What the topic says...its actually a JDM kit in a CTR....any help welcome.

Would an inline pro or revhard bolt back up? I can get more pics if needed...

 

huh? JDM?

WTF??

 

subscribed to hear flames and jokes

 

dude, its a manifold, find a replacement that fits, you have many options, it's a b-series.

 

just because its on a CTR doesnt make it JDM bro, as far as i know the honly turbo factory honda is the HONDA CITY.

and yeah it may be made in japan but **** it aint JDM for a civic bro,

like stated above, go find you another manifold that is for any B series that is similar to yors that has the parts you need.

just curious, who makes that JDM manifold?

 

How about rewelding it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dustin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How about rewelding it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

it's real JDM
ssautochromegoku

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dustin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How about rewelding it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That would cost a lot in shipping. He has to send it all the way back to Japan to get it welded. JDM welding isn't cheap either. I say scrap it out and deal with the downgraded manifold and loss of JDM baller status by purchasing an inferior yet functional USDM version.

 

Did any of you guys notice that he is from Barbados? And his kit might actually be from a japanese shop?

to those that don't bother looking into the problem and just bash.

Fled: Unless you can figure out the exact place that manifold came from... you should just reweld it. Its pretty doubtful that you'll find another manifold that will take its place. Unless you are willing to redo piping....

 

it's real JDM
ssautochromegoku


thats too funny ahahhahahaha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FRANK_WHITE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's real JDM
ssautochromegoku


thats too funny ahahhahahaha</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol

Fled: Where did the manifold crack?

Sonny

 

looks like an SSAC to me.

Just reweld it back up.

BTW, not to bash, but SSAC is in NC, USA or something like that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92civicb18b1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks like an SSAC to me.

Just reweld it back up.

BTW, not to bash, but SSAC is in NC, USA or something like that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, an angled manifold flanged for (what looks to be) a T25 that's mounted on an angle, that doesn't have an external wastegate, and isn't made of the cheap **** shiney steel looks a lot like the SSAC mani

 

jdm..... wow

 

Holy crap... you people are useless... at least Dustin gave some usefull info...

 

You cant really see where it cracked from the picture, but for a cost effective fix, Just re-weld it. It doesn't appear to be ssac, no wastegate flange, not nasty looking copper colored piping. And like mentioned, by replacing the manifold, you will have to retro-fit piping to work. to much of a hassle. Just get it welded.

 

That's not a SSAC manifold anyways.

 

Sorry...let me clear things up a bit...its a Top Fuel mani...and it is a real CTR



...from Japan, and yes I do live in Barbados, which makes all of our Japanese vehicles right hand drive JDM spec.

What I really wanted to know is if there is a US made mani like that thats a direct swap...its my friends CTR which he bought online and came turbocharged to his surprise. The pic was from before....it was not cracked then...i just posted it to give you guys an idea of what it looked like.

I suspected he would have to re-do the IC piping to fit a US mani....but what I am unsure of is the turbo bolt up...sorry i dont have any closer pics of the mani...but its a greddy/trust turbo setup....

THe mani originally had a hairline crack, we re-welded it...and now it just let go completely @ the collector..its fucked. I guess he'll have to get another make mani and redo his piping

 

any b series mani will bolt up, even if you do have to push and pull alil its not that hard bro

any more info on the car would nice

good luck with it man

 

That looks like a 1st gen Top Fuel mani for their T25 setup. It, like a lot of their 1st gen mani's, are notorious for cracking. Reweld the crack and then add a brace that connects the mani flange or dp flange to the stock manifold brace point on the block. If you are not using a flex pipe in your dp now would be a good time to add one.

How was the previous repair done? MIG, TIG or stick welded?

If you change the mani you might as well get a more efficient turbo and external wg since the JDM stuff is pretty outrageous. At least step up to an internally wastegated T3 so the motor will be able to breathe. The turbo you are currently using is the bottom of the line HKS T25 mated to a TF stainless mani. If you want to stick with TF stuff I will see if I can locate a 2nd gen mani that uses higher grade piping.

