I just changed my brake fluid today, by myself, and its the first time Ive ever done it. Im not sure I did it right, just kinda used common sense. But my pedal now feels pretty soft and doesnt bite hard until pushed atleast halfway in. When I first touch the brake, there is an initial bite, then it seems to soften a bit and I need to press harder for it to bite again. It doesnt sink to the floor, and pushes back about the same as before.

I used a bleeder pump to remove the old fluid, and a little brake pumping to make sure it was all out, starting at the right rear. Once old fluid stopped coming from the right rear, I put ATE blue in the reservoir and pumped the brake a few times, and used the bleeder pump until ATE was coming from the bleeder screw. Once it was coming out with no air bubbles, I closed the screw. I made sure no air was getting into the reservoir and it was always atleast half full. I then did basically the same thing for the left rear, then right front, and finally left front. Then capped off the reservoir at MAX level.

Im wondering if maybe I should have pumped the brake a few times at some point to build up pressure before I was done? Its not biting nearly as hard or as quickly as it was before. I barely had to touch the brakes before and got a nice solid bite. Now it doesnt seem to bite that hard until pushing the pedal atleast halfway in.

 

I am a brake fluid noob, but it sounds to me like there is still a little air in the lines. It took me a few cycles to get it all out.

 

i've heard that the brakes will feel mushy or soft, but i have never experienced it when i have bled my brakes. you can wait a couple days to see if the brakes stiffen up, but if not, i sugggest you re-bleed.

 

Ya should have called me noobie

rebleed with second person pumping your peddle

 

ok if I pump the pedal while bleeding...do I close the screw with the pedal up or down?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok if I pump the pedal while bleeding...do I close the screw with the pedal up or down?</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL! I don't believe you just asked that. DOWN!

 

I have always done it with the pedal depressed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zygspeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

LOL! I don't believe you just asked that. DOWN!</TD></TR></TABLE>

maybe thats part of the problem then. ill try it again when I have some extra feet. its my first time, be easy on me

 

step by step.

One person in the car. (A)

One person on the brakes. (B)

B says to A, "Down" A pushes pedal to floor. As A pushes down, B opens the bleed valve.

B tightens after a couple of seconds, the says "up" A lets off of the brakes.

Repeat a good few times each corner.

Make sure you keep an eye on the fluid level.

Make sure you put a rag over the bleed valve, forgot last time and got shot by brake fluid, not fun.

 

YUP, what ^ he said.

It's sort of hard to do alone, and I've heard that you shouldn't press the pedal to its extreme downwart position in that it may damage some of the seals in the master cylinder or something (since there may be some type of buildup that far past the normal range of motion).

Another thing I've heard or read is that im pay help to bleed the brakes with the engine running, since its a vacuum assisted system.

Lastly, the sequence is something like ... press brake pedal while opening bleeder valve, close bleeder valve at or before the brake pedal reaches the bottom of its motion, with the bleeder valve closed release brake pedal ... repeat a few times on each corner as necessary. Then maybe do one last go-round at each of the corners to check.

Good luck, I'll be doing pads, lines and fluid in another week or two on my 97. Not looking forward to opening up lines and bleeders that may not have been opened up ot cracked open for perhaps several years.

 

Don't forget to put something like a piece of 2x4 wood cut small enough to fit between the brake pedal and floor board to protect the seals in the MC. Or just don't push all the way to the floor, hold off just before it would stop.

But otherwise you've got some good advice above.

 

just to reiterate, only open and close the bleeder valve as you are depressing the brake pedal.

 

ok all, thanks for the advice.

also, I pushed the pedal as far as it would go. hope I didnt fuxor anything up

 

you know that even though you guys say not to press the pedal all the way down, the service manual from honda (at least mine) says to open bleeder, push pedal all the way down, close bleeder, let pedal come up. repeat as necessary. that whole seal deal is only if you don't change your fluid regularly ie every 30k or less

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nishant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> that whole seal deal is only if you don't change your fluid regularly ie every 30k or less</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's always good to be safe.

FYI, I've chanaged my fluid every time before I've tracked, and at maximum 10,000 mile intervals. And have seen some sludge at times on 2 seperate occasions. I also have a spare MC.

We all know Murphy's law, and who want's Murphy fuggin with ya when you're tryin to stop from 135mph.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GreyTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's always good to be safe.

FYI, I've chanaged my fluid every time before I've tracked, and at maximum 10,000 mile intervals. And have seen some sludge at times on 2 seperate occasions. I also have a spare MC.

We all know Murphy's law, and who want's Murphy fuggin with ya when you're tryin to stop from 135mph.</TD></TR></TABLE>

very true. i seem to change my fluid before race season and then after every other hpde weekend

 

Many people trust and use the one man bleeders (vacuum pump deal) and SpeedBleeders. I only trust the 2 person method recommended by everyone above. Ryan, ask Rob to come over and bleed (MANY cycles thru) the crap out of your system.

 

well whatever method I used worked pretty good...but not as perfect as I want it. Its not like dangerous or anything...but I think it could get a little iffy on the track when it comes to braking into a corner. might be more likely to upset the balance of the car without nice even pedal pressure.

Rob, im gonna bring bleeder stuff to the meet so we can fix my brakes and maybe diagnose the funny noises it makes lol

 

Its a 2 man job to get it done properly.

 

Ryan, me and you should roll to BK together some time this week and do all our prep

 

OH great, Now I have two caRs to prep

Anyone else need mechanical help?

 

*raises hand*

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone else need CW detailing help?</TD></TR></TABLE>

:raises hand:

 

lol

We're wet sanding my bitch too

 

Where's .RJ to come tell us to gravity bleed all by ourselves?



Anyhow-- yeah lots of good advice posted so far.

It should be added, I try NEVER to get any air in my system. If I suck a little air into the system through the master cylinder, my pedal feels like crap too, I think some air gets trapped up in the ABS system.

Also, yeah, tighten the screw while the brake pedal is depressed, to avoid sucking a little air back into the calipers.