This vehicle runs and drives fine, but I want to freshen it up a bit to run another 100k miles.

Right now I am considering taking it in to the shop for.

New fluids, belts, water pump, etc. Plugs, wires, distributor, rotor, have injectors cleaned and balanced, new fuel filter

New clutch (looking at exedy organic, and possibly a lightweight flywheel, what are the disadvantages of a lightweight flywheel?)

SMSP header, Apex WS exhaust, comptech high flow cat + 2 new 02 sensors

2 new Raxles Axles

New Rod bearings, mild head job, new rings, type S pistons (normal, not OB), and type s cams

Front strut tower bar, and rear sway bar, possibly new shocks but I don't want to lower the vehicle

My goal is to provide a reliable and quick weekend driver for long tours in the country on windy roads. Any input anyone has on this plan would be appreciated.

 

Sounds like a good set up.

Most people will tell you to convert from auto-tensioner to the manual one.

And all those mods and keeping it at stock height?

At least lower it a little with some springs.

A lighter fly wheel will bring up/down your revs quicker.

Also, don't forget some sticky tires, VAFC and tuning.

 

Thanks for the info. I didn't really want to lower it, I have already scraped the thing on some driveways and speed bumps.

I also can't seem to find any shocks/struts made for the SH.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by justint &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the info. I didn't really want to lower it, I have already scraped the thing on some driveways and speed bumps. </TD></TR></TABLE>

All that power on stock height will suck.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I also can't seem to find any shocks/struts made for the SH. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Koni, KYB AGX. Most shops and dealers say that it won't fit the SH because they don't know jack about the car. They hear rumors that it's a SH (ATTS) and immediately think nothing will it.

It will, just make sure you get the correct springs made for your car. The type SH has taller springs in the front.

The Koni + GC (Ground Control) combo is pretty popluar. If you have the money, go with Tein, D2, JIC, Zeal...etc

Just learn how to drive diagnally off driveways...etc

A little scraping won't hurt. I rather scrape than have the car look like a 4x4. Or at least get springs, Teins or something.

 

If your going to do the Type-S pistons, get the .25 oversized and get it bored and re-honed to the proper specs per Honda. You would want to re-hone at least for the new pistons, so you might as well get the slightly bigger pistons to match it.

Why not go with some stage II cams (Crower!) if your going to replace the cams anyway? Not much more cost, but much more power improvement, especially if you go with an SMSP header/cat combination.

If your Axles are still good, don't bother replacing them, same with your O2 sensors, nothing to gain there.

If your going to do rod bearings, you might just as well do all the mains at the same time, no reason not to, your already there completely tore down.

And, get a VAFC, or something to tune it, you'll need that for sure.

 

Do you think a bored out block with the oversize pistons would be reliable?

 

Absolutely, I have over 25k on mine now, rebuilt at 141k. They are Honda Pistons, all they are is a little bigger.

 

you dont need to bore the block. Just rehone it then run the standard size type s pistons. Once you bore it out thats it. There is no going back unless you resleeve. In the event you have some crazy ring failure, your *** is already against the wall, its new sleeve time after that.


I suggest doing all the regular stuff. double check the timing belt for wear, oil pump, water pump, all normal rubber gaskets, etc..

If it aint broke dont fix it. If the car is running great after 145K miles not burning alot of oil or anything, why even bother taking the whole motor apart? You should be able to hit 200K + miles no prob as long as you dont treat it like a race car You treat it like its a race car, it will act like a race car. you may get it apart to learn that the builder made a slight error and now your block is scrap. Just leave it as it. Maybe check the main bearings worst case. If you got solid CV boots and the stock axles are fine, then why replace?