All motor K question. WIth regards to the k24/k20 setup
A guy i know posted this on another forum and i dont think this is correct let me know.
the K24 with a bore and stroke of 87x99 makes the rod ratio Ridiculous! You would have to destroke the engine to a 2.2 just so you could rev high enough to make the power, with that setup your maxed out at maybe MAYBE 8000 rpm and the k24a2(the engine you would most likely pick up for this swap since it has the same head as the k20a2 (the type s)) only has 25 degrees of tuning capability vs the k20a2 with 50 degrees.
I was under the impression that the k24 bottom end was a bolt on app with out the b20 or ls frankenstein stroke issues.
the K24 with a bore and stroke of 87x99 makes the rod ratio Ridiculous! You would have to destroke the engine to a 2.2 just so you could rev high enough to make the power, with that setup your maxed out at maybe MAYBE 8000 rpm and the k24a2(the engine you would most likely pick up for this swap since it has the same head as the k20a2 (the type s)) only has 25 degrees of tuning capability vs the k20a2 with 50 degrees.
I was under the impression that the k24 bottom end was a bolt on app with out the b20 or ls frankenstein stroke issues.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HavokB18 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A guy i know posted this on another forum and i dont think this is correct let me know.
the K24 with a bore and stroke of 87x99 makes the rod ratio Ridiculous! You would have to destroke the engine to a 2.2 just so you could rev high enough to make the power, with that setup your maxed out at maybe MAYBE 8000 rpm and the k24a2(the engine you would most likely pick up for this swap since it has the same head as the k20a2 (the type s)) only has 25 degrees of tuning capability vs the k20a2 with 50 degrees.
I was under the impression that the k24 bottom end was a bolt on app with out the b20 or ls frankenstein stroke issues.</TD></TR></TABLE> If you destroke it to 2.2 you should be able to rev it higher since the k24a2 as it sits right now can take a trip to 8000rpms. BUT what i would like to know is...why are you concerned with reving a k24 block when its obvioulsy not meant to be revved due to the bad r/s ratio and most importantly high piston speeds?
the K24 with a bore and stroke of 87x99 makes the rod ratio Ridiculous! You would have to destroke the engine to a 2.2 just so you could rev high enough to make the power, with that setup your maxed out at maybe MAYBE 8000 rpm and the k24a2(the engine you would most likely pick up for this swap since it has the same head as the k20a2 (the type s)) only has 25 degrees of tuning capability vs the k20a2 with 50 degrees.
I was under the impression that the k24 bottom end was a bolt on app with out the b20 or ls frankenstein stroke issues.</TD></TR></TABLE> If you destroke it to 2.2 you should be able to rev it higher since the k24a2 as it sits right now can take a trip to 8000rpms. BUT what i would like to know is...why are you concerned with reving a k24 block when its obvioulsy not meant to be revved due to the bad r/s ratio and most importantly high piston speeds?
put some aftermarket pistons and rods and rev the guts out of it-- thats what i am doing, you dont have to rev to 11k to make power with this motor, its seems like this k24 only reving to 8k stock is making tons of people afraid to use these motors-- time will tell i guess
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SUPERNATURAL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you are going to go through all the trouble of destroking, just sleeve a k2oa2 and you get your 2.2</TD></TR></TABLE>That only takes care of the displacement issue...you still have to worry about the rod journals since they are smaller than a b-series and tend to be the weak point in a K20 block. Plus stroking a k20 widen the rod journals and improving your R/S ratio would be a nice improvement rather than stock.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drchulo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That only takes care of the displacement issue...you still have to worry about the rod journals since they are smaller than a b-series and tend to be the weak point in a K20 block. Plus stroking a k20 widen the rod journals and improving your R/S ratio would be a nice improvement rather than stock. </TD></TR></TABLE>
smaller rod journals does not necessarily mean that it will be the definite breaking point.....ive used d series bearings on some very high revving applications and they have performed very well
smaller rod journals does not necessarily mean that it will be the definite breaking point.....ive used d series bearings on some very high revving applications and they have performed very well
thats my homies dyno.........i was there that day they were tuning thck20eg's hatch. man that motor screams when vtec hits....... he got out to test n tune last saturday and i think he put down a 13.6 at 109. i can't remember the mph but i know he was spinning his 24.5 slicks. wasn't able to put down traction for ****.
i dynoed that car yesterday and overlayed its graph over our shops k20aR. the results were pretty shocking. between a k24 stock bottom end vs a k20aR bottom end everything else near same (head, header, ect) for drag racing, I vote k24!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rochesterricer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, you guys need to understand that a motor doesn't have to rev high to make power.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly. If people are so afraid to rev these things so high because of the low r/s ratio, then don't. The massive stroke makes the things torque monsters, and they make awesome power w/out having to rev super high.