To the JDM hater crew - look at my location before you get your pampers lumpy

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fled &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I suspected he would have to re-do the IC piping to fit a US mani....but what I am unsure of is the turbo bolt up...sorry i dont have any closer pics of the mani...but its a greddy/trust turbo setup....</TD></TR></TABLE>

bro, there is no "US manifold" that we all use. any manifold will fit a bit different, it doesn't matter where it was made. you have 3 options, buy a new Top Fuel manifold, fix yours, or get a different manifold (possibly a "US" manifold) and redo the dp and chargepipes.

 

No wonder my CTR with the stage 1 turbo kit is so slow in GT4.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ndogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bro, there is no "US manifold" that we all use. any manifold will fit a bit different, it doesn't matter where it was made. you have 3 options, buy a new Top Fuel manifold, fix yours, or get a different manifold (possibly a "US" manifold) and redo the dp and chargepipes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know theres not one "US manifold" you guys all use, I am not that ignorant! What I meant to tactfully ask is if there are any US knockoff manifolds of the Top Fuel my friend could use....SSAC need not apply.

Anyhows...Dee that info was first grade....thanks a mil. Im sure my friend will be able to make an informed decision when I refer him to this post.

lalspeed...the rest of the setup is pretty simple...Power FC w/ controller, Greddy Type R BOV, boost guage, and what we suspect is a thicker headgasket dropping the CR a tad...aside from that it "seems" to be a stock B16B (hope thats the right engine code). Like I said, all my buddy wanted was a stock CTR, and he got this.

As for the previous welding...it was mig welded...so didnt hold long. He's got to spend some $$ or sell the car. I suspect he will do the latter because he's more of a plug and play driver, not much of a tear-down-and-rebuild guy.

OT: But the car is no slouch...its cut its stock axles clean in half...and its walked on stock EVO's, Pulsar GTI-R's, an R33 Skyline GTS-T and a stock R32 GTR. He's not after more power...so I dont suspect Cody or Geoff will be getting a call from him anytime soon.

Dee your ride is crazy man...tell me...I am contemplating sticking 4 - 60mm greddy gauges to my dash, kina like what you did, instead of on the pillar. Does the adhesive that comes with the gauges do the job or did u have to eventually use some other stuff to keep them down? And what is hell is in the silver sealed package that comes with the gauges? I cant read a lick of Japanese, and I suspect its somthing that should not be opened until I am ready to install. Thanks.

 

Instead of going for the DISCO light show of multiple gauges I am using a single Defi display for my EGT, boost, water, temp, oil temp and oil psi readings.

I used the double stick tape for body kits and reflectors to mont my gauges. Just make sure you clean the dash really good before doing the install. Remove protectants like Armor All and STP from the mounting area or the gauges while fall off in a couple days. I think the item in the silver package is for cleaning the mounting area. I used some wacky cleaning material that a japanese friend gave me and it worked like charm. You should be able to download english manuals for the gauges from Greddy USA (don't quote me on that one).

TF actually uses rebadged and/or upgraded HKS and Greddy turbo kits. Their orginal KKK K26 (K3T) kit was a rebadged Blitz kit and all of the cast manifold T25, TD05 kits are rebdaged kits with minimal add-ons so the TF moniker can be added. The TF Stainless manifold are made in house but the turbos are normally "off the shelf" items.

The K3T would be a nice upgrade because it has been proven to prduce 450whp with ease. The 2nd gen wg kits use a high mount external wg manifold instead of the crack prone low mount wg mani from the orginal kit. The mani, turbo, wg, dp and pipining can sometimes be found for less than $1000 on Yahoo japan.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dustin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No wonder my CTR with the stage 1 turbo kit is so slow in GT4.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hahahha

that is awsome, someone sold him a ctr w/o MENTIONING that it was turbo? schweeet!