The Spec VR (f) and GT sports (r) are Incredible!
after bedding them like the card said, I could not get over how well this pads stop the car!!! Simply Awesome!
I can't wait to see how they work on the track.

Would anyone know how much shorter the caR stops with these pads, ate blue and SS lines? It's gotta be a considerable amount.

Andie and Crew at CobaltFriction yet again get a BIG from me.

 

rob, try braking with R comps and those pads....even better

<--just got his in from migs today

 

That's what I ment when I said "<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can't wait to see how they work on the track.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I will not even tho very tempted to try the RA1 on the street, I pormised Migs that they are for Expo only

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nishant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">rob, try braking with R comps and those pads....even better </TD></TR></TABLE>

My thoughts exactly

Been running that setup with A032Rs for 2 years and can not imagine anything better. Just make sure you ease on the brakes on the track (not slam the pedal down). I've had problems with the pads cracking/chipping, but thats been fixed with the help of a less aggressive initial pedal effort!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's what I ment when I said "

I will not even tho very tempted to try the RA1 on the street, I pormised Migs that they are for Expo only </TD></TR></TABLE>

i'd run them on a street once just so they are not squiggly at the track. plus right now its full tread so thats not a big deal

 

good tip, thanks

 

I plan on switching from street setup to Track rims/tires in Chicago on the way to Expo to break them in.

Does anyone think that's a bad idea?

 

something i found out at the track, VR Specs are a bit much for street tires. You won't get its full capability. My abs kept kicking in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I plan on switching from street setup to Track rims/tires in Chicago on the way to Expo to break them in.

Does anyone think that's a bad idea? </TD></TR></TABLE>

isn't it a long drive for a break in? i was thinking drive around with them for a couple days. put maybe 100 miles

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would anyone know how much shorter the caR stops with these pads, ate blue and SS lines? It's gotta be a considerable amount. </TD></TR></TABLE>

None of those things stop the car, the tires do. Better pads, lines, and fluids only help modulation, feel, and fade resistance, not stopping distance.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just make sure you ease on the brakes on the track (not slam the pedal down). I've had problems with the pads cracking/chipping, but thats been fixed with the help of a less aggressive initial pedal effort!</TD></TR></TABLE>
not to mention r comounds are dam pricey to replace once you flat spot/cord one.

 

Spec VRs will chew up rotors fairly quickly, there's probably a better pad available for daily driving. I've never had problems stopping RIGHT NOW with GT-Sports on the R or hatch. And as Dr. Poo said, tires are the real thing that does the stopping. R-comps aren't necessary by any means, but if you're running crappy all-seasons, you'll be able to lock them up easily with either of those pads (take my word for it ).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sscguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Spec VRs will chew up rotors fairly quickly, there's probably a better pad available for daily driving. I've never had problems stopping RIGHT NOW with GT-Sports on the R or hatch. And as Dr. Poo said, tires are the real thing that does the stopping. R-comps aren't necessary by any means, but if you're running crappy all-seasons, you'll be able to lock them up easily with either of those pads (take my word for it ).</TD></TR></TABLE>

i was locking up my S02's Spec Vr's did eat my OEM rotors. I bought the G3000 that andie sells and they work very nicely. I do a swap at every track event. I have oem rotors and pads for street, then spec vr's and g3000 for the track. It works well

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nishant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I do a swap at every track event. I have oem rotors and pads for street, then spec vr's and g3000 for the track. It works well
</TD></TR></TABLE>
As do I.
Having the pads on for track and street use is fine... but I prefer to inspect my front suspension and give things a good look over (flush brake fluid) when I swap pads before and after an event.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nishant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have oem rotors and pads for street, then spec vr's and g3000 for the track. It works well </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's the way to do it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nishant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">something i found out at the track, VR Specs are a bit much for street tires. You won't get its full capability. My abs kept kicking in. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The tyres will definitely be the limiting factor with the Spec VR. Although Spec VR last a long, long time, they are full race pads are are being used by friends in Honda Challenge, Grand Am and a TV world championship series with great results.

With Spec VR on a car that weighs about what the ITR weighs, with endurance brake fluid, and with the ITR's braking system, you have basically maxed out the possibilities.

How fast you stop is now entirely contingent on your tyre budget. You'll stop faster with RA-1, and even faster with Hoosiers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R you serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
not to mention r comounds are dam pricey to replace once you flat spot/cord one.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yet <u>another</u> reason to leave the ABS alone and let it do its job.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I plan on switching from street setup to Track rims/tires in Chicago on the way to Expo to break them in.

Does anyone think that's a bad idea? </TD></TR></TABLE>

You're referring to heat cycling new tires. You can pay places like the Tire Rack (~$15/tire) for this service, or you can do it yourself (which makes a lot more sense to me). To heat cycle tires, drive them for 15-20 miles at normal highway speeds, then swap them off the car and let them sit for a couple of days. That's all there is to it.

As noted on the Tire Rack website:

"The first time a competition tire is used is the most important. During that run, its tread compound is stretched, some of the weaker bonds between the rubber molecules will be broken (which generates some of the heat). If the tires are initially run too hard or too long, some of the stronger bonds will also be broken which will reduces the tire's grip and wear qualities. Running new tires through an easy heat cycle first, and allowing them to relax allows the rubber bonds to relink in a more uniform manner than they were originally manufactured. It actually makes them more consistent in strength and more resistant to loosing their strength the next time they are used. An important heat cycling step is that after being brought up to temperature, the tires require a minimum of 24 to 48 hours to relax and reform the bonds between their rubber molecules."

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The Spec VR (f) and GT sports (r) are Incredible!
after bedding them like the card said, I could not get over how well this pads stop the car!!! Simply Awesome!
I can't wait to see how they work on the track.

Would anyone know how much shorter the caR stops with these pads, ate blue and SS lines? It's gotta be a considerable amount.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The big advantage of these pads is not shorter stopping distances (which, as noted above, depends more on your tires). The big advantage is that they hold up better to track use (or aggressive street use) by keeping their great stopping power even when they get hot.

I love my GT Sport pads...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> To heat cycle tires, drive them for 15-20 miles at normal highway speeds, then swap them off the car and let them sit for a couple of days. That's all there is to it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I guess I'll be doing that this week. thanks.
for everyone else:
As for the pads and them stopping the car in a shorter distance... It was meant to express my feelings on them, not to be taken so literally. I know the tires are a limiting force, I was able to feel the ABS kick in a few times

 

Damn I want to try some Spec VR and GT sports, but my brake pad funds are limited at the present time.