How many miles/kms do you on your forged pistons?!?
Sup all,
I would like to heard from those running forged pistons in their setups. I'm wondering about the longitivity of these forged internals when compared to oem. Whats the most miles/kms seen(track/daily driven)? Can I aspect 100 000kms? Holla all!
EDIT: fucked up title..."how many mile/kms do you "HAVE" on your forged pistons?"
I would like to heard from those running forged pistons in their setups. I'm wondering about the longitivity of these forged internals when compared to oem. Whats the most miles/kms seen(track/daily driven)? Can I aspect 100 000kms? Holla all!
EDIT: fucked up title..."how many mile/kms do you "HAVE" on your forged pistons?"
I got 40 K kms on mine, before disassembling the car. I do not think that there is a chance you'll see 100K kms in "no need for rebuild" shape, especially if you used looser tolerances to begin with.
One Canadian winter will own your motor. If you do not drive in the winter, cold startups will get you bit by bit ( you know how some days get here)
I hope you realize that you have built performance motor and not a daily driver. Most people that do forged internals do so for the power and not long term longevity, and mostly for one season anyway ( at insane boost levels) where they tear down and freshen up...
Also you do not just turn on the car an go with this, there is always a ritual involved...
On the other side I have built some NA motors as well with OEM pistons and one of them 11.7:1 comp has just crossed 100K kms and lived through 3 Canadian winters with no oil consumption, yet... but in short term this will never take the abuse that your forged pieces will.
Nino
One Canadian winter will own your motor. If you do not drive in the winter, cold startups will get you bit by bit ( you know how some days get here)
I hope you realize that you have built performance motor and not a daily driver. Most people that do forged internals do so for the power and not long term longevity, and mostly for one season anyway ( at insane boost levels) where they tear down and freshen up...
Also you do not just turn on the car an go with this, there is always a ritual involved...
On the other side I have built some NA motors as well with OEM pistons and one of them 11.7:1 comp has just crossed 100K kms and lived through 3 Canadian winters with no oil consumption, yet... but in short term this will never take the abuse that your forged pieces will.
Nino
I have heard that forged pistons will not last as long as oem however I would like to know the theory behind this? is it solely because of the looser tolerances to begin with? or is it the fact that motors that are built with forged internals are usually track cars that are see abuse on a more frequient bases?
I understand that people who build their motors with forged internals do so with performance in mind and not longivity however for "most" people, reliability and longivity is somewhat important.
I understand that people who build their motors with forged internals do so with performance in mind and not longivity however for "most" people, reliability and longivity is somewhat important.
It is the mix of both. Looser tolerances will create more forces acting on bore where tight fitting OEM piston will never do that. In this case it is aggregate effect over time.
Another thing is that forged pistons are EXTREMELY sensitive to tunning, if you over heat them once, and do not have enough clearence (they expand a lot compared to cast ones) bores are finished.
Room for error is much less, but if you operate within given tolerances they will work well, it is just that they are not as frindly in trial and error scenarios.
Not being OEM has other issues as well, I once lost a motor after 1000 km, forged internals, and the reason was that one of the c clips that held the piston pin in place popped out and destroyed piston/bore. Never had this happen before or since, but if this was OEM design it would be one less thing to worry about...
Average time spent at certain horspower level adds to it, but again OEM setup can do much more time on track than forged one if they are both for example b18c5 at 200 WHP. Difference is that you can have 500 WHP b18c5 on forged internals if you want ( which is going to last even less than 200 WHP forged setup because of stresses involved)
List goes on, and opinions differ. My opinion is that forged internals are very specific application with only one thing in mind, power handling capability.
Long term longevity is secondary issue and in some cases not even important.
Another thing is that forged pistons are EXTREMELY sensitive to tunning, if you over heat them once, and do not have enough clearence (they expand a lot compared to cast ones) bores are finished.
Room for error is much less, but if you operate within given tolerances they will work well, it is just that they are not as frindly in trial and error scenarios.
Not being OEM has other issues as well, I once lost a motor after 1000 km, forged internals, and the reason was that one of the c clips that held the piston pin in place popped out and destroyed piston/bore. Never had this happen before or since, but if this was OEM design it would be one less thing to worry about...
Average time spent at certain horspower level adds to it, but again OEM setup can do much more time on track than forged one if they are both for example b18c5 at 200 WHP. Difference is that you can have 500 WHP b18c5 on forged internals if you want ( which is going to last even less than 200 WHP forged setup because of stresses involved)
List goes on, and opinions differ. My opinion is that forged internals are very specific application with only one thing in mind, power handling capability.
Long term longevity is secondary issue and in some cases not even important.
I had about 50000 kms on a set of forged ENDYN/Wiseco pistons. The engine was raced every weekend, and the engine was all motor with an ITR transmission so revs were always up there. The engine threw a rod, but the pistons and cylinders were in great shape. I could foresee another healthy 20000-30000 km if the engine was still running.
Cold starts do kill the motor. Listen to my advice, you can't go wrong with a block heater!
I use mine basically all year long, maybe except for those 20-30deg C summer days. You save on gas too (and saving money even after minusing electrical costs), so I just don't get why most people don't think about using block heaters.
Cold starts do kill the motor. Listen to my advice, you can't go wrong with a block heater!
I use mine basically all year long, maybe except for those 20-30deg C summer days. You save on gas too (and saving money even after minusing electrical costs), so I just don't get why most people don't think about using block heaters.
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allnaturalb16
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Jan 15, 2007 06:01 PM




