I'm a bit confused on my Koni / GC setup. I'm running the ERS springs with the GC's. The shock has more travel than the spring. Wouldn't this cause the spring to "float" when the shock rebounds under high load? It just seems to me that the spring should be attached to the perch somehow, to avoid getting cocked sideways. Am I wrong?

 

you are correct that the spring will sometime get loose in there. Typically in the rear inside wheel of the car, especially when you are 3-wheeling. Some people use a tender spring to accomodate that, I also suppose you could setup a droop limiting strap (like the off roaders do), others don't worry about it (me).

 

your swaybars and shocks will keep the spring seated under 99% of your driving activities. i am another one that doesn't worry about.

nate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SJR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Some people use a tender spring to accomodate that
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Itd be a Helper spring, a tender will have a rate and it will modify the main springrate until fully compressed. A Helper will be fully compressed once the car is on the ground, but keep the spring seated when suspensions at full droop.

Ground Control sells them.

 

The tender/helper springs I've seen cost twice as much as the regular springs! I've seen big zip ties on the springs of off road vehicles. Even the high dollar ones. That might be worth a shot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The tender/helper springs I've seen cost twice as much as the regular springs! I've seen big zip ties on the springs of off road vehicles. Even the high dollar ones. That might be worth a shot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was thinking about drilling a few small holes in the top hat and using safety wire. I'm not going to worry about it though if it doesn't cause any problems.

 

we sell spacers to join two springs. you don`t need zipties. LOL

Helpers are much cheaper than tenders or tender progressives.

 

If you have sway bars, then you don't have anything to worry about. When you've got your car on a lift/jack, just double check that your springs seat properly into the upper mounts when you lower it back down (not a problem with GC upper mounts).

The kit for the "helper springs & locators", directly from GC, is $200 (that's what it was a year ago anyways)...

 

hypercoil lists some helper springs that are surprisingly rather cheap at $19.95 each. of course youll need some mating collars to keep them together, but $50 for a pair or $100 for 4 doesnt sound so bad really.

 

after some on mentioned zip ties i remeber some holes in the GC race top mount looked back at some pictures and yep there they are, seems like they might have been put there for that reason, im gona ask jay and see if thats what they are for

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hypercoil lists some helper springs that are surprisingly rather cheap at $19.95 each. of course youll need some mating collars to keep them together, but $50 for a pair or $100 for 4 doesnt sound so bad really.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The mating connectors are another $20 each @ eibach...

 

Not under hard braking with tons of rebound damping

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">after some on mentioned zip ties i remeber some holes in the GC race top mount looked back at some pictures and yep there they are, seems like they might have been put there for that reason, im gona ask jay and see if thats what they are for</TD></TR></TABLE>

They are for use with safety wires. We used one on the NSX and my friend SpecMiata

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnny Mac &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not under hard braking with tons of rebound damping</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you trying to say that suspension setup you mentioned will actually lift the two rear tires off the ground? That sounds a little rediculous to me...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The mating connectors are another $20 each @ eibach...</TD></TR></TABLE>

What are they made of? I could whip some up out of 6061 fairly quickly...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Are you trying to say that suspension setup you mentioned will actually lift the two rear tires off the ground? That sounds a little rediculous to me...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not to start a war or anything but there was an ITR owner who was lifting the rear inside wheel on the roadcourse. He posted up pics showing how once the rear came down it wasnt setteling properly and was causing extreme wear damage to the lower perch on the GCs.

This was the only reason I was personally looking into getting some helpers, though I'd only be using them on the rears, and like others have said using the GC shock extension travel mounts helps to eliminate this problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KOALA YUMMIES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not to start a war or anything but there was an ITR owner who was lifting the rear inside wheel on the roadcourse. He posted up pics showing how once the rear came down it wasnt setteling properly and was causing extreme wear damage to the lower perch on the GCs.

This was the only reason I was personally looking into getting some helpers, though I'd only be using them on the rears, and like others have said using the GC shock extension travel mounts helps to eliminate this problem. </TD></TR></TABLE>

This is with the shock fully extended. I believe that 94eg was saying that it would not lift the wheel using shock rebound dampening alone (with the koni sports).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KOALA YUMMIES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not to start a war or anything but there was an ITR owner who was lifting the rear inside wheel on the roadcourse. He posted up pics showing how once the rear came down it wasnt setteling properly and was causing extreme wear damage to the lower perch on the GCs.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I completely under stand lifting the inside tire on a turn. In that case a swaybar would still keep the spring seated by lifting the inside tire off the ground. But Johnny Mac was saying that under braking, all weight would transfer off the rear springs & allow them to come loose in the perch. I honestly don't believe this is possible, otherwise we would be seeing people with safteywired rear springs doing nose wheelies at the racetrack when they hit the brakes...

 

I found the thread I was reading. The spring was getting stuck on the upper OE mounts as the rear inside lifed.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1031879

And you can see the wear on the perch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnny Mac &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not under hard braking with tons of rebound damping</TD></TR></TABLE>

especially with tons of rebound. with 550lb springs it takes several SECONDS before the shock droops enough to unseat the spring when i jack the car up from the rear center jack point. i daily drove a setup that was 700/750. at full droop the springs had 3" or more of free play. they never once came unseated. even when the car was airborne driving through the streets of Quincy.

those pics of the ITR setup looks like he was using a 2.5" ID spring on a 2.25" OD sleeve. "um, duh!" comes to mind.

nate