I want to upgrade the brakes on my 99 hatch but, I don't want to do the rear disc conversion yet because I've heard that you can upgrade the front to be just as good. Here is a little list of stuff I'm gonna order, let me know if you think I should add anything.

Brembo Blank Rotors
Hawk HP+ Brake Pads
Goodridge SS Brake Lines
Adjust Rear Drums

Are the EX calipers bigger and will they bolt up?

thanks

 

looks like a good set up. i like oem pads. i know in 92-95 the ex rotors are biger than the rest.

 

keep in mind that they make slotted and drilled rotors too that could be found for a reasonable price...although Brembo blanks are good rotors too...

 

i wouldnt run slotted rotors on a daily driven car it will eat up your probably pricey pads.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by e jay one &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wouldnt run slotted rotors on a daily driven car it will eat up your probably pricey pads.</TD></TR></TABLE>

care to explain how?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicboisi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

care to explain how?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Care to explain how slotted and drilled rotors will help his braking ability?

 

cooler rotor means quicker stop

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ghettochild &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cooler rotor means quicker stop</TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe when you are on the brakes hard for a long period of time, say at the track.... But just driving around town or in traffic, they will just eat up the pads. The rotors won't have a chance to get hot enough to make any difference. The sharp edges on the cuts in the rotors are what cut up the pads. Oh and cross drilled and slotted rotors have a lot better chance of cracking. That's always a good thing.

I like your plan right now. I have the exact same thing up front, but I have rear discs. Along with a 1" ITR MC/BB and a 40/40 prop valve. I can stop on a needle point.


And yes, the EX rotors are bigger than the other models (on the coupes and hatches, I'm not sure about the sedans). As far as them bolting right up, I'm not sure. For some reason I want to say no, but I could be wrong on that. I THINK the answer to that is in the thread in my sig.

 

bump...i had the same question...what year civic came with bigger brakes and rotors tehn my 96 civic hb dx?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC4life 96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe when you are on the brakes hard for a long period of time, say at the track.... But just driving around town or in traffic, they will just eat up the pads. The rotors won't have a chance to get hot enough to make any difference. The sharp edges on the cuts in the rotors are what cut up the pads. Oh and cross drilled and slotted rotors have a lot better chance of cracking. That's always a good thing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm with him ^^^^^^^.

 

dont waste your money on drills or slots. just stick with the brembo blanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC4life 96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Maybe when you are on the brakes hard for a long period of time, say at the track.... But just driving around town or in traffic, they will just eat up the pads. The rotors won't have a chance to get hot enough to make any difference. The sharp edges on the cuts in the rotors are what cut up the pads. Oh and cross drilled and slotted rotors have a lot better chance of cracking. That's always a good thing.

I like your plan right now. I have the exact same thing up front, but I have rear discs. Along with a 1" ITR MC/BB and a 40/40 prop valve. I can stop on a needle point.


And yes, the EX rotors are bigger than the other models (on the coupes and hatches, I'm not sure about the sedans). As far as them bolting right up, I'm not sure. For some reason I want to say no, but I could be wrong on that. I THINK the answer to that is in the thread in my sig.</TD></TR></TABLE>

and how do you suppose rotors get warped? not hot enough? you must know what ur talking about Ever pulled off a rotor right after driving say 10-20 mins? Freakin-a hot man...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicboisi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

and how do you suppose rotors get warped? not hot enough? you must know what ur talking about Ever pulled off a rotor right after driving say 10-20 mins? Freakin-a hot man...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Rotors get warped because people ride them all day. I had a customer come over the other day after driving about a hour from his house and i had to change his rotors, they werent "freakin-a hot". Rotors cool down pretty fast, thats how they warp as well.

When you ride your brakes and get them hot then get off the pads the cold will warp them.

 

What I've learned is that this is a very controversial topic.......... whenever this subject comes up everyone frickin argues like it's a matter of life or death or something.

I'm sticking with my brembo blanks, I feel that they are superior to slotted and cross drilled but that is just my opinion. I have heard a lot about cross drilled rotors cracking when put under heavy pressure. But some people haven't had problems in years with them so thats cool too.

Also I a lot of places won't turn a cross drilled and slotted rotor because it's very likely that when the "bit" on the machine comes to the slot or drilled hole it will move across the empty area and chip on the other side (chip the machine bit that is).

It is interesting hearing everyones opinions though.............

 

Yes, the EX front brakes are a direct bolt on. Front DX and LX discs are 9.5 inches and the EX ones are 10.2 inches. It is a very noticable upgrade. Currently I am running the EX front setup with Brembo X-drilled and Nissin pads. STELLAR setup and you cna do it of rwell under 500 bux. I would reccomend it to anyone.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ghettochild &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cooler rotor means quicker stop</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, actually a hotter brake system means quicker stops (to a point). And slotting/drilling rotors is not meant to cool the system, it is meant to evacuate gasses created as the pads drag on the rotors. On a RACE CAR, this is important because the quick on/off movement of the brakes builds gasses that can be trapped between the pads and rotors that can cause a type of brake fade since the gasses will compress and keep the pad from contacting the rotor. Brake systems convert the kinetic energy of a car into heat energy, so mis-matching parts that were not designed to work together will only hurt performance. Slotted/drilled rotors were not designed to work with floating calipers, and i'm not saying they will hurt your performance, but Brembo blanks are probably best for a stock-type brake system. And they're more economical since they can be turned.

QE B96v6