to the ABS sensors are not frayed.

The ABS light is not coming on because of anything with the injectors or distributor, so don't take the injectors out.

 

I figured the ABS light was flashing because I have an OBD1 ECU in the car. I've never had a problem with the ECU or harness before (except when I had to re-pin the fuel pump control).

The conversion harness came from a member of H-T.

The car was tuned for the 450cc injectors.

I'm not questioning you guys' knowledge on this, I'm just curious as to why a conversion harness would throw a code.

Also, I'll try researching why my ABS light is flashing. I get one-one second ABS light, then 6 quick flashes, and then rinse and repeat. I got the code from putting in the pin and that's when it read it. Well, the ABS light only flashed when the pin was in, so this lead me to believe the ABS light was flashing instead fo the CEL.

Edit: I've also tried putting the stock ECU back in the car without the conversion harness, and it threw the same code. I've reset the ECU before and after install the stock ECU. With the OBD1 ECU w/ conversion harness and the OBD2 ECU, the car acted the same both times.




Modified by 19sec beast at 8:58 AM 5/4/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 19sec beast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My ABS light flashes instead of the CEL because I have an OBD1 ECU in my OBD2 car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how would this work if you didnt have abs? i agree it probably is wiring of some sort

edit: how many people have been using that fuel pump in hondas?