B16 OVERHEATING??? HELP! WHINING FUEL PUMP TOO
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 11,129
Likes: 36
From: GO AUTOWORKS DOT COM
I have done the search, but none had the exact sympoms as mine.
I took my car out this morning after fixing the IACV, and it began to overheat after about 20 min of driving. I came home and checked the radiator coolant and it was low, so I topped it off, let it run, and repeated. I noticed that my upper radiator hose gets hot, but my lower feels like theres nothing in it. It isn't even luke warm. Could this be a faulty thermostat also?
The car runs fine, idles fine, just overheats. Also my Walbro 255 pump wines extremely loud. Is this normal, I have never used an aftermarket pump. The whining is irritating, and loudest by the rr quarter panel.
I took my car out this morning after fixing the IACV, and it began to overheat after about 20 min of driving. I came home and checked the radiator coolant and it was low, so I topped it off, let it run, and repeated. I noticed that my upper radiator hose gets hot, but my lower feels like theres nothing in it. It isn't even luke warm. Could this be a faulty thermostat also?
The car runs fine, idles fine, just overheats. Also my Walbro 255 pump wines extremely loud. Is this normal, I have never used an aftermarket pump. The whining is irritating, and loudest by the rr quarter panel.
yeah that fuel pump whine is pretty normal.. unless its like a grinding sound or something. if its just whiring then it means its working.. heh..
as for your overheating problem, there is a little bleeder screw where the upper radiator hose connects to the head.. you might try opening that up and pouring more antifreeze in when your car is off. that will help get the air out of the system. another idea is to make sure your thermostat is functioning properly by putting it in a pot of boiling water and see if it opens up or not. you can also just run it without the thermosstat, but if you live somwhere cold, it might not be a good idea to do that year round.. but try those things first..
as for your overheating problem, there is a little bleeder screw where the upper radiator hose connects to the head.. you might try opening that up and pouring more antifreeze in when your car is off. that will help get the air out of the system. another idea is to make sure your thermostat is functioning properly by putting it in a pot of boiling water and see if it opens up or not. you can also just run it without the thermosstat, but if you live somwhere cold, it might not be a good idea to do that year round.. but try those things first..
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 11,129
Likes: 36
From: GO AUTOWORKS DOT COM
I just gotr back in. My car idled for the past hour. Before starting, I took out the bleeder screw and it was bone dry, so I figured there had to not be enough coolant. Even though I topped the radiator off 3 different times. I opened the rad. cap again, and its low so I add 3 more Taco Bell cups (it was convenient and easy to mix with) with the screw out. I then let the car run while I installed some hedlights in a guys Accord. I checked on mine frequently and it never got hot during idle. After I finished the install I turned my car off. The rad. fluid was a little low. I then checked the valve and now fluid was flowing out like it should when its loose and the lower radiator hose was also warm. So I think the problem is fixed (I have not driven it yet, but everything appears OK.
Thanks for the help so far
Thanks for the help so far
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 11,129
Likes: 36
From: GO AUTOWORKS DOT COM
Also the pump, its just whining. Maybe its so loud because there is no rear interior, but its loud outside the car too.
Those walbro pumps tend to be louder than stock, so the sound you describe seems to be normal.
Hopefully you got your problem with the overheating figured out. Good luck
Hopefully you got your problem with the overheating figured out. Good luck
get a fail safe theromstat from autozone. the type the sticks open when it fails, so youll notice the car takes forever to warm up, rather then overheating. its still not good for the engine when it fails, but you wont get stuck on the side of the road one day...
also make sure your fan is coming on, if its not check the relay behind the passenger headlight, and on a b16a the fan switch is a large 2 PIN connector on the back of the block, next to the oil filter, above the alternator. it uses a 27mm socket to remove.
just replaced mine today, actually, since i had to put the heat on to compensate for the fan not coming on, and it wasnt cold out the past few days.
autozone has that fan switch too, called "coolant fan swtich" in their computer, ask for a 1990 integra.
