Type of Oil
honestly, any of these brands of oil are great products. just pick one you feel good about. more importantly, just make sure you change every 3k and your motor will be in tiptop shape. and dont buy fram filters. go with the s2000 oe filter, or k&n. they cost $8 and $10, respectively
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM4DRACCORD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Or Just Buy Honda Oil And Honda Oil Filters. It's Better For Your Car Too.
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That's not necessarily true...For the last two years, I've put nothing but Mobil 1 Synthetic in my vehicle, which has high mileage, and I noticed the temp gauge isn't running as hot as it used to and get better MPG.
</TD></TR></TABLE>That's not necessarily true...For the last two years, I've put nothing but Mobil 1 Synthetic in my vehicle, which has high mileage, and I noticed the temp gauge isn't running as hot as it used to and get better MPG.
If you want the skinny on oil and filters go to http://www.bobistheoilguy.com . It's very tech-heavy, but good if you can wade through the techno-speak....
Fram filters do, indeed, suck. Purolator Pure 1, K&N are good filters.
Fram filters do, indeed, suck. Purolator Pure 1, K&N are good filters.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigt61 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is wrong with FRAM filters? I run Mobil1 10W30 synthetic and a fram filter, and dont have problems. Is there something I should know about?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Fram filter has good multipass flow rate.
http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/filters.shtml
Fram filter has good multipass flow rate.
http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/filters.shtml
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pnoble »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does anyone know why the break-in section of the owners manual for the '05 (at least) Accord states "do not change the oil before the recommendation of 10,000 miles?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Perhaps due to some tests they did where it wasn't broken in and the engine got hosed. I actually would follow that suggestion for the break-in period just to be safe, because if you don't and the engine does blow, likely that will void your warranty. Afterwards, drop the pan and put in Mobil 1 Synthetic, new filter, and you are set....
Perhaps due to some tests they did where it wasn't broken in and the engine got hosed. I actually would follow that suggestion for the break-in period just to be safe, because if you don't and the engine does blow, likely that will void your warranty. Afterwards, drop the pan and put in Mobil 1 Synthetic, new filter, and you are set....
there are additives that honda puts in the engine at the factory which helps to ensure proper piston ring sealing. unless youve done a lot of research on this matter, just follow what the manual says and wait AT LEAST 5k before you change. the decreased tolerances and refined manufacturing techniques that are employed these days help to minimize the amount of shavings that are releasing during break-in. besides that, the engines are already run (semi-broke in) at the factory so that the consumer doesnt have to worry about changing the oil after the first 10 miles.
so yea.. just drive your car, dont worry about oil until at least 5k.
so yea.. just drive your car, dont worry about oil until at least 5k.
you know castrol syntec isn't a real synthetic oil correct?
they take dino juice and refine it a little more but it still isn't as good as a true synthetic like mobil 1 , redline, amsoil and such
if your going to use a synthetic might as well use a real synthetic oil that uses a real synthetic base rather then just the plain dino oil.
they take dino juice and refine it a little more but it still isn't as good as a true synthetic like mobil 1 , redline, amsoil and such
if your going to use a synthetic might as well use a real synthetic oil that uses a real synthetic base rather then just the plain dino oil.
Mobil makes Honda's oil ... but that does not mean it's Mobil 1. Probably just their cheap "Drive Clean."
Most Castrol Syntec is 'fake synthetic' ... Group III mineral oil. It's pretty good (there are no 'bad' API-approved oils) but it is not 'real' synthetic ... and not worth $5+ per quart.
German Castrol Syntec 0W-30 (hard to find these days) is a real synthetic.
Most Castrol Syntec is 'fake synthetic' ... Group III mineral oil. It's pretty good (there are no 'bad' API-approved oils) but it is not 'real' synthetic ... and not worth $5+ per quart.
German Castrol Syntec 0W-30 (hard to find these days) is a real synthetic.


