*EDIT*

Special thanx to INVALID for PMing me and giving a step by step process.

Ok I have a wrecked 94 ex coupe and have the full doors etc. I am looking into putting these on my 93 SI hatch. I am curious if its easier to just swap the whole doors over because they are both Millano red and would like the easiest way possible to do this.


Modified by cnyej1 at 3:04 AM 4/24/2005

 

I already started in so here it is out of PM:

Beforehand
If you've never removed the door harnesses or anything before set yourself a good 3 hours time to pull everything. To make this swap as easy and plug as play as possible, do this:
Remove both front fenders, door panels, seats, lower console (where cigarette lighter is), and carpet before you start really getting into things.


Now for everything that you will want to use from power windows to door locks.

<u>We'll start with power windows:</u>

roll the windows down all the way then tap the window control UP about twice for about two seconds, it will leave the regulator in the perfect spot to unbolt the window from the regulator. It's two 10mm bolts, once those are removed, hold your hand on the top part of the window glass and slowly roll the window all the way back down. From there, remove the window glass, remove the glass bringing it in TOWARDS the interior of the car. Once removed, there will be just the regulator that you'll have to remove, there are 3 bolts all 10mm around the exact middle of the door, once those are removed the regulator will be loose enough to allow you to be able to slide it down or up, either into the larger openings for the bolts to be able to be removed with the regulator or you can just remove the bolts full, hold on to them and just remove the regulator.

Once done on to removing wiring (considering both fenders have been removed):

Once you have the fenders off, you'll see a black plug that connects into the door, remove this plug from the body of the car, with a phillips screwdriver. You'll also need a phillips to remove the harness from the door. It's stabilized right at the door by a orange looking sometimes clear connector piece.

Then, considering carpet and seats are out

You will have wanted to remove BOTH door harnesses before hand, that way you can just pull the interior floor harness down on the passenger side of the dash because with the ECU right there there isn't much room to operate so you're going to want to have the harness unplugged so you can give it a slight tug so it will fall down after you've pushed it in a little bit from the exterior of the car where the fender WAS (of course you can unplug and remove the ECU) .

Now, with all the carpetting cleaned out of the car, if you look near the lever for the gas cap and the trunk you'll see a black plastic piece covering up a bunch of wiring. This is the floor wire harness, you'll want to follow this all the way around the car, it goes all the way around the interior body of the car **** you can cut the wires near the start of the back seat, but you'll have to do splicing and wiring later**** back up to the passenger side where the other connector is near the fender. It starts right where the DRIVER side door harness started AT THE FENDER, this wiring plugs into the main relay, the auto cruise, and two other harnesses that I have no defined at this point. Only three plugs come from the fuse box and extend out into this floor wiring harness. One with a blue connector, then two green connectors. At this time you will also want to remove the power window relay, it's one of the only black rectangular relays plugged into the FRONT of the fuse box. It's near the left hand side of the fuse box, right near the left hand side top edge.

For what some of the items look like that you will be pulling refer to Cuong-Nutz post:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1065575

<U>Power lock actuators are not pictured but here is the easiest method I have to removing them.</U>

With the door panel already off, you should be able to look at the exterior handle from the inside part of the door, there will be two visible 10mm bolts there that will need to be removed. Once removed, you will be able to remove the exterior handle in and out a little, but it is still attached due to the rods attached to the power lock actuators. Here is where I may lose others without pictures or a HELMS manual. PAY ATTENTION AND READ TWICE Well the the portion where the key is actually inserted into the door, holding that to the handle will be a a metal retaining clip, much like the one that holds the door handle on. Once that retaining clips is removed, the piece where you insert your key will be able to be removed at this point.

DON'T DO ANYTHING ELSE AT THIS POINT WITH ANYTHING NEAR THE OUTER HANDLE!

With the door open use an oversized phillips head screwdriver to go down and remove the 3 screws from the door, these are holding up the power lock actuators in place. Once the 3 screws are removed it will give the OUTER DOOR handle more FREE play, at this point you twist the outer door handle so it will slowly unscrew the rod from outer door handle. With the outer door handle removed, you can go to the INTERIOR door handle and remove the two screws holding that in place and lift out the power lock actuators and the remaining rods from the door.


EDIT: don't forget, for some model hatches there is a rear wiper that the coupe doesn't have so it's either going to become useless or wired improperly if you don't first look to find which wires are similar between the two models for the reverse lights, taillights, and corners.


Modified by INVALID at 3:22 AM 4/24/2005

 

Mods should sticky this up in the Faq