or to ghetto it jump the blue wire from the fan to ground, and it will come on with the key, but thats not the best solution.
other then that,next step is to fully flush the coolant system and then see if your still losing collant. prolonged problems beyond that would be headgasket related, and did you put a new water pump on when you did your swap? you can alos lose coolant down there.
do you ever find any underneath the car or do you think the engine is burning it off? that would also be a good indication.
all thsoe things affect the coolant system for the b16. they run pretty hot as is, so its important to stay on top of things.
g/l
also make sure your fan is coming on, if its not check the relay behind the passenger headlight, and on a b16a the fan switch is a large 2 PIN connector on the back of the block, next to the oil filter, above the alternator. it uses a 27mm socket to remove.
just replaced mine today, actually, since i had to put the heat on to compensate for the fan not coming on, and it wasnt cold out the past few days.

autozone has that fan switch too, called "coolant fan swtich" in their computer, ask for a 1990 integra.
or to ghetto it jump the blue wire from the fan to ground, and it will come on with the key, but thats not the best solution.
other then that,next step is to fully flush the coolant system and then see if your still losing collant. prolonged problems beyond that would be headgasket related, and did you put a new water pump on when you did your swap? you can alos lose coolant down there.
do you ever find any underneath the car or do you think the engine is burning it off? that would also be a good indication.
all thsoe things affect the coolant system for the b16. they run pretty hot as is, so its important to stay on top of things.
g/l
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 11,129
Likes: 36
From: GO AUTOWORKS DOT COM
Thanks,
The fan works fine.
I've had the car back for one day now. I haven't driven it since I "fixed" the prob. But I feel as though it should be fixed, just because it did just as the manual decsribed by overflowing thru the bleeder screw, and the screw was bone dry before. I'm guessing it had to be at least 1/2 gallon low.
Not to mention when it overheated a CEL came up. I checked it, showed #7 which is the TPS. Now that could be due to the overheating, or it could be actually the TPS (I have a 62mm BBK TB). I unplugged the ECU and plugged it back up and the CEL went away, so matbe it wsa a fluke, I'll know when I drive it tomorrow. I just have to work these bugs out so I can drive it to my shop Monday and replace the master cylindar (brakes locked up on 2nd est drive, but now work fine. I can warranty the cyl. for free)
I appreciate all the help, any more suggestions, keep em' coming
The fan works fine.
I've had the car back for one day now. I haven't driven it since I "fixed" the prob. But I feel as though it should be fixed, just because it did just as the manual decsribed by overflowing thru the bleeder screw, and the screw was bone dry before. I'm guessing it had to be at least 1/2 gallon low.
Not to mention when it overheated a CEL came up. I checked it, showed #7 which is the TPS. Now that could be due to the overheating, or it could be actually the TPS (I have a 62mm BBK TB). I unplugged the ECU and plugged it back up and the CEL went away, so matbe it wsa a fluke, I'll know when I drive it tomorrow. I just have to work these bugs out so I can drive it to my shop Monday and replace the master cylindar (brakes locked up on 2nd est drive, but now work fine. I can warranty the cyl. for free)
I appreciate all the help, any more suggestions, keep em' coming
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 11,129
Likes: 36
From: GO AUTOWORKS DOT COM
Oh yeah, the pump is the loudest thing in the car. It sonds like a mosquito is sitting on you ear lobe flapping away.
I guess I'll get used to it...or put a radio in the car one
I guess I'll get used to it...or put a radio in the car one
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 11,129
Likes: 36
From: GO AUTOWORKS DOT COM
Well, new day, new problems. The car won't start. It just spins fast, so I think the starter is gone on it. May have been from the coolant getting on it yesturday. This is starting to get a bit irritating
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Taylorej1-93
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
8
Jun 10, 2013 08:53 AM
Autoworks
Hybrid / Engine Swaps
10
Apr 26, 2005 03:43 AM
crxtreme27
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
7
Jun 26, 2003 11:14 AM