However, I have heard that k-series rods are shitty and maybe that worries people about high revving, im not sure
Exactly. If people are so afraid to rev these things so high because of the low r/s ratio, then don't. The massive stroke makes the things torque monsters, and they make awesome power w/out having to rev super high.
However, I have heard that k-series rods are shitty and maybe that worries people about high revving, im not sure
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SEFIxCivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dynoed that car yesterday and overlayed its graph over our shops k20aR. the results were pretty shocking. between a k24 stock bottom end vs a k20aR bottom end everything else near same (head, header, ect) for drag racing, I vote k24!</TD></TR></TABLE>
why?
I have a K24a2 as well but I am just interested as to why you would say this? just because of the torque? and why just for drag, is that all that you really concentrate on? I am building my car for the road coarse thats why I am asking...
why?
I have a K24a2 as well but I am just interested as to why you would say this? just because of the torque? and why just for drag, is that all that you really concentrate on? I am building my car for the road coarse thats why I am asking...
i'd be concerned with the longevity of the engine k24 if it were road raced, which is our companies primary focus.
bad rod to stroke ratios lead to increased cylinder wear, and there's also the possibility of rod failure during extended high rpm use. there isn't enough information available on the k24 modded for road race type use to give a definitive answer.
besides... unless you're in the world challenge or something... you probably won't need every last hp out there, you could just work on your driver skill instead.
bad rod to stroke ratios lead to increased cylinder wear, and there's also the possibility of rod failure during extended high rpm use. there isn't enough information available on the k24 modded for road race type use to give a definitive answer.
besides... unless you're in the world challenge or something... you probably won't need every last hp out there, you could just work on your driver skill instead.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SEFIxCivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dynoed that car yesterday and overlayed its graph over our shops k20aR. the results were pretty shocking. between a k24 stock bottom end vs a k20aR bottom end everything else near same (head, header, ect) for drag racing, I vote k24!</TD></TR></TABLE>
was it the same car? how'd it do?
was it the same car? how'd it do?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SEFIxCivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'd be concerned with the longevity of the engine k24 if it were road raced, which is our companies primary focus.
bad rod to stroke ratios lead to increased cylinder wear, and there's also the possibility of rod failure during extended high rpm use. there isn't enough information available on the k24 modded for road race type use to give a definitive answer.
besides... unless you're in the world challenge or something... you probably won't need every last hp out there, you could just work on your driver skill instead.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yah it definetly doesn't have the best Rod/Stroke ratio but if kept under 7500 it should be fine right? I know motors don't last forever (I blew up my almost stock single cam at 80k) especially if you are racing it, but I would not think it would be much worse than any other motor...
The Rod journals are kinda week on all the K series but the Rods on the K24a2 are better than all of the other K24's.
Anything you guys would do or watch out for while prepping or racing the 2.4 liter?
bad rod to stroke ratios lead to increased cylinder wear, and there's also the possibility of rod failure during extended high rpm use. there isn't enough information available on the k24 modded for road race type use to give a definitive answer.
besides... unless you're in the world challenge or something... you probably won't need every last hp out there, you could just work on your driver skill instead.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yah it definetly doesn't have the best Rod/Stroke ratio but if kept under 7500 it should be fine right? I know motors don't last forever (I blew up my almost stock single cam at 80k) especially if you are racing it, but I would not think it would be much worse than any other motor...
The Rod journals are kinda week on all the K series but the Rods on the K24a2 are better than all of the other K24's.
Anything you guys would do or watch out for while prepping or racing the 2.4 liter?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rochesterricer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, you guys need to understand that a motor doesn't have to rev high to make power.</TD></TR></TABLE>Like i said, if the motor does not need to be revved, then dont do it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SEFIxCivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we aren't running any k24's. we run k20aR's. that k24 was a customers car. i am really impressed with its powerband.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I will be running the K24a2 in my car so i am just looking for any insite that you may have...
Anything you guys would do or watch out for while prepping or racing the 2.4 liter?
I will be running the K24a2 in my car so i am just looking for any insite that you may have...
Anything you guys would do or watch out for while prepping or racing the 2.4 liter?





