Torque spec for crank pulley
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R you serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think your actually supose to torque it to 150 first.. and then loosen it to 130.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Pretty sure that only applies if you're using a new bolt.
Pretty sure that only applies if you're using a new bolt.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stoich »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wierd thing i noticed the N1 pulley has splines in the inside where it mounts to the crank yet the crank is smooth am i missing something?</TD></TR></TABLE>
As long as the woodruff key is there you are fine. The spiles on the pulley help with removal, later on down the line.
As long as the woodruff key is there you are fine. The spiles on the pulley help with removal, later on down the line.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pcguy760 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont understand how come we require like 500lb of torque to remove that crank bolt but only 130lb to put it in? That's wierd...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you for real? I guess it is the same reason that you torque a brake caliper mount bolt to 28 ft-lb and requires 80 ft-lbs or so to get it off.
Are you for real? I guess it is the same reason that you torque a brake caliper mount bolt to 28 ft-lb and requires 80 ft-lbs or so to get it off.
Yeah I don't really understand that. I mean only 130Lbs to put it in and then I hear of guys only being able to get it out with huge impact guns and stuff.
Yelling at it might work eh? lol.
Yelling at it might work eh? lol.
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