Question About Bushings
It seems that Im in need of some new bushings due to my car swaying noticeably in cornering and its really freaking annoying. I took it to the mechanics and he looked at it and said I could do with a new setup.
So not knowing much about bushing I thought I would ask here since there are many people who have replaced them etc. Just wondering what the main benefits to getting an aftermarket setup like Energy Suspension is to over factory. Does it make such a huge difference that I should spend the extra money on getting them?
This is for a daily driver, with Tokico Blues and Ground Control coilovers if that matters. Any experience or advice would be appriciated.
Thanks
CRX Forum
So not knowing much about bushing I thought I would ask here since there are many people who have replaced them etc. Just wondering what the main benefits to getting an aftermarket setup like Energy Suspension is to over factory. Does it make such a huge difference that I should spend the extra money on getting them?
This is for a daily driver, with Tokico Blues and Ground Control coilovers if that matters. Any experience or advice would be appriciated.
Thanks
CRX Forum
well i had the ES motor mount bushings on my EG. the mount and shift linkage bushings complete. they are really nice and hold that motor very nicely, doesn't move at all. my buddy brian turbob18si has em on his LCAs front and back with Spoon hard busings on the struts, lol lots of stiff bushings on his car and is really nice and stiff, but it does cause a little more vibration inside the car. causes the car to vibrate more than the suspension or motor. just my 2 cents
I like mine but I never drove the car before I put them on. HOwever they have become really noisy. Like when I turn, they creak, when my passengers or I ever get in or out of the car, it creaks, etc. Oh well I guess I don't really care.
I have the Energy kit, you will need to buy rear UCA, trailing arm and rear sway bar bushings seperate.
if you have another car you can drive for a few days it will make youR life easier
if you dont, plan on not driving for a weekend
you NEED a 20 ton press, a case of PB blaster, and a can of multi purpose grease
take the all the control arms off the car and soak them in PB for a day. Take a shallow pan and empty the cans of PB into it and let the LCA's sit. if you dont do this buy a gun and end yourself. now its the next day and time to push them bitches out, you will waste an hour finding something that will only push on the sleeve and not the arm. once you muscle those out its time for the new ones. COVER the poly bushings in grease and use channel locks to squeese them in. use little peices of cardboard so you dont tear the bushings. the front UCA bushings need to be put in a certain direction. follow the included inst. for this.
upper shock and steering rack bushings are also included but that is a simple R&R, no brainer(i hope) dont bother with the tie rod and ball joint boots, i realy dont see the purpose. if you have a b-series you will need to buy the shifter bushings seperate because the kit included is for a D-series.
its a very simple process that takes a LOT of time. Use plenty of grease with the new bushings and the squeaking isnt too bad. most of the noise comes from the upper shock bushings. about once a week i use CRC power lube and spray the top hats with it.
i have tokico blues and tein s-tech's on my hatch. with just the new bushings (no rear sway bar) there is way less understeer. wheel hop was reduced greatly(i think new susp bushings help more than solid engine mounts) and steering is amazingly responsive.
i hope that helps
its def worth all the time you will put into it, if you have anymore ??'s PM me.
if you have another car you can drive for a few days it will make youR life easier
if you dont, plan on not driving for a weekend
you NEED a 20 ton press, a case of PB blaster, and a can of multi purpose grease
take the all the control arms off the car and soak them in PB for a day. Take a shallow pan and empty the cans of PB into it and let the LCA's sit. if you dont do this buy a gun and end yourself. now its the next day and time to push them bitches out, you will waste an hour finding something that will only push on the sleeve and not the arm. once you muscle those out its time for the new ones. COVER the poly bushings in grease and use channel locks to squeese them in. use little peices of cardboard so you dont tear the bushings. the front UCA bushings need to be put in a certain direction. follow the included inst. for this.
upper shock and steering rack bushings are also included but that is a simple R&R, no brainer(i hope) dont bother with the tie rod and ball joint boots, i realy dont see the purpose. if you have a b-series you will need to buy the shifter bushings seperate because the kit included is for a D-series.
its a very simple process that takes a LOT of time. Use plenty of grease with the new bushings and the squeaking isnt too bad. most of the noise comes from the upper shock bushings. about once a week i use CRC power lube and spray the top hats with it.
i have tokico blues and tein s-tech's on my hatch. with just the new bushings (no rear sway bar) there is way less understeer. wheel hop was reduced greatly(i think new susp bushings help more than solid engine mounts) and steering is amazingly responsive.
i hope that helps
its def worth all the time you will put into it, if you have anymore ??'s PM me.
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