I finally got the caliper compressed, but how in the hell do I get the new pads on so the rotor will fit? Here's where I'm at...

http://www.mustangmods.com/data/34/brakes.jpg

The inside pad is installed. If I install the outside pad, there's no place for the rotor to go. I'm at a loss...I've done brakes on many cars and at this point the caliper bracket free floats so you can get it where it needs to be in order for caliper to fit back on the rotor. I can't get anything to budge though. What am I missing?

I've got to get this damn thing back together tonight...

Thanks in advance...

 

not sure on the 92, but I believe the rear caliper is retracted by screwing it back in not pressing it. If that is the case their should be little notches to grab it with needlenose pliers. There again not familiar with your car but it looks like you took off the mounting bracket bolts instead of the slider pins, shouldn't matter but just so you know. If you mess with the pins, make sure you use HIGH TEMP grease so it doesn't lock up.

 

Are you talking about the caliper piston screwing in, or something else? I already screwed the piston all the way in. I haven't touched the slider pins yet. I've never had to on other brakes that I've done. If that's the trick, then that's what I'm missing...

 

yeah i really can't tell from this angle, but it looks like that bracket might be in the way and you just need to slide the caliper itself to the side on the pins. There should be one or two bolts that you take off on the pins (got rubber boots around them) and then the caliper should swing free. You instead took off the whole mounting bracket that caliper and all rides on.

 

That's correct. I didn't touch the 2 bolts with the rubber boots on them. I've never had to on any other brake pad job I've done. I guess these are different...

Thanks!

 

hank you got to make sure that first caliper is all the way in and second you have to aligh the caliper notches to the pad dimple,,if you look at the piston aligh the notches in a 90 degree angle if you dont align notches to pad nipple the pad will seat crooked in caliper thus will wear uneven ,,,best way to know if you got it aligned is when you bolt everything up wheel should spin free

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hankd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's correct. I didn't touch the 2 bolts with the rubber boots on them. I've never had to on any other brake pad job I've done. I guess these are different...

Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think there's necessarily anything wrong with doing it that way, and its always a good idea to squeeze more grease inside the boot. Yeah just make sure the pads are seated properly and caliper is slid out of the way.

 

Thanks guys...so if I break these 2 bolts loose...

http://www.mustangmods.com/data/34/brakes2ps.jpg

the caliper should "float" and allow me to have the room I need to get everything back together?

I gave up on it last night...driving the wife's car today...

 

Alright, the caliper slides back and forth on those two pins that way it can apply even pressure on both sides as the pads wear. From the most recent picture if you just grab the caliper and pull it towards you it should compress those little boots and give you more room. It looks like you have 1/2 inch or so of space on the inner pad but nothing for the outer. As is, just pull on the caliper until the inner pad is touching the rotor. The pins may be seized up (grease dried up) but they're supposed to move freely of the mounting bracket.

Is this making any sense to you?

 

Perfect sense...and it's exactly why I was dumb-founded by this last night. The pins must be seized up because I couldn't get the boots to compress even when cranking on it with a C-clamp!! I was thinking that there was something different about these brakes that I didn't know about...

I'll try it again tonight...

 

Just out of curiosity did your old pads wear down evenly, because if not that almost guarantees the pins are locked up.

In that case you might be looking at getting a new set (probably around $20). The most important thing is make sure you use high temp grease, otherwise you'll be doing it all over again. They sell little packets of grease for like $1 a piece, you should see them sitting on the counter.

 

Damnit...good point. They did wear unevenly. That makes sense...I was trying to figure out how the brakes could've worked correctly if the pins are frozen. One pad (outside) was nothing and the inside pad was to the squealer...

Probably something I'll have to get at a dealership?? Or will Autozone carry them?

 

I gave up for the night...those pins aren't budging. I got the old pad on and it'll have to get me to the weekend...

Thanks for the help man!

 

Yeah autozone should have the pins, might double check that they have them in stock though. Hmm, so they won't come loose...and you said you even tried compressing it with a C clamp!

Since I don't have that year I'd say do some detective work by peeling back the rubber boots. Peel those boots back and spray some good quality brake cleaner (CRC is the best, its a red can) all around. If you can you particularly want to try to get it in between the pin and the bolt.

You know, after looking at the parts online I'm not completely familiar with this. They're showing cotter pins and two piece bolts, not the regular bolt/pin setup that I'm used to. You might want to try giving a dealership a call, the guys in the shop have helped me out in a couple of jams. Trying spraying everything down like I said, but this is a little odd.

 

Yep, I even put a c-clamp on each and tried cranking on them both. Tapped on them with a hammer to try to break junk loose. I'll call around this week and see what I can find out...

I need to take it to a shop and have the front rotors turned on the car. Maybe I'll just have them fix the back brakes while they've got it on the lift...

#21 and 37 are the pins. Where is the cotter pin that you're referring to?



Thanks,
Hank

 

yeah, after looking at the diagram I'm really not sure how that blasted thing slides back and forth. I don't know why more people aren't helping out in here either. Call a dealorship that's my suggestion